Bugman

<img src="graemlins/jumper.gif" border="0" alt="[jumper]" /> I finaly found that I have a 2.7 with a lot of tear down and info. given by yall. and now found that I hammerd a rod bearing. didnt spin it though {good thing} but since I Have it apart I thought yall might be able to tell me if there are any mods I should or could do to it before I put it back in the car??????? bugmanfast4@msn.com

H. D. Smith

Jim, I also have a 2.7 and would like to follow up with you and the mods you do. Raceware studs were placed in mine prior to me owning it to keep the heads down under pressure...Dilavar studs can be used as well according to the 911 performance handbook by Bruce Anderson (GET IT, Great Book).
Good luck.

911 Guy

If it hasnt been done already, the case should be timecerted for the head studs. The studs usualy dont break, they usualy pull out of the case. The time certs will prevent that. Also, I really really wish I put seals on my rocker shafts. A few of mine leak after the rebuild, preventing the illusive "dry" 2.7. They didnt come with the seals, but you can install a later year part number (sorry I dont have it) from Porsche that fit into the grooves already there. Of course, get new front and rear crank seals. Anyother mods can be done after assembly.
Cheers,
S Adams

Bugman

thanks for the advise.!

Bugman

Hey anybody out there I need more horses <img src="graemlins/crying.gif" border="0" alt="[crying]" /> <img src="graemlins/crying.gif" border="0" alt="[crying]" /> <img src="graemlins/crying.gif" border="0" alt="[crying]" />

yellowbusman

Have a set of ARP rod bolts I would like to part with. New in package. $180.00
Chris

Roland Kunz

Hello

2,7 magnesium cases always get oval ground bores so you have to rebore them to standard. If not your new main bearings will bind.

No need to bore them up to first repair size.

Suffle pin the main gallery and do the oil passage relase grooves on all main bolt holes ( like done on Bearing #7 upper ).

Heliciol the long stud under the intermadeate shaft bearing in the middle from the case. They can pull and it will leak.

Avoid steel studs. Even raceware stuff is steel and will pull like the original steel ones.

Only sure way to go is 24 Delavar ( newest generation from 993 ) and timesert or helicoiling.

What will you do with the oilpump ?
Reuse the old one or upgrade.
Also will you go with the hydraulic chain lifters ?
The spun rod bearing has reasons and maybe left debris in the oilsystem. Make sure to do your homework.

Now geting power is best done by adding the right P&C, cams, heads, Distributor and Fuel delivery system.

Thats finally a quest about how much $ you will sink into and what kind of power you demand.

Grüsse

NP993

There are a few great upgrades you can do on CIS engines: backdate the exhaust to the '74 and earlier style, install higher-compression pistons, such as 9.5:1 JE's, and install 964 cams or the 20/21 grind from Web-cam (I think they're made by web-cam...) With the always sage advice of Steve Weiner, I rebuilt my 3 liter engine with 9.5:1 JE's, SSIs and early muffler, and 964 cams, and ended up with 203 rear-wheel HP on the dyno. My car is much faster than the 3.2's, and is great fun to drive. The best part is that you don't have to do anything with the CIS injection.