So I have had the '84 Cab for 3 years / 31k miles now. From day one the ignition switch (mechanical and electrical) have been occasionally flukey - key doesn't want to turn sometimes, electrical part will occasionally not trip but on 2nd / 3rd attempt always does, etc.

So the other night I'm parked at work & it took about 5 minutes of turning the key to get the electrical side to work & start the car. I am fairly broke right now, especially with the holidays, etc. I am also in the process of selling my 2nd car before the snows hit, trying to pick up a $500 beater prior to snows falling, but we'll see - I may need to COUNT on the 911 for a month or so.

ASSUMING it's the electrical side of the ignition switch that's finally given up the ghost, do I...

1) Replace the electrical only;
2) Replace both at one time while it's got to come apart anyway;
3) Go used to save some coin;
4) Find the wires I need on the electrical side & splice in a simple toggle switch under the dash until spring

Ideally, I'd like to replace the entire setup, have re-keyed, etc. - This would definitely be a credit card situation.

I need to know the step-by-step on this too. Does the electrical side require the disassembly & removal of the entire mechanical side (like, new shear-bolts)?
Do I bother with re-keying or just add one to the keyring?

I have manual (rotary) locks, no (factory) alarm in the door.

If option #4 will suffice until I can do it right, can someone outline the wires I need?

I haven't checked the Bentley or 101 I have (also have the Up-Fixin series but haven't opened them up yet). If the process is well documented in one of those, please let me know. If I need to order the parts, please let me know ASAP so I can get this in-hand quickly.

Thanks very much to all!

(Cross-Posted from Pelican)

 

Providing the ignition switch is 'original' then by giving your Porsche centre the chassis number a new ignition switch will be made for your car - easy way to tell is to get them to make you a new key (based on the chassis number) and test it - if it works locks and ignition then you will be OK, if not then some part had been replaced before.

PJC

 

Fred: I had the same problem, and I replaced the whole assembly with a new unit. I installed a security system on my car, including a power door lock (driver's side only for security), so having an extra key is no big deal for me. You need to disconnect the battery ground strap, unscrew the switch bezel, remove the shear bolts, loosen the jamb nut/bolt on the steering lock arm and pull the switch out (you might have to drill out the two rivets in the plate that the shear bolts go through). I would have done as PJC suggested, but at the time I needed to get the car operational (my switch seized with the steering locked). When you order the switch, also order two shear bolts and a lighted key head, because the key that comes with the switch has a tiny head that, if you have any arthritis in your wrist, is just about impossible to turn.

 

I you assume electrical then chnageout that part......assuming assumption's correct...

Good Luck!

 

I ordered the electrical-side only for $42 shipped (new) from FleaBay. That won't come in until next week sometime, so I'll try cleaning the piece & working on some of the things mentioned over at Pelican too. Automotion had the full mechanical side for $400 (less electrical I think; I emailed them but haven't heard back; they also have -15% on >$250 orders now). I called the Stealer and they wanted $130 + $25 shipping for Monday arrival. Since it's supposed to snow on Sunday anyway, I'll wait the extra couple of days & bank the $110.

Thanks all, happy to hear more too.

 

Amen!

Best