redtdi96

1) I'm replacing my lower valve cover gaskets and notice there is leakage on the engine side with the gasket on. The area around where the studs protrude from the engine has a very little amount of old gasket material etc.

I'm looking for a chemical cleaner with some elbow grease to get this area polished clean. I'm thinking of using paint stripper as auto parts store did not have any gasket cleaner chemical. I tried with scotch-brite alone but does not do it.


2) is there anyway that the engine can build up pressure in the lower valve cover, to cause a leak? The leak starts after the engine is running for about 2-minutes. I was using a brand spanking new green silicon beaded gasket.

old man neri

Did you check to see if your covers are warped? A piece of glass is ideal. Apparently the older style (non turbo) lower valve covers were notorious for warping.

redtdi96

Ok found a Lisle 22500 air-die scotch-brite abrasive tool + spray gasket remover (I'll put on with a brush). Goal is to have the surface totally polished so hopefully not more valve cover leaks.

I have not used this tool yet but experiment on one of my old turbo Valve covers.

I can't stop thinking is there any way that I can build up pressure in my exhaust valve cover to force oil out of the Valve cover?

KC911

What OMN said... Make sure your covers are flat using sandpaper on a piece of glass and take care not to tighten them too much (6 ft/lbs isn't much ). Use a criss-cross pattern from the middle > out and you should be just fine. I usually do it in two stages...first to 4 ft/lbs (48 inch/lbs), and then go back around again to 72 inch/lbs, and I've never leaked a drop from the valve covers. Hope this helps...

Keith
'88 CE coupe

theiceman

I ama little confused.... I ma not argueing don't get me wrong, but for axample if you use brand new nylocks it must take at least 3 ft plbs just to overide the torque of the nylon on the stud. so it isn't really holding with 6 ft lbs on the sud. i would ay more like 3.

Anyway just musing.

KC911

You might be right Ice...I think the point is that it doesn't take much at all to keep the valve covers secure, and the common mistake of tightening them too much is the source for many leaks. I use a torque wrench calibrated in inch/lbs, but I'm sure many just use a box wrench with a VERY light touch.

CharlesJones

I torque mine to 8Nm, which I think is 6 ft-lbs (70inch-lbs... ish). It doesn't sound like much but I've never had a leak so it seems to work. I made sure my covers were flat using sandpaper and glass like Keith suggests above - using WD-40 as a lubricant - seemed to work fine too, although if you do this make sure you thoroughly clean the valve covers afterwards - you don't want grit from the sandpaper floating round your valve train.

Hmm... I also installed those oil line restricters on the cam spray bar too - I wonder if those would decrease the oil pressure in the valve area and thus limit the risk of leaks? Maybe not, I dunno..

theiceman

hmm htis is agood thread .. getting some good ideas.. I am strting to think mne are too tight. Maybe I will redo them with MORE gaskets

SeattlePorsche

You just need some brake cleaner and a green scotchbrite pad. A skinny razor blade to get 90% off. You can put a clean towel inside the engine so you keep the garbage out of the engine. I tried to be careful with removal of material from the engine side, because you can't sand the engine side of the mating surface flat, unless....

redtdi96

So these items hopefully is the way to clean the valve covers, engine + silicon gaskets to seal. The abrasive pads are really nice. Any experience with the silicon gaskets? My problem has been the drivers side EX valve cover gasket having leaks, yes I replaced the existing turbo valve covers with new turbos. The passenger side is OK.


Silcon gaskets
http://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/...r=PEL-SIL-VLGK

Abrasive pad holder (or use Lisle 22500, but abrasive pad may be a bit much)
http://www.levineautoparts.com/3m052roldisb.html


The pads
http://www.levineautoparts.com/3mrolsurcond3.html

KC911

[QUOTE=redtdi96;5536099]...Any experience with the silicon gaskets?.../QUOTE]

That's what I use, works great for me, no leaks whatsoever...

Amber Gramps

I did the silicon gaskets to on the exhaust side. I had good luck reusing to intake side but not so lucky on the bottoms. Busted one. used the stock gaskets and as of today no leaks. It's only been a week, so we'll see.

The best thing that happened to me was all the studs backing out on the cat side exhaust when I did my first adjustment. made for a nice smooth surface. This go round some stayed in, some came out. I almost like 'em better comin' out. holly crap it runs smooth with the valves correct.

Performance Products sold me a full set of gaskets, 2 oil rings, new lock nuts, new washers, and the stuff for the oil pickup seal and hardware kit for that too. How much? $20.00 couldn't believe it.

no drips yet.

dshepp806

Doug,

What are 2 "oil rings" you are mentioning?

Best,

Doyle

old man neri

I do believe he is referring to the two oil drain crush washers.

Amber Gramps

Matt is correct. Oil drain crush washers. I remember the silicon set being like $75. for $20 I think I did ok....