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Feedback for Elephant Racing Street Track 1 package

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Old 12-31-2015, 07:52 PM
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stuttgart1
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Default Feedback for Elephant Racing Street Track 1 package

Have anyone try their Street Track 1 package on their 911 3.2 (see attachment)? Any feedback will be appreciate.
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Old 12-31-2015, 08:41 PM
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race911
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What are you trying to accomplish? For anything appreciable you'll notice in street driving you'd probably spend under half that amount with Steve Weiner.
Old 12-31-2015, 11:22 PM
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wildcat077
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All you really need is a fresh set of Bilstein Sport shocks,new hard rubber front arm bushings as well as the hard rubber spring plate bushings and Wevo Blue pillow engine and transmission mounts and you have a whole lot of spare money for other upgrades ...
Turbo tie rods are a no brainer and you still have money for stiffer torsion bars if needed !

Cheers
Phil
Old 01-01-2016, 03:33 AM
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stuttgart1
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Thanks for the input. Basically looking to do a refresh, purpose is for sprint driving and occasional track days, 6-10 times a year. Car has upgraded torsion bars, Weltmeister sways and turbo tie rod approx 10yrs ago.
Old 01-01-2016, 10:11 AM
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Techno Duck
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Ive been pricing things out to do the suspension on my car aswell, will be doing the same setup for the most part. Shop around at other places for the struts, shocks, tie rods and ball joints. You can save yourself a few hundred bucks.
Old 01-01-2016, 01:43 PM
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race911
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Originally Posted by stuttgart1
Thanks for the input. Basically looking to do a refresh, purpose is for sprint driving and occasional track days, 6-10 times a year. Car has upgraded torsion bars, Weltmeister sways and turbo tie rod approx 10yrs ago.
"Upgraded" torsion bars are usually a downgrade. Weltmeister stabilizer bars should have all been thrown in the scrap heap two decades ago. (Was the front converted to a through-body?)

Now onto track use. Consider the full tilt Spec 911--mid pack it's a 2:03-2:04 on the full Thunderhill 3.0. (1:53-4 at Sears, 1:45-6 at Laguna.) Again, mid-pack. Subtract about 3 sec/lap for the Woods and Gamroth cars that push mid-6 figures.

Contrast that to what guys were running in the Improved class back when I was Time Trialing in the '90s. Dampers and a rear stabilizer (plus R compounds, but Hoosiers weren't really out yet) were the only mods allowed. They ran about 2:11-12 at Thunderhill. Most of the more modified, but still street legal 3.0/3.2 cars of the day were slower.
Old 01-01-2016, 04:36 PM
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wildcat077
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You just missed out on the annual Rennline 15% off Christmas sale, they retail the Tarett swaybars as well as other good stuff ...
The Tarett bars are most likely the best that are around at this time and it makes dialing in your suspension a whole lot easier.
I found the shocks were cheapest directly from ER but if you buy a lot of parts EBS Racing will give you a good discount !

Cheers
Phil
Old 01-03-2016, 08:55 AM
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73911
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Getting back to basics. You have a street car and you might do some track events.

So far I haven't heard a good reason for spending any money. A stock setup will be just fine for what you want to do. At least for a couple of years.

Take the money you intended to spend on parts and get a really good driving coach. After a couple of years you might think about buying some parts.

Years ago when I was running out of the Philly PCA we got shirts made up that said. "No need to drive better - Just spend more on parts."

That is the basic track day philosophy all over the country today.



Richard Newton
Old 01-03-2016, 02:04 PM
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Spyerx
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on my 89... new front/rear bilstein sports, sport motor mounts, turbo tie rods, proper setup/alignment. Done. Car drives and handles great, wouldn't hesitate to take it on track.

My feeling on track mods is go all the way or don't bother. Going all the way means full monoball everything, TBars, dampers, sways. Because if you don't do it now you will eventually and you will pay 3-4x in labor every time you add something.
Old 01-03-2016, 03:03 PM
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stuttgart1
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Very useful info. Looks like set of new Bilstein, change out the Weltmeister sways, Wevo motor/trans mounts and replace old bushings is all it really need. My car handles great as it stand, just looking for a refresh to make it even better
Old 01-03-2016, 06:31 PM
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race911
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Originally Posted by Spyerx
on my 89... new front/rear bilstein sports, sport motor mounts, turbo tie rods, proper setup/alignment. Done. Car drives and handles great, wouldn't hesitate to take it on track.

My feeling on track mods is go all the way or don't bother. Going all the way means full monoball everything, TBars, dampers, sways. Because if you don't do it now you will eventually and you will pay 3-4x in labor every time you add something.
Well, except for continually chasing a lower oil temp........

The fastest, most underdeveloped (as in throwing parts on) cars I "competed" with were a couple of SCs out of POC in the '80s--Jim Vial and Bill Follmer. (They were the first guys doing 3 piece Fuchs off of BBS halves and cut down 16X6 centers.) I'm thinking ~1:35, maybe quicker at Willow. And that was when we were running A008Rs.

You can get 90% there just dealing with rear roll stiffness to get balance.
Old 01-03-2016, 09:07 PM
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Well reliability mods I don't really consider mods... But im with you. :-)

My RS and 964 are "all the way" chassis setups. my 89 just feels old and fantastic so sharpen it up and bit and it's perfect. Don't want it to feel like a 964!
Old 01-04-2016, 10:29 AM
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Originally Posted by stuttgart1
Very useful info. Looks like set of new Bilstein, change out the Weltmeister sways, Wevo motor/trans mounts and replace old bushings is all it really need. My car handles great as it stand, just looking for a refresh to make it even better
One more thing ... although you're on the right track !

If you plan on doing some spirited track driving you will want to refresh/upgrade as many of the shifter parts as you can !
JWest makes a "hard" pillow shifter linkage pad that replaces the soft rubber OEM unit that could make your linkage feel sloppy, that would be under your little inspection cover on the rear tunnel and replace your shifter bushings as well because you will eventually have a tendency to shift faster than your gearbox will allow you and you will have that uneasy grinding sound coming out of your gearbox, especially 2-3 shifts ... lol

The less flex between your engine and gearbox/shifter makes for smoother more precise shifting !

Cheers
Phil



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