Peter Zimmermann

Yes indeed, you do at that! I just thought that, until your avatar is dressed in a sump-plate orange T-shirt, and a trans-mount blue outer shirt, that I'd just ignore you ... After all, Fry on Futurama would!

elpresidente

Ice and Pete,
Thank you very much for those suggestions. I'll definitely try those over the weekend. I'll let you know how it goes!

elpresidente

Alright, I had about 15 minutes since it's halftime of the SEC Championship. It's not the relay nor the fuse. I tried listening for the fuel pump but all I hear is the same familiar 5 second whine of what I assumed was the electric antenna motor since the sound comes from the passenger front quarter panel (antenna doesn't rise, but I don't care about that.)

Where should I stick my ear to try and listen for the fuel pump over the annoying anntenna motor? I'll also check for spark. What process is used to ground the spare plug? Thanks in advance for the help!

elpresidente

Phew! She's firing again. I honestly can't say what it was. I disconnected and re-connected all grounds and wiggled the fuel pump. I have a new pump on order just in case. Either way, thanks to all on this board. Especially Mr. Zimmerman and Ice. This message board is excellent!

Peter Zimmermann

Pull the relay again and spread the 5 pins slightly so they make better contact when installed... it might be enough!

theiceman

and throw your new pump in your car. If you ever die it is a very easy replacement for the local garage under supervision , or for a guy who will loan you the lift in his garage.

Houpty GT

But don't stick a valve stem cap in the hose and leave it there.

I went to order a pump from Performance and they told me it was a Hella pump. Has anyone heard of those being any good? The pierburg pumps are only $180 but I read that they will only last 5 years. Sounds like a good reason to buy a Bosch.

Houpty GT

Well I found out what my chirping/backfiring out of the exhaust noise was. I did some reading and learned that the 3.0 engines have a problem with breaking head studs versus pulling them like the 2.7 liter engine did and that with broken head studs the exhaust will excape from between the cylinder and head while under load. I pulled the lower valve cover off (I found out it has turbo valve covers on the bottom) and immediately one stud fell out. I used a magnet to check the others and 2 more were broken. That is one on each cylinder on the left side, I have not checked the right side but I already know I am in for a rebuild of at least the top end.

This leaves me with a lot of reading and planning to do.

theiceman

one thing for sure , those exhast gasse are corrosove and will make quick work of your cylinder and head. Park it until it gets fixed or you will be needing new ones..

Houpty GT

Here is an update on my engine. I have the top end apart and have found that 9 of the 12 dilavar studs were broken. The all appear to have enough length left to get a set of vice grips on them and torch them out. Most of them broke right where the head and cylinder meet. My heads and cylinders all seem in good condition with no damge and I should not need to replace them.

Brads911sc

any one have experience with the Nippondenso high torque starters..

theiceman

Houpty looks like things are going great , how abut a few pics ?

Brada few people have had experience may be better off starting a new thread so more people will see it

951kid

This is an awesome thread, and since it seems to have alot of knowledgeable people reporting to it I would love to hijack it some more

What would you recommend looking at if the car has specific trouble hot starting. I am taking a look at the old mans '75 911, and it usually takes two cranks to start it cold, and when its hot i might have to go so far as to open up the air box and push the sensor plate up and down a bit to get the car to fire.

Based on what i've read on this thread so far it appears that there is a function in the cars electronics that it will not apply an extra fuel injector once warm, but I don't think that is relevant. Additionally it looks like there is a vaccum line that should draw the sensor plate up when the car is cranked, thus making the mixture more rich, and giving it a better chance to start.

So if I'm on target with this, where should I look for the vaccum line or any other issues? Could this be a symptom of a bad accumulator or fuel check valve possibly?

thanks in advance for the help!

Peter Zimmermann

First things first:
1. What is the dwell angle set at?
2. What is the timing set at?
3. What is the CO% set at?
4. What spark plugs (make & heat range) are in the car, and what are they gapped at (sample Bosch W6DC @ .028")?
5. When you pull the hand throttle all the way up on a warm (160F + oil temp) how many rpm does the engine run at?

This is not a waste of your time, we must have answers to all of the questions before beginning to diagnose a possible injection problem. When you answer try to be as specific as possible.

951kid

well.... the only thing i can tell you here at the moment is I need to do a lot more looking at this car before i start trying to diagnose this issue

1. No idea....I don't know what the dwell angle is (ill run a search in a second)
2. No idea... will take a look shortly
3. No idea... suppose i need to take this to a shop to get it tested
4. Will get this soon
5. The hand throttle is broken and i think i just found the part to fix it on pelican parts

Sorry to be taking up your time, I'll try and get these items this weekend, thanks again