Chas

Hey all,

My key thing decided to get all sorts of messed up...when I put the key in and turn it, it's "gummy" for the first part of the turn, then gets easier and just freely turns left and right, and I can't get to the "spring loaded" start engine position (past the run/on position). Anywho, now the car just sits in the Accessory position, and the key does nothing (oh, and you can also pull the key out at any position, not just off). So obviously I need a new key thing.

I pulled the back plug harness connection off the thing, and I noticed that turned the car from accessory (which it was stuck on) to off. My question is, can I close the circuit between two of the harness connections (there are about 8 different socket connections) to get the car to put the car in "run" postion, and short another two to fire the starter? I need to get the car out of the current parking lot it is sitting in.

Thanks SO MUCH for the help!

HarryD

Hi,

Before you disassemble anything, spray some WD40 into the keyway to see if you can free it up. Spray, wiggle, turn, wait 15 minutes. repeat a few times.

Also, sometimes the column lock will prevent the key from turning freely, trying turning the steering wheel slightly to see if that frees it up.

Lastly, once you have the key turning, use a good, clean lube (not graphite) like Triflow to help it staying ok. You will need only a tiny bit. If it is running out the lock, you have too much lube.

Chas

okay cool, thanks.

I didn't know if WD40 would damage the electrical components of the key socket...I'll give that a try

HarryD

Glad to help.

The WD40 will not hurt anything.

As far as hot wiring your car to sart it, that will work but the steering wheel lock will prevent you from driving your car anywhere. You need to get the lock freed up.

Chas

right now I can freely turn the wheel lock to lock (for some reason ) with the key out and the wiring harness off the back of the key lock.

Chas

hey btw, what is the actual part called that I'm talking about...where it's just the ignition key socket? I might have to start looking for a replacement

Chas

does anyone have a wiring diagram so I can hotwire my own car?

Also, can someone please go to their car and tell me how far the range of motion of the key is supposed to be? if you put in the key at "12:00", mine will only turn to about 5:00 or 5:30....can someone verify where on the "clock" the spring loaded "starter" section is? I have a feeling it is at 5:00, where mine can go to. Problem is, there is no spring loading area between say 4:00 and 5:30...I think I am able to turn AND LEAVE the key in the starter position. As of right now (after WD40'ing), I can easily put in the key, turn it anywhere from 12 - 5:30, and remove the key in any of these positions. There is still a bit of clicking and whatnot so it seems that it is still engaging certain points in the turn.

if I put the key in at the off (12:00) position, turn it all the way to 5:30, then back off to 3:00 (90 degrees), and then try and go back to 5:30, it will only let me get to about 4:00...which is why I am guessing that I can freely get to the start position without the spring loading backing it off.

Long story short (too late), I would LOVE to know on anyones car at what clock positioni the spring loaded "starter" position is, and the position where they key sits when you are driving down the road, as well as a wiring diagram fo the plug that comes off the back, so that I can short the correct two ports just to get the thing home so I can work on it further!

Thanks so very much for any help!

Peter Zimmermann

It would be dangerous for you to attempt to hotwire your ignition harness in order to drive the car, when the steering lock could engage at any time. Have the car flat-bedded to where you need to get it, and order a replacement ignition switch. The dealer can get you one from Germany made to your (VIN) key, but if your keys don't match, get a new switch off the shelf, you'll just have another key on the key fob.

Chas

how does the ignition switch physically lock the steering wheel? As I said, I can lock to lock right now all day long...

HarryD

Chas,

If you look at the attached picture, you can see a long finger on the right side of the switch assembly. This finger engages the steering column to prevent it from turning.

Per our friends at Pelican Parts:

Complete Ignition Switch Assembly with Tumbler/Steering Lock Mech & Electrical, 911 (1974-89) 964-347-917-01-M100 (Install with shear bolts below) $514.50

psychoideas

Hi Chas,

If you look at the pic that Harry has posted, the steering lock/ ignition switch is made up of two parts.
The top part (hereby referred to as part 1) is the bit the key goes into and the steering lock. Like Harry said the lock pops out from that long bit on the right to engage a slot milled into the steering shaft.

The bottom part (hereby referred to as part 2) is the electrical side of the unit and is the ignition switch. I’ve posted a pic of one that I have below.

Now then, part 1 is attached to the dash by two shear bolts located under the plastic bezel that surrounds the key hole. (Rotate plastic bezel anti clockwise to remove)
Part 1 is also clamped to the steering column by a bolt where it meets the column.
Both part 1 and 2 are installed from under the dash.

As you can see from Harry’s pic and my pic, part 1 and 2 are screwed together by two screws. When they are together, and then installed, the wiring loom plug attaches to the rear onto the pins that are visible.

Shear bolts are there to help prevent theft so they can be very hard to remove, however in saying that, sometimes they come out easily.
With the plastic bezel off attempt to grab the heads of the shear bolts with locking pliers and rotate anti clockwise. If you don’t have any luck they need to be drilled and extracted with and Ezi-out. (Tool for removing broken bolts/studs)
If you can get a short screw driver to the 2 screws that hold parts 1 & 2 together you can separate them. Then if you put a flat screw driver into the hole in part 2 and turn it, the car will start.
The hole I’m speaking of is in the centre of the right hand face in my pic. (actual hole not visable in pic) Opposite end to the electrical connection pins.

Please don't take offence if I have "over explained" this.
I hope this helps some what. If you need any more just ask or PM me.

Good luck

sig_a

The last thing you want to do is replace the complete ignition switch/steering lock. I had as similar problem and let the dealer (they misdiagnosed the problem) talk me into removal and replacement. Even in that, I was lucky to have the original key numbers to order the new mechanism to work with my original set of keys. $495 later, the new mechanism also occasionally feels like it is about to freeze up. I use copious amounts of Rem Oil (gun lube oil) direct into the key hole as regular maintenance. One other thing. Unlike other cars I was familiar with, my 87 Carrera wheel locks at 12/6 rather than 9/3. Consequently, I thought the original wheel lock mechanism was broken as well.

psychoideas

Hey sig_a,
I'm going out on a limb here but I used to have a sig226 for work. Is that your user name reference?

Chas

okay so I have to drill out the sheer bolts from the ignition...BUT THE STEERING WHEEL IS IN THE WAY. Can someone tell me how I get the steering wheel off so I can ez-out the bolts???

I'm going to have to pull the engine to change a turn signal, aren't I?

Sorry, I'm 6'5" and 210lbs, and just contorted myself in some very crazy positions to get underneath the dash.

Thanks for everyone's help!!!

psychoideas

What steering wheel do you have. the Porsche 3 spoke?