The Carrera oil cooler
#1
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Now this is where you start throwing eggs....
I was looking at the scratch Big-O tires put in my rim last weekend and started thinking about the "Carrera oil cooler" that is project #26 in that 101 projects book. (I've only had my car about 18 months and only driven it 19,000 miles in that time.) I was curious about where and how it is done. I looked under the right front fender and was confused. I poked around and was shocked at what I found. That don't look like a trombone cooler in there as expected. Is it really what it looks like? I stuck my hand in further and shure thing it has fins like a fan but don't spin like a fan. A little push and I had a fan that spun half way around. Still won't go all the way around, but it's a start. I really thought I had a trombone under there. Now I just gotta get the fan to work...Who knew? ...and why didn't you tell me?
I was looking at the scratch Big-O tires put in my rim last weekend and started thinking about the "Carrera oil cooler" that is project #26 in that 101 projects book. (I've only had my car about 18 months and only driven it 19,000 miles in that time.) I was curious about where and how it is done. I looked under the right front fender and was confused. I poked around and was shocked at what I found. That don't look like a trombone cooler in there as expected. Is it really what it looks like? I stuck my hand in further and shure thing it has fins like a fan but don't spin like a fan. A little push and I had a fan that spun half way around. Still won't go all the way around, but it's a start. I really thought I had a trombone under there. Now I just gotta get the fan to work...Who knew? ...and why didn't you tell me?
#2
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an internal short. It blew a fuse when the heat actuated switch closed. So I removed the OEM and fitted a Spal fan with a manual switch & relay instead.
I confirmed the short when I took it in for a rebuild. The plastic supports for the armatures were melted. Not rebuildable with that condition. The Spal fan was a cheaper route anyway.![thumbup](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/thumbup.gif)
Hopefully yours is still functioning properly.
I confirmed the short when I took it in for a rebuild. The plastic supports for the armatures were melted. Not rebuildable with that condition. The Spal fan was a cheaper route anyway.
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Hopefully yours is still functioning properly.
#3
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Whittier and Rancho are what, 20 miles appart? Where is your thermostat reading? Mine is always level when I'm moving and up half-way to the next line if I'm stuck sitting too long. I have always just made it a point to keep moving.
#5
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if I am in city "stop and go" driving. It cools it down a bit (and stays down while on), but it makes me feel like I am protecting it. ![jumper](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/jumper.gif)
I think Whittier is about 35 miles from RC. My mother used to live in Ontario, where it was 30 miles from me.
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I think Whittier is about 35 miles from RC. My mother used to live in Ontario, where it was 30 miles from me.
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#8
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That's what I would do. Get one that is about the right size and looks like it would fit, get some tie wraps or maybe fab up some brackets and call it a day. The cheaper one is probably more reliable as well.
-matt
-matt
#9
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Now Matt, I don't think anything from Elephant is "about the right size" or "fabed up". If I posted a link to Jegg's and was trying to get the twin 16" to fit in my fender then there'd be some suthern fabbin' goin' on.
I am gonna start with getting my old one out and seeing if I even have power to it.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Porsc...em200237900784
I am gonna start with getting my old one out and seeing if I even have power to it.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Porsc...em200237900784
Last edited by Amber Gramps; 07-15-2008 at 05:46 PM.
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I'm just yankin' your chain Matt. It's most likely just a generic fan that happens to fit the aplication, but if Elephant is willing to sell it on there site it can't be all that bad.
Elephant is where most guys go to play before they call Steve Weiner for the real set up.
Elephant is where most guys go to play before they call Steve Weiner for the real set up.
#12
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Take a look here (post 8) for testing without removing first, its a bit of a PIA to pull all that stuff out and if you can determine its good, you get to drive instead of working on it. Also see the manual switch install (about $15 total for parts).
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/showthread.php?t=360019
Good luck. Andrew
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/showthread.php?t=360019
Good luck. Andrew
#13
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So I'm in the shed under the car trying to remove the 2 nuts that hold the bottom of the cooler in place. the first one comes right off.........the second one just spins the bolt. So I go to the 3rd nut that is between the two feed lines and it backs out half way and spins the bolt. I'm guessing the rubber mounts have broken into two.
Now What?
1. Remove valance.
2 .Remove fender.
3. Remove bumber.
Now What?
1. Remove valance.
2 .Remove fender.
3. Remove bumber.
#14
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Does your car overheat? If not; I would consider just putting it in the back of my mind and driving it until I am really bored and have a lot to time on my hands.
-matt
-matt
Last edited by old man neri; 07-18-2008 at 01:25 AM.
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First off was the fog light. Second was the horn. Third was the tire (duh). fourth was the oil lines. For the oil lines I used some masive open end wrenches that are 24" long that my wife's late, wicked, ex-step-father stole from Chevron back in the 70's. After that the cooler just came loose. I had to then pop the trunk and unplug the fan and tremostat. 2 1/2 hours totally by my self....
Now I need a new fan, the 3 rubber mounts, and the insulating perimeter foam. Not to bad an evening of fun.
Now I need a new fan, the 3 rubber mounts, and the insulating perimeter foam. Not to bad an evening of fun.
Last edited by Amber Gramps; 07-18-2008 at 01:04 AM.