Valve/Rocker clearance questions.......
#1
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I came from the 996 world
and picked up my friends '87 C 3.2 with a single turbo a couple months ago.![jumper](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/jumper.gif)
My questions are: (I did a search already)
1. What is the worst that can happen with too loose of valves? Will the rocker face get damged, valve stem mushroomed? Dont know the robustness of these parts.
2. How long does it normally take to adjust them?
3. What is the normal sound the rockers should be making when properly adjusted?
When I got the car, the valvetrain was virtually silent. Recently, a couple of rockers started to go from silent (cold), to "tick" (warming up), to "clack" once oil is fully warmed up. Obviously you dont want a clack but possibly a tick?
I came from solid cam V8's and after I properly adjusted them, the rocker arms were always noisy (lots of ticking sounds). This had me worried that these are too tight and the reason for the question #3.
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My questions are: (I did a search already)
1. What is the worst that can happen with too loose of valves? Will the rocker face get damged, valve stem mushroomed? Dont know the robustness of these parts.
2. How long does it normally take to adjust them?
3. What is the normal sound the rockers should be making when properly adjusted?
When I got the car, the valvetrain was virtually silent. Recently, a couple of rockers started to go from silent (cold), to "tick" (warming up), to "clack" once oil is fully warmed up. Obviously you dont want a clack but possibly a tick?
I came from solid cam V8's and after I properly adjusted them, the rocker arms were always noisy (lots of ticking sounds). This had me worried that these are too tight and the reason for the question #3.
#2
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Cory, it's time to buy the .004 gauge and the gasket/nut set and start the adjustment process. The 800HP twin turbo cars at a local shop tap like crazy, but we are talking about a street car here that doesn't (I don't think) have a million bucks in the bank to play with. I would be looking for the tappers right away. You are talking about an engine putting out twice the power it did new.
#3
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Yea, I have the gasket/nut/washer kit already. I was going to wait until I replaced the clutch with a Kennedy Eng. PP and a Kevlar disk. The thing is, I dont know how long it will take to get the PP (money). I dont daily drive it but I still get the fluids circulating every now and then. I didnt know if it is bad to let it go too long. On V8's, I didnt sweat it (the clacking) but this is a different beast I am not understanding of how everything works yet. So, valvetrain noise should be quiet I assume when properly adjusted?
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Tippy, it's 'cause all the old guys from snow country have put up the toys for the winter and don't want to be reminded that this is open season for our cars here in the sun belt.
#6
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#8
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Protomotive kit
SC cams
Full deck IC, dont know brand
1 bar
Custom headers
55lb injectors
Carillo rods (I may be wrong on brand)
Lowered to 7:1 compression
Stock MAF (surprising)
Twin -044 Bosch pumps
Dont have a build sheet, going off PO memory as well as mine
SC cams
Full deck IC, dont know brand
1 bar
Custom headers
55lb injectors
Carillo rods (I may be wrong on brand)
Lowered to 7:1 compression
Stock MAF (surprising)
Twin -044 Bosch pumps
Dont have a build sheet, going off PO memory as well as mine
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#10
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This is a great (easier and more accurate) way to set valves in a 911. Plan on half a day at least for your first time (quicker on subsequent tries):
http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarti...alveadjust.htm
And this article has more background info (very useful to read even if using backside method) with the old fashioned method detailed:
http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarti...lve_adjust.htm
Also, don't rely on sound. 911's all make some valve noise when properly set. It they're silent, they're likely too tight (can risk damage).
http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarti...alveadjust.htm
And this article has more background info (very useful to read even if using backside method) with the old fashioned method detailed:
http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarti...lve_adjust.htm
Also, don't rely on sound. 911's all make some valve noise when properly set. It they're silent, they're likely too tight (can risk damage).
#11
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Be weary of the backside method, left my valves way too loose. I could go into a very deep explanation but I have already done it on another post, just search.
#12
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It left mine perfect (verfied with front-side method) - sorry to hear it didn't work for you...
#13
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This is a great (easier and more accurate) way to set valves in a 911. Plan on half a day at least for your first time (quicker on subsequent tries):
http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarti...alveadjust.htm
And this article has more background info (very useful to read even if using backside method) with the old fashioned method detailed:
http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarti...lve_adjust.htm
Also, don't rely on sound. 911's all make some valve noise when properly set. It they're silent, they're likely too tight (can risk damage).
http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarti...alveadjust.htm
And this article has more background info (very useful to read even if using backside method) with the old fashioned method detailed:
http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarti...lve_adjust.htm
Also, don't rely on sound. 911's all make some valve noise when properly set. It they're silent, they're likely too tight (can risk damage).
Since I will have the engine out to do the clutch, accessability to try both methods will be easy and I can ensure the accuracy by verifying both sides meet spec.
#15
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