oil pressure sender replacement
#1
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Location: Arlington, VA
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Just picked up a new sender, going to swap it out tomorrow. 101 books go silent on this swap. i would assume its relatively straightforward - similar to oil temp sender replacement.
Anything I should look out for/be aware of?
Thanks in advance.
Anything I should look out for/be aware of?
Thanks in advance.
#2
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I also wanted to do it this weekends. Base the response I got, you should not undo the sensor off the car straight foward. You need to undo the metal oil line and the oil line through bolt first. The sensor and the block shuold come off together, then take the sensor off the block when they are off the car.
The reason is because you can easily mess up the engine case (thread) where the oil line through bolt mount to the engine case if you put woo much force when undo the sensor.
Good luck.
I need luck too.
The reason is because you can easily mess up the engine case (thread) where the oil line through bolt mount to the engine case if you put woo much force when undo the sensor.
Good luck.
I need luck too.
#4
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Many threads out there on this install.
Best,
#5
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Finally, new sender came in after a week undriveable.
At the end, I had to take everything off in order to put things back in. Went for a test drive. When first start, the gauge showed closed to 5. After several seconds, when RPM came down, it showed 4. Drving around a few mins, oil warned up, it showed a tat over 2 at iddle. Cruising at 3k RPM, it showed around 4+. Is it normal?
If I do it again, it won't be that much trouble. Just for the reference, what I would do is:
1- use a 14mm wrench to take the metal line off the oil line through bolt. Of course, use a 17mm wrench to hold tight on the oil line through bolt is a good idea.
2- lift the metal line up to get it out of the path so you can back the oil line through bolt out. Maybe around 1/4 of an inch.
3- use a 17mm wrench, and a 17mm crowfoot wrench to undo the oil line through bolt. Why crowfoot wrench? Because there is not enough room for the 17mm wrench to do this task alone.
4- after the sender and the block came off, replace the sender (install the new sender on the block, off the car)
5- everything should go back the way it come out. First the block (with the sender), then the metal oil line to the oil line through bolt.
PS: I didn't have to take the AC condenser off the car but I had to loosen it so that I can slide it back and forth. Also I needed to take off the AC belt.
The problem I engaged with was (2) I didn't lift the metal oil line up enough, so when I back the oil line through bolt out, it pushed the nut on the metal oil line and it jammed with the line. For this reason, I had to take everything off the car.
Again, thanks everyone.
At the end, I had to take everything off in order to put things back in. Went for a test drive. When first start, the gauge showed closed to 5. After several seconds, when RPM came down, it showed 4. Drving around a few mins, oil warned up, it showed a tat over 2 at iddle. Cruising at 3k RPM, it showed around 4+. Is it normal?
If I do it again, it won't be that much trouble. Just for the reference, what I would do is:
1- use a 14mm wrench to take the metal line off the oil line through bolt. Of course, use a 17mm wrench to hold tight on the oil line through bolt is a good idea.
2- lift the metal line up to get it out of the path so you can back the oil line through bolt out. Maybe around 1/4 of an inch.
3- use a 17mm wrench, and a 17mm crowfoot wrench to undo the oil line through bolt. Why crowfoot wrench? Because there is not enough room for the 17mm wrench to do this task alone.
4- after the sender and the block came off, replace the sender (install the new sender on the block, off the car)
5- everything should go back the way it come out. First the block (with the sender), then the metal oil line to the oil line through bolt.
PS: I didn't have to take the AC condenser off the car but I had to loosen it so that I can slide it back and forth. Also I needed to take off the AC belt.
The problem I engaged with was (2) I didn't lift the metal oil line up enough, so when I back the oil line through bolt out, it pushed the nut on the metal oil line and it jammed with the line. For this reason, I had to take everything off the car.
Again, thanks everyone.