flex rope lighting to replace the 3rd brake light
04-07-2008 | 02:41 PM
#20
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 448
Likes: 0
From: Newton, MA
Scott- no, never ever to get the black epoxy off. even though the Sekurit Glass is made by my company (Saint-Gobain), they wouldn't give me the solution to remove... some crap about infringement on 'customers rights'. They did say a Dremmel will remove it with some patience...
Others- the light rope is readily available on-line from many sources... 3/8" diameter, white LEDs by the foot. When I made the connections, I used a thin nail (brad), soldered the wires to it, shoved them into the plastic tube where the wires are located. Make certain you have the polarity proper or it doesn't light up. Then I sealed these connections (and the other end) with a wad of clear silicone RTV and some black electrical tape. All that gets hidden when you fish that end back into the vent holes to mate up with the original cabin wiring for the brake light.
The rope is held on on the exterior by 1/4" body side molding tape, made for outdoors, place along the rope and pressed into position against the metal 'bridges' between the vent holes. It's been on for almost year now without and electrical problems, yellowing or lifting from the spot I attached it to.
Visability is still 90% better than before even though the black box epoxy is still there.
This fall when I bring the beast into the wrench for a windscreen replacement (somehow a brick will find it's way into the interior), I may ask for another to find it's way through the rear. An earlier year rear window does not have the box and therefore best suited for this 'upgrade'.
-Gino
Others- the light rope is readily available on-line from many sources... 3/8" diameter, white LEDs by the foot. When I made the connections, I used a thin nail (brad), soldered the wires to it, shoved them into the plastic tube where the wires are located. Make certain you have the polarity proper or it doesn't light up. Then I sealed these connections (and the other end) with a wad of clear silicone RTV and some black electrical tape. All that gets hidden when you fish that end back into the vent holes to mate up with the original cabin wiring for the brake light.
The rope is held on on the exterior by 1/4" body side molding tape, made for outdoors, place along the rope and pressed into position against the metal 'bridges' between the vent holes. It's been on for almost year now without and electrical problems, yellowing or lifting from the spot I attached it to.
Visability is still 90% better than before even though the black box epoxy is still there.
This fall when I bring the beast into the wrench for a windscreen replacement (somehow a brick will find it's way into the interior), I may ask for another to find it's way through the rear. An earlier year rear window does not have the box and therefore best suited for this 'upgrade'.
-Gino
