911vet

KC911 : If all you were doing was bleeding, then the dry method could work. But I was flushing the system so it wouldn't make sense to reopen the system and repressurize 6 or 8 times. I put through over 2L of fluid and the reservoir probably holds 250-300ml??? I would have introduced a lot of air that way.

KC911

No problemo Dan, both ways work VERY well, and imo it's just a personal preference thing. FWIW, I only have to add fluid a couple of times during the bleeding process, and from my perspective, that's a lot less of a PITA than cleaning out the Mitive when I'm finished. I didn't really want to argue on Al Gore's Internet, but when you stated that using a Motive dry was "sure to have air in the system", I just had too

Keith
'88 CE coupe

MDL

No problem Keith, The fact that you own an 88 Coupe shows you are a man of great integrity and wisdom.

911vet

That's right, if you can't have a Cabriolet then a Coupe is the next best thing
And, by the way, we aren't arguing - we are discussing. Which is the coolest thing about Rennlist.

This is the source of all wisdom for me. I value all of the opinions here, because just about everyone here knows more than I do. And no one knows everything.

So... the new brake fluid is on the way. I will re-bleed in the correct order this time... and I'll report back to y'all after my first ever DE at Mid Ohio in 2wks. Wish me luck and hope the brakes work

MDL

What! you own a Cab?...That changes everything.

911vet

Yes, but it has a roll bar.

KC911

Yes indeedy...you should pump your brakes with every ounce of strength you have in your left leg since you have a cab . And Shannon (I missed your post earlier), I concur with filling the Motive for a flush & bleed, as that is the path of least resistance and and most painless imo. I was just trying to point out that using the "dry" method properly will not automatically introduce air into the system...one thing is for sure, the Motive is great and works both ways. Thanks all!

Keith
'88 CE coupe

911vet

In reality, being a Cabrioletist and therefore a fearless open-racer driver, I don't really use my brakes much. I probably don't even need to bleed them. The Coupe drivers behind me always ask if my brake lights work

MDL

I found my old thread on this issue but I can't seem to cut and paste it here. Anyway if you search posts by MDL and look for "Brake Bleeding Problem" ( I think it's on page 9) dated 10-8-06 you will find some good info there. Hope this helps...

Dan.

MDL

Oh Brother...

old man neri

Link.

911vet

MDL and old man neri: thanks for the link, I read the info and it's helpful. I will do the hammer tap on the calipers and lines which is something I didn't do. I know the lines had to be filled with air because I installed new ones (all the flexi and some hard lines). Wish me luck.

deep_uv

Both wet and dry methods will work. Dry requires more care with a G50 car. Run the reservior too low and introduce air into the clutch circuit as the pickup for the clutch circuit is mid height in the reservior where as the brake circuit is at the bottom. When you bleed the clutch slave, it's nice to have that extra cushion of fluid when you're struggling to get the clutch slave bleeder to close. With the pre-G50 cars, dry is just a PITA as the reservior is so small it still requires lots of re-filling and re-pumping.

The 5 minutes it takes to clean up afterwards, far outweighs the hassle of lengthening the whole process, IMHO.

But, to each his own, both methods will work.

MDL

HMMMM, if you examine the photo you will notice the white COUPE (me) WAAAAY ahead of numerious cabs (I count 3) WAAAY in the background...I'm just say'n...


Any luck with the brake bleeding?

Peter Zimmermann

Just caught up with this thread, and yes, the bleed order is very important. I'm afraid that I can't offer much help with the bleeder that can be used wet or dry; my shop used a bleeder that held about three gallons, maybe more, of fluid (it was used almost every day!), and that thing was older than dirt. I think that it was made by a company called Branick or something similar. We just plugged the reservoir overflow, replaced the reservoir cap with the machine's cap, put a few psi into the machine and went to work. I can see how the "dry" method, even with a machine, could be satisfactory. After all, that's the same as using the "pump it up," and "hold it" method that is very effective when doing a single caliper repair on a car with known history. Shannon, keep an eye on the reservoir after re-bleeding, if the "crud" returns the m/cyl might be coming apart internally.