Rear Suspension Replacement
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Yeah, something tells me the old ones weren't quite pulling 100%...
Last edited by 84_Carrera; 06-30-2007 at 08:57 PM.
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Ok, so with great interruption today (got my plasma calibrated, & had to take the boy for some occupational therapy / upper body workout), I worked on the driver's rear, for the first time working on a torsion bar car.
Notes:
1) shock replacement out back is the biggest piece of cake ever. 17mm ratchet wrench makes short work of removing / installing the top shock nut. 1 nut up top, 1x 22mm bolt down below, shock's out.
2) Figuring out how to disassemble everything to get the t-bars / radius arm (spring plate) out is a little time consuming. 101 Projects says rear calipers have to come out, not so on my 84. Side moulding rubber strip off to expose the side moulding mounting screws. The funky clip holding the rear t-bar access hole filler panel is actually an 8mm nut compressing a flat piece of metal - it looked all 1 piece but isn't.
3) Radius arm eccentrics are larger than normal-size-kit allen wrench / sockets - guesstimating 12mm, & my kit went up to 10mm.
4) Per Steve W at Rennsport, no worries on over-extending the rear Bilsteins.
5) Heffalump (Elephant) Racing's spring plate bearings are pretty time consuming, but not overly difficult. I used a twist-in abrasive disc to clean up the remaining rubber from the radius arm / t-bar cover. After install of the races (which require JB to "glue" to the radius arm, not included), I masked them off w/ painter's tape & shot the de-undercoated parts of the arm with flat black paint, rather than cleaning up completely & having plated / etc.
6) ERP's front t-bars are hollow but plugged on both ends; Sander's bars are hollow but unplugged. Not sure what's better, leaving them open or sealing up w/ some RTV / similar.
7) I used the inner t-bar tubes to place the stands under.
If all goes well, by tomorrow I should be well on my way working the fronts - I suspect this'll be a little more interesting with the ERP A-Arm bearings, etc.
Oh, and putting up the windows for the 1st time in... ???, sounds like the driver's regulator went... "BOOM!". Window went all the way up, but I'm not chancing it coming down until it's rollable again.
Notes:
1) shock replacement out back is the biggest piece of cake ever. 17mm ratchet wrench makes short work of removing / installing the top shock nut. 1 nut up top, 1x 22mm bolt down below, shock's out.
2) Figuring out how to disassemble everything to get the t-bars / radius arm (spring plate) out is a little time consuming. 101 Projects says rear calipers have to come out, not so on my 84. Side moulding rubber strip off to expose the side moulding mounting screws. The funky clip holding the rear t-bar access hole filler panel is actually an 8mm nut compressing a flat piece of metal - it looked all 1 piece but isn't.
3) Radius arm eccentrics are larger than normal-size-kit allen wrench / sockets - guesstimating 12mm, & my kit went up to 10mm.
4) Per Steve W at Rennsport, no worries on over-extending the rear Bilsteins.
5) Heffalump (Elephant) Racing's spring plate bearings are pretty time consuming, but not overly difficult. I used a twist-in abrasive disc to clean up the remaining rubber from the radius arm / t-bar cover. After install of the races (which require JB to "glue" to the radius arm, not included), I masked them off w/ painter's tape & shot the de-undercoated parts of the arm with flat black paint, rather than cleaning up completely & having plated / etc.
6) ERP's front t-bars are hollow but plugged on both ends; Sander's bars are hollow but unplugged. Not sure what's better, leaving them open or sealing up w/ some RTV / similar.
7) I used the inner t-bar tubes to place the stands under.
If all goes well, by tomorrow I should be well on my way working the fronts - I suspect this'll be a little more interesting with the ERP A-Arm bearings, etc.
Oh, and putting up the windows for the 1st time in... ???, sounds like the driver's regulator went... "BOOM!". Window went all the way up, but I'm not chancing it coming down until it's rollable again.
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BTW, if anyone in SE Mass / RI / CT wants to come over, have a beer while I'm pulling apart / putting back together, you're all welcome. Right Rear's apart & on the bench for Heffalumping now.
Cell Number is 401-578-0652, and I'm in Cumberland RI.
Cell Number is 401-578-0652, and I'm in Cumberland RI.
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Hey Fred,
What a great job you're doing!!
If I was in the area, I'd love to drop in for a beer.
Alternatively, you are always welcome at my place for a VB! but I'll be away this week end!
Keep the pictures coming.........
What a great job you're doing!!
If I was in the area, I'd love to drop in for a beer.
![cherrsagai](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/drink.gif)
Alternatively, you are always welcome at my place for a VB! but I'll be away this week end!
![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
Keep the pictures coming.........
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Aww, thanks for jinxing it Frank... ![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
So after replacing the pass side rear t-bar, matching angles as stocker removed, I can't get the banana arm up high enough to attach the shock without lifting the whole car. Yikes.
So, I figure I'll use the car's weight to drop down to the point of compressing far enough to seat everything. Nothing doing, I'm 1/4" too short to start the fasteners up top.
I assume that I'll need to adjust the radius arm a bit to compensate. BTW, I had oh, about a boot's width worth of tire to fender clearance when lowered. We're talking jacked up 4-4-2 lookin'. Guess those 29mm bars make a heck of a difference in spring strength over stock. I'm off for a coffee before pulling apart again.
![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
So after replacing the pass side rear t-bar, matching angles as stocker removed, I can't get the banana arm up high enough to attach the shock without lifting the whole car. Yikes.
So, I figure I'll use the car's weight to drop down to the point of compressing far enough to seat everything. Nothing doing, I'm 1/4" too short to start the fasteners up top.
I assume that I'll need to adjust the radius arm a bit to compensate. BTW, I had oh, about a boot's width worth of tire to fender clearance when lowered. We're talking jacked up 4-4-2 lookin'. Guess those 29mm bars make a heck of a difference in spring strength over stock. I'm off for a coffee before pulling apart again.
![cherrsagai](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/drink.gif)