ZAMIRZ

Well guys, i think the time has come for me to rebuild the engine and possibly the transmission. The car now has ~96K miles on it, and the transmission the same. I don't have the largest budget, but i think i have more than enough money for the parts and some of the labor. I understand that rebuilding the engine is a pretty costly task, but my car ticks like a timebomb and refuses to run properly in the real heavy heat that we have here in the San Fernando Valley, not to mention my father says it just doesn't go the way it used to when he bought it new (which i am assuming is due mainly in part to a slow but steady drop in compression from age and mileage). I was looking through the new Excellence and I noticed that most of the part suppliers have some sort of "engine rebuild kit" in their adds. The prices fluctuated from as little as ~$500 to ~$900. Now could someone tell me what i'm looking for as far as parts go. Now onto the transmission: I can already tell the 3rd gear synchro is on its way out, and the clutch lets out an awful groaning sound when i depress it. The shifting performance is actually very nice and i never bang or grind gears. However, sometimes it seems like the shifter does not want to go into 2nd gear and it takes a forceful tug to get it down there. To sum it all up, i want to know what exactly I'm looking at over here. I know that it is pretty hard to have the cars situation assessed over the computer, but if you guys could just give me the best and worst situations, i'd greatly appreciate it.

regards,

amir '83 SC

Bill Gregory

Amir,

I'd recommend a leak down test and compression test before deciding you need to do a complete rebuild on the engine. When you say it ticks like a time bomb, are the valves adjusted correctly? Adjusted recently? Maybe broken head stud(s)? Leak down will help diagnose what you'll want to do. If you only need to do a top end refresh to replace studs and/or valve guides, that's easier and cheaper than breaking the case and rebuilding the bottom end on up.

Jeff Curtis

Amir, at 96k, it's likely the lower end of the engine won't require much attention...as long as you have always kept a full belly of oil in there!

Bill is right, the ticking is either valves out of adjustment or broken head studs.

I used EBS profusely whenever I needed engine parts, and Gary Fairbanks in Norwalk, Ct. for transmission stuff.

I ran the hell out of my SC and did in upwards of 10 track events a year with it including using it as a daily driver. It had 320hp and frequently broke something, whether it was pistons or trans. parts...usually a gear or ring and pinion.

Over a 7 year period I pretty much figured out who to hit up for deals on parts, the two previously mentioned seem to be the best bet, Gary is a little hard to get ahold of sometimes though.

Refresh the upper end of your motor, be sure to get a place to do a good valve job as well, new guides, valves checked for taper, etc. It's likely your valves will be okay w/96k on them. Upgrade ALL of your head studs to Dilivar or Racewear...both are great replacements, careful w/location REAL Dilivars though!! You should be able to re-ring the pistons and assemble...have the pistons/cylinders checked for wear, roundness and piston ring gap. Also, the piston circumference when compared to it's mate cylinder shouldn't be over .006mm - if my memory serves me correctly! Go thru a reputable place...EBS should be able to do you right, talk w/Mike.

As far as your transmission, sounds like the dog teeth on 2nd are rounding off...3rd sounds like a worn synchro/engagement band. Do yourself a favor and replace ALL dogteeth/synchros/bands...that's pretty much what will be worn out, or on its way. If you don't upset the shims for the pinion gear, you won't have to re-measure for pinion depth...same goes w/the spacers on the stub axles that control ring gear lash...you may get different opinions on that one...but I call b.s. on any opinions that will differ from mine on that subject, sorry.

Remember, have fun doing this, you'll learn a lot and will likely wind up being VERY proud of yourself. All of your neighbors will be impressed that you took apart that "expensive German car". Get Bruce Anderson's books, both are available through Performance and at some bookstores. Also, get ahold of a Hayne's manual for a 911SC/Carrera...seriously! If you put the info. from both of them together, along w/pics, you'll be pretty well set.

If you have any questions, gripes, moans or concerns, I'd LOVE to help you out, probably have a few pics to share as well.

I'm off for a one month vacation!!! Will still have email and digital camera w/me though...good luck!

Leland Pate

Some very good advice here. With that mileage it is very hard to say whether or not the bottom end is in need of attention.

I would suggest taking this approach:
After you have determined that you are in fact going to pull the motor for some level of refurbishment, give the motor a chance to tell you what it needs. If everything looks cherry, than I wouldn't be too worried about the bottom end. But if you see any signs of neglect, unusual wear etc. You might try mentally preparing yourself for that situation. In my opinion, the bottom end is really easy to do, and not that much more expensive. Figure that by the time you get the engine down to the bare case you've already got the thing, what, 60%/70% dissassembled?... Why the heck not split the case and throw in a new set of bearings and have the rotating parts, sized, polished and balanced?
This was the same arguement that I fought with myself over for some time before I finally committed to doing my SC "all the way".

Expect to go about 30% over budget...
Here is a partial parts list that I have from my rebuild.

Rebuild kit
CIS hoses, boots, etc.
Warm up regulator
Cold Start Valve
Injectors
12 Steel headstuds
24 Head Stud nuts and washers
CLutch kit
flywheel
layshaft gear
Chain gears
Set of Intake valves
Set of Exhaust valves
Set of valve springs
Set of rocker arm shafts
Oil pressure relief valve piston springs
Set of Reconditioned KS 9.3:1 Pistons and Clyinders
Beru Ignition wires
Plus many more misc. items that can really add up quick.
Especially if you want higher compression, more agressive cam grinds, better exhaust...etc.
I have spent a considerable amount having my parts hot tanked, machined and balanced.

I can tell you that it will take longer than you think. Don't be afraid to dive in your self. I have pretty much done mine by myself (first timer) and would never have attemped something like this if it weren't for the great people on these web communities that will go out of their way to offer advice.
Best of luck to you, please feel free to email me if you have any further questions.

Regards,
Leland Pate

SC World Domination Plot Mastermind

P.S EBS (Engine builders Supply) is the ONLY place in the world to buy parts. Period. Cheaper than ANY OTHER place, OUTSTANDING Tech support, friendly, honest, quick....doesn't get any better than those guys. I have bought everything for my motor from them and only wish I had known about them earlier. They are also doing my cylinder head work.
Great guys.

ZAMIRZ

Wow guys, thanks a whole bunch for your support, you will all probably recieve an email from me at some time or another and i will post pics with the digi-cam along the way hopefully. Hmm, i have Bruce Anderson's book (2nd edition), i will go pick the Haynes' manual up tomorrow. I have absolutely no tools that are even half adequate to work on my Porsche. However, my neighbor who has a twinturbo Rotary Mazda probably has enough tools in his car to take my car and his car apart with ease (we're talking everything short of a full life setup). Anyway, i think i'm off to Monaco Motors tomorrow to get a compression/leakdown test and having the valves adjusted, and then we will go from there. I have 1 question though. How much (and i don't mean to sound like a stingy grounch, but i've never done this before) does having a compression/leakdown test and having the valves adjusted cost?

thanks,

amir '83 SC

ZAMIRZ

bah, fingers and mind are tired and can't type, that's "enough tools in his garage" and "we're talking everything short of a full LIFT setup"

good night all,

amir '83 SC

Bill Gregory

Amir,

You may want to read the 911SC FAQ at tech.rennlist.com under resources. The Haynes manual is a step above bantha doo doo. Suggest getting the Bentley manual (which isn't perfect either, but much better than Haynes). I'd also get the factory manual, which is expensive unless you can use fiche. If nothing else, pick up the Porsche parts catalog - the best $10 you'll spend!

Steve, 914 guy

Zamirz, I can recommend a great machine shop in your area, Ollie's.
We send all of our 911 engine work to them, 300 mi away. Their learning curve has already been curved, and all of their machines are already set up to do what you need, so you won't get any lines like, well... I had to make a jig, so it'll cost a little more.

They advertise in Excellence mag.