Help wife is spending my Porsche budget on this vacation spot! / Motor smell update
#46
Rennlist Member
Sorry to hear about your issues Doug, I'm reading through them now to get up to date.
The car is probably due for a top end anyway, I wouldn't jump to blaming the chip or bypass.
I agree the cam timing is the only thing that I would have difficulty with but I'm sure it's not beyond us.
Good luck brother!
The car is probably due for a top end anyway, I wouldn't jump to blaming the chip or bypass.
I agree the cam timing is the only thing that I would have difficulty with but I'm sure it's not beyond us.
Good luck brother!
#47
Addict
Thread Starter
I was told "Lacquer thinner works wonders"...I'm not just going to dump it in. Do I use it on a rag? Is a Q-tip the way to go? Blue shop towel? Tooth brush? I'm guessing that I better have the air compressor full to blow off any junk. ...and have that valve closed.
Anything esle I should pick up at Pelican?
head temp sensor? I can't find a listing for the $500 fuel line.
I'd love to back date the heat while i'm in there.
Anything esle I should pick up at Pelican?
head temp sensor? I can't find a listing for the $500 fuel line.
I'd love to back date the heat while i'm in there.
#48
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Haven't used on the 911 yet Doug, but what I used to use for the SHOs I serviced was Berryman's B12 Chemtool, aerosol, tall can. WILL STRIP PAINT, so be careful. DO NOT flood the chamber with this stuff, and it will affect an O2 if you're on an old one / get a good amount inside the chamber. But, nothing I've used is as good at getting oil / carbon mix loosened up.
Blue shop towels tend to leave fibers, be careful on seating surfaces. Be careful of the garbage going through the engine after, too. I used to brass brush then shop vac out the swill (with the valves closed).
Luck, Douglas!
Blue shop towels tend to leave fibers, be careful on seating surfaces. Be careful of the garbage going through the engine after, too. I used to brass brush then shop vac out the swill (with the valves closed).
Luck, Douglas!
#50
Team Owner
laquer thinnner as pointed ot is wicked stuff and is highly poisonus.. be real careful with the stuff Doug . I don't even like having it in the garage..
#51
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Thread Starter
Thanks guys for all the response. I got the laquer thinner recomendation on good athority and will be very careful with it. I'm going to cut up micro-fiber towels to cram down into the port prior to doing anything with liquid.
The high preshure fuel line is the one that has got me perplexed now. Pelican and Performance don't list it. I remember being told OE ONLY, and at a discount German parts website an aftermarket lists at $439.00. I'm guessing it is going to be a dealer item. Who else is within driving distance of three dealers, Performance, and Pelican. keep 'em coming.
The high preshure fuel line is the one that has got me perplexed now. Pelican and Performance don't list it. I remember being told OE ONLY, and at a discount German parts website an aftermarket lists at $439.00. I'm guessing it is going to be a dealer item. Who else is within driving distance of three dealers, Performance, and Pelican. keep 'em coming.
#52
Rennlist Member
douglas: I use lacquer thinner (Chemtool B12 used to be killer stuff but I think that for environmental reasons it no longer works as well, or at least it doesn't seem to) and a brass brush. I pour about 1" of the thinner into a tin cup, and dip the brush into that. I use single-edged razor blades to clean gasket surfaces (change often to avoid scratches), and Q-Tips w/thinner to do the final prep before assembly.
#53
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Thread Starter
Pete, the gaskets came off clean. I only cracked one and the rest lifted right off. I expected a mess and it all went very easy. It went really easy when I figured out that the two throtle return springs were in need of removal.
Pete, this is my shopping list:
OE high preshure fuel line
large rubber boot that connects the L/R manifolds
gasket set
spacer set
head temp sensor
rubber tubes on either side of idle control valve
hose clamps
what else should I do while I'm in there?
Pete, this is my shopping list:
OE high preshure fuel line
large rubber boot that connects the L/R manifolds
gasket set
spacer set
head temp sensor
rubber tubes on either side of idle control valve
hose clamps
what else should I do while I'm in there?
#54
Rennlist Member
Don't forget to do the fuel hose that connects the fuel regulator to the f. damper.
I'm not sure if you have a socket to make a head sensor install tool out of - I think that SnapOn makes one. You don't need anything special to remove the old one, just cut off the wire. To install you need a deep 3/8 drive that you can cut a slot into for the wire...
I'm not sure if you have a socket to make a head sensor install tool out of - I think that SnapOn makes one. You don't need anything special to remove the old one, just cut off the wire. To install you need a deep 3/8 drive that you can cut a slot into for the wire...
#55
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#58
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brent, I hear you on the price of that line. $135.00 sounds better with a fab'd version from a hose shop, but when the best mechanic on the planet is giving me advice at no charge and all he askes in return is that I take his advice and run with it....I kinda owe it to everyone to buy the OEM hose. After all, what is the point of Pete being here if his advice is falling on deaf ears? As I look at it having Pete as a friend, or any of you for that matter, has saved me $1,000's LARGE, so what's $500 amoung friends. My wife is gonna blow that per day in St. Lucia.
It's the hose assembly between the fuel rails that I am after. (not the one in red)
It's the hose assembly between the fuel rails that I am after. (not the one in red)
#60
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Pete, I'm back at the office and have orders to write but part #930 110 411 99 was not a good # at Walter's Porsche or Pelican. I went with 930 110 411 03 @$56.00 at Pelican.