I am currently in the process of disconnecting everything that needs to disconnected prior to the removal of the engine. It is going fairly smoothly since I do not have A/C, any emissions stuff or Cruise control. All I have left is to disconnect the drive shafts, two accessible oil lines and drain the fluild from the tranny. Two questions I have, I have disconnected the clutch cable, pulled off the small spring on the arm, and removed the first arm. My instructions then say that the second larger arm that is beneight the first arm should slide right off. It the one with the large U spring involved. (These are the Pelican instructions by the way.) First, it is not pulling off and secondly, why does it need to come off? Sorry, for the poor terminology.
Next, my instructions are for removing just the engine. I will removing the engine and the transmission at the same time. Do I need two jacks, or can I center a large jack so both are balanced on it? Any tips appreciated.
Thanks.

 

I highly recommend dropping the engine and tranny together. Doesn't take much longer and I find it much easier to install for the home mechanic. That said, regarding the clutch cable, remove it from the arm and that is all you need to do. Make sure you disconnect the speedometer cable if you have one and the reverse light wiring along with the starter wiring. Use one floor jack to drop the engine and tranny. The balance point is about 3 inches back from where the engine and tranny connect. Back meaning towards the rear of the car.

 

Thanks Kurt for your help.

 

Hi David..!

A couple of comments....

You only need to remove the clutch cable that attaches to the release lever - you do not need to remove the actual lever. This presumes you have either a 901 or 915 transmission. If it is a G50 - then unbolt the slave from the top-left of the transmission bellhousing.

A quick check list (for under the car) is:
- Clutch cable;
- Accelerator cable to the transmission yoke;
- The CVs where they attach at the transmission flanges;
- The shift linkage;
- Rear sway bar (if installed);
- Reverse light wiring (901 & 915 only);
- Speed cable or sensor wire;
- OXY Sensor (disconnect from the harness);
- Oil lines (to engine mounter cooler & HP line);
- Wiring to the starter (not the engine harness);
- Hose from the exchangers to the flapper boxes;
- Ground strap...

Hmmm - I'll add more if I think of any

Also - I take out the engine and transmission together like this....

Be sure the car is properly supported;
You will need two floor jacks, two milk crates, one crawler and one 4"x4"x12" block of wood..

First - be sure *everything* is disconnected (see above list) as well as in the engine compartment

- Using 2 floor jacks (one under the engine case and one under the transmission), raise them so they are slightly supporting the engine/transmission;
- Slowly unscrew the REAR mounts (engine), and let the weigt come on to the floorjack.
- Next, slowly lower the engine so that the heat exchangers rest on two milk crates (1 on each side). ALSO - DO A DOUBLE CHECK to be SURE there is NOTHING (wiring harness, coil wire, fuel lines, etc.) still connected to the engine.
- Next, get a "crawler" (one of those things you lay on while under the car), and put a 4"x4" block on it. Now - use the second lift to hold up the transmission - unbolt those mounts - and lower it onto the crawler with the block of wood under the horizontal tranny mount/support.
- Finally, use the rear jack under the engine, remove the milk crates and lower it all the way down, leaving it on the lowered floorjack. It will slide out without tipping over - as the tranny is supported, preventing "side-to-side" tipping - and with two "holding" points - it can't tip over front-to-back...

Yea - I've used just ONE floor jack before, and it ISN'T FUN!!!!

 

Oh, one more thing. Why would the instructions tell me to remove all the other stuff regarding the clutch. It seems like only the clutch cable would interfer with dropping the motor.
Thanks.

 

Because you were reading instructions for dropping the motor separate from the transmission.

 

I use only one jack. But I have build a small platform out of 2X3's and 1X4's that is approximately 2'X 2' with a 1'X 1' partical board square on the underside, with a hole in the center the size of the round plate on the jack.
A trick is to leave the front wheels on the ground. Once the engine is removed and sitting on the jack it will slide out from under the car.
I'm amazed evertime I take my engine out how easy it really is.