'69Fast

Hello Everyone,
I'm a newcomer to the Porsche world. I am going to be looking at a 1969 Porsche 911 and I was wondering what I should be looking for, good and bad. I know that the engine was recently rebuilt, and I'm going to have it taken to a shop to check out the engine, trans, etc. Are there any specific points on the '69 911 that rust out commonly, problems, etc. Any information would be greatly appreciated! Thank you very much!

Hilary

JackOlsen

The entire car is vulnerable to rust (except the magnesium, stainless steel and aluminum). A thorough pre-purchase inspection by a shop not affiliated with the seller is a must. If there's rust anywhere, then you need to get all the more assertive with the pick and flashlight. There was recently a 73 on another BBS that was rust free, until the new owner removed the rear seats and sound deadening material -- only to discover the metal completely gone beneath them.

And if you're buying from Born2bFast, or the rebuild was by Motormeister, tell us now, before it's too late. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="wink.gif" />

mo_gearhead

My 69T is on a rotisserie as we speak. Lots of rusty areas, front suspension pan, floors, batery boxes, etc. to be replaced. Check the ENTIRE car carefully...(rocker panels, door post area, rear torsion bar supports). As has been said, rust never sleeps!...and these early cars had no zinc/galv. body protection.
Where the car spent its years (dry climate?) and how it was cared for is critical to the rust issue.

pwd72s

With all respect due to Jack, he missed another "rustproof" area of the early cars...the glass. However, windshields have been known to pop out when one slides backwards at triple digit speeds with the rear vent windows open... <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="wink.gif" /> Seriously, the worst rust problems are in cars that were driven on snow in areas where roads are salted. The Pacific NW is a heavy rain area, but there are many cars without a rust problem up here.

Jim Florance

I just got through with a major rust rennovation. my car was supposed to be rust free. I even went to the effort of having an independent shop PPI done. The previous owner did a masterful job of floating out undercoating, fiberglass and body filler. I found the problem when the car went in to the shop to be converted into a race-car. The pan, and the suspension pick up points at the rear were gone. If it weren't for Restoration management and a sympathetic shop owner that let me use his facilities to do most of the cutting and fittment of new sheet metal, the car would have been a throw-away. even with me doing most of the work, the sheetmetal, welding and chassis alignment still cost 3500.00. I was told by the shop owner, he would have had to charge at least $9000.00 for the work that was required. Moral of the story. get agressive if even a small amount of rust is found!!! get the car up on a lift and take a pick to every single spot you see that might even hint of a problem. Pull the carpets back and check the foot box/pedal areas, battery locations, behind the seats and the door bottoms. All these areas are especially prone to damage.

'69Fast

Thanks so much for the good info. The car has been in my home town for quite a few years, but has been a second driver, and garaged. He didn't drive it much in the winter, it was a summer car. I will be very assertive in looking for rust and PPI as well. It has been sitting now for a while, the owner said he needs to check on everything and then we'll arrange a test drive. I'm not buying from Born2bFast and the rebuilt wasn't by Motormeister... thanks for all the good info!
Hilary