sschmerg

Is it worth performing all the updates on the G50 as a preventative measure?

My '88 has about 25k on it right now. The trans and clutch feel fine, and the clutch pedal still feels soft, as it should. What's bothering me is that I am having the problem of the starter not properly engaging the ring gear on the flywheel every so often.

I have replaced the starter, but it has not helped. Porsche documented this problem in a TSB, but despite my low mileage, I'm obviously way out of warranty. The dealer will probably at least pick up the cost of another starter, but I doubt much else.

I can live with the starting problem I suppose (unless it becomes worse), but am I risking damage to the trans/clutch by not performing the other updates to the G50?

If I have them all done, how much is it going to cost me?

Thanks,
Sean

John D.

Hi Sean,

For right now - you are battering your ring gear and your pinion starter gear. As in my '87 - replacing the starter to cure the problem got a little expensive after a while... <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="wink.gif" /> There is a replacement part (ring gear) which will cure that non-engagement (as documented in the TSB) as you know, and I purchased my updated ring gear from The Racer's Group - as well as the update package for the shaft, T/O bearing, etc.

I also understand that there is a kit available which is a direct replacment for an unmodified G50, where the shaft is milled to accept newer bronze bushings, which would negate the drilling/tapping of the shaft guides in the bellhousing, and bypasses the problematic needle bearings - but I don't have any experience with that kit....

HTH...!

John D.

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">Originally posted by John D.:
<strong>....as well as the update package for the shaft, T/O bearing, etc...</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">Oh - be sure you get the update with the sized reamer and pilot..!!! Some are sold "with" and some "without" this very important part..!!!

Best to you..!

sschmerg

Thanks John.

So you think I should have all the G50 updates done now? If I don't do the updates to the shaft, throw-out bearing, etc., will I risk more costly damage later on? Do you have any idea how much this should cost? I can't do this kind of stuff myself!

-Sean

John D.

Hi Sean...!!!

I'm sorry - I just re-read your original post - and I answered everything "but" what you were asking..!!! Sorry about that!!!

Hmmmm - with 25K miles - and everything is running OK otherwise? No. Leave it where it is for right now. If you are ever "stuck" given the starter doesn't engage - leave the car in 1st - and "rock it" a bit. It will engage - but "then" it is time... (Ask me how I know ...

Honestly - I do all my own work - and the tranny update was part of a larger "rebuild". To ream/install/upgrade the G50 is easy - the hardest part was actually removing the old parts, as they were "frozen" in place.

Just to note - my '87 had 117K miles on it before this upgrade - with a new clutch at 55K miles years ago. As for starters between 55K and 117K - I went through 3 of them..

Best to you - and please post back if I missed something, OK???!!!

John D.

Cost?? Yikes.....

OK - let me take a stab..... Parts - about $1000 - $1200, if you go with a new non-rubber center-mounted clutch (don't )

Labor: hmmm - probably another $800 - $1500, depending if they "go by the book", or actual time...

That supposses that nothing else is gone when they remove the engine (clutch slave, mounts, ground straps, etc....)...

Just a ballpark would be $2300+..??? I'd invite others to post back, if they have used a third party mechanic/P'Car Dealer..???

HTH!!!!

sschmerg

Thanks again John!

Based on what you've written, I think I'll just leave it -- $2300+, wow! The starting problem only occurs every once in a while, so if it gets a little worse, I'll just replace the starter again. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="wink.gif" />

I was curious about one other thing you wrote...do you mean to stay away from a "new non-rubber center-mounted clutch"? I assume you mean to stick to the OEM clutches, right?

Thanks,
Sean

John D.

Hi Sean,

I'm sorry for the confusion..! When you replace the clutch, do not use the rubber mounted center (OEM SACHs replacement). Go with a non-rubber. In my 911 - as the rubber hardened over the years - stop-start on a hot day in traffic was horrific, as the "bucking" would kill you. Felt like the engine was about of drop out of the car!!! Usually - that happens as the rubber center is about to "explode" and totally disintegrate....

Not to give you something else to worry about, though. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="wink.gif" /> ..!!

sschmerg

Thanks for clearing that up. Hopefully, I won't need to replace that anytime soon. The clutch still feels like new, with a nice soft pedal.

Thanks again for all your help!

-Sean

Rick Lee

I DIY'ed my G50 update with the milled shaft and bronze bushings (Weltmeister kit), Sachs spring centered clutch kit and a new flywheel for about $900 total. It's not that hard a job and it was a great learning experience. Before that oil changing was the height of my DIY prowess.

At 25k miles you're probably ok on the clutch. But it's really no more labor to update that clutch if you already have to replace that ring gear. If you're a real cheapskate (like I am), you can just flip that ring gear over and probably get plenty more years out of it. But that depends how chewed up it is. The labor to get to it is the same - engine R&R, have to install new guide tube in tranny, etc.