jbizzle78

I was stopped at a stop light and pushed in the clutch and heard a "PoP" and the clutch went to the floor.

We took it to a Pep Boys and they put it up on a lift for us and we saw that the clutch cable "White Plastic Piece" Had sheared the ears off and did not engage the clutch. We drilled a 3/16 hole to insert a bolt to replace the ears and to engage the "clutch forK". The clutch pedal still sits at the floor and we cannot get it to engage.

Question: CAN ANYONE HELP ME??????? Is there any other part that would stop the clutch pedal from engaging?

J. Brinkley

ask on pelican,
where are you?
I don't know jack about 915s

alex973

where are you?

thanks

Paul K

1. Add your location to your profile.

2. Register at pelicanparts.com and post this on the 911 forum.

3. Try to find out if there is an independent Porsche shop near you.

Good luck!

Paul.

psychoideas

I don't know about the earlier cars but it sounds like the fork lever, having no tension on it, has slipped out from behind the clutch throw out bearing.
Use a flashlight to look up into the clutch to see what the fork lever is doing in relation to the bearing.

I think you need to remove the cable again, move the fork lever back behind the bearing, rotate the bearing so that the lugs on it are captured by the fork, put tension on it and reconnect the cable.

This may not be applicable to your car so it's only a suggestion for you to look into.
I hope this is of some help.
Good luck.

LaughaC

where r u?

jbizzle78

Thank you all for your concern...... I MADE IT HOME!!!!! (6:02AM) My friend and I did not fix the problem but we managed to get it in 4th gear and ride it all the way home. Thank God... I'm new to Forums, so you will have to excuse me. Everyone, thanks for the replys and the tip on Pelican Parts. To the gentleman with the shift fork info, Thanks also, that is the same thing that Bob Farmer of FARMERS AUTOMOTIVE told me. I am going to check that out after I get some rest.. By the way BOB FARMER is the best... He answered every question I had.... He is the only one to go to....

Well I'm going to bed..... Tune back in, I'll post some pictures from the adventure from Tampa to Indiana to Tampa..... I guess I learned how to turn a manual 71 911 T to a sportomatic... Now I need to figure out how to turn it back.

GeneralTso

Hehehe.... Glad to hear you made it home!

(and welcome to the forum, BTW!)



Jeff

UberXY

Sounds good.

I made a long trip across England once in an MG whose clutch had failed - whenever I had to stop, I would turn off the engine, put it in second, and then engage the starter when it was time to go. Always started, no problem, and upshifting to 3 and 4 was easy at low RPMs.

Steve
84 Carrera

JG928S4

I had a Fitat 2000 Cable broke off San Marcos Pass and 101 in Cenral California, put it in 4th, lil brother pushed the car as I started it, climbed up the luggage rack over the back bumper, and into the car (convertable) and we rode home in 4th non-stop.

HarryD

Hi,

Be careful about shifting your Porsche without the clutch. Due to how the synchronizers work, it could be a very expensive mistake. Over at Pelican, there was a long discussion. Good reading here: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/showthread.php?t=285234

mo_gearhead

J B,
If the pedal is not coming back up, you may have broken the 'clutch pedal pin' in your pedal cluster, or the clutch return spring may have broken in the same cluster area.

Pull the carpeting back from the pedal cluster area, and do some inspecting.

Let us know what you find.

Droops83

So you experienced the joys of the infamous pull-type clutch that's on the '70-71 911 transmission cars only! I saw your thread on Pelican too and though the pic is blurry I can tell the plastic sleeve that pushes on the clutch fork broke. That is pretty common on these, and that aluminum replacement piece that you were pointed to looks nice.

There are, however, several other weak links in this clutch release system that you should upgrade or at least check. It works in a very strange way, the bowden tube is actually part of the clutch cable and when you push on the pedal to disengage the clutch, you are actually straightening out the bowden tube, which pushes on the end of the clutch release fork, which pivots on a ball pin and pulls on the fingers of the pressure plate, releasing the clutch. A major problem w/ this system, besides the one that you experienced, is that as the clutch disc wears down, the stress point on the ball pin that the clutch fork pivots on changes, and the pin can break, causing the same problem that stranded you on your trip. A stronger ball pin and frequent clutch cable adjustments should help. Another weak point is the cable support ring on the diff cover, those can break, and there is no real good solution to that besides finding another cover as the originals were magnesium, can't weld it!

Of course, there are the other weak points of any 911 cable operated system, those being the cable itself, the roll pin in the pedal cluster, and the clevis pin on the end of the clutch cable near the pedals. Make sure that you renew all of these when you fix your car. It is also a good idea to rebuild the pedal cluster with new aftermarket bronze bushings (well you kind of have to do so in order to change the roll pin anyway!) so that there is no extra resistance on the cable, and it makes the pedals smoother and lighter and quieter to boot.