butzip

I was changing my oil yesterday and noticed the main (on engine) fuel line is looking pretty dry rotted. So, I looked into how much it cost to replace. Dealer wants $531.00!!!! WTF?!? Thankfully I have a friend who can get me one at cost. What's cost you ask? $329.00. Jeeeezz. I suppose it's better than bursting into a ball of flames but not much better...........

Peter Zimmermann

I discuss this problem on pages 101/102 in the 8th edition of my book. Your "cost to replace" is just the price of the fuel line, not including labor. If you plan to do this yourself be sure to have new intake manifold gaskets on hand, along with the fuel line (930 110 411 99) that connects between the pressure regulator and pressure damper. You can't really see the other line (it's forward of and below the intake manifold), but it will need replacement (intake manifold removal is part of this job). Normally, at today's labor rates, if you have the job done it will cost about $900 - $1,000 for everything.

butzip

Peter,

Thanks for the prompt reply. I came up with part# 930.110.595.05 for the fuel line. Can you cfm which is correct? Like everything, I plan to do it myself, however removing the intake manifold is news. I haven't given it a really thorough look yet, but I will now!

I presume it's time for replacement in this condition, no chance on that being factory dry rot is there?? Then I could just ignore it :-)

Peter Zimmermann

Your part number is correct for the line that you can see. The number that I gave is for the other line that you should replace, while the int. manifold is off.

butzip

Oh, I see. Valuable input as always, thanks again. I'll look at it closely tonight.

g-50cab

I took mine off and took it to a local hydraulic supply house (Amazon Hose)

They took off my old fittings and made me a new line using teflon lined stainless steel fuel grade hose. Both lines cost me a little over $150.

butzip

Jeremy,

Thanks for the info. I just happen to have a Parker Store nearby that fabricates high pressure hydraulic, brake and fuel lines. They said they can replace the rubber lines and reuse the oem hard lines. I like that idea since I'm weary of using something that may look out of place. Of course, safety and performance are paramount to looks and then there's that matter of 20% of the cost.

Obviously you had your engine out but What are your thoughts on removing the intake manifold. My apologies Peter I'm not questioning your advice. Just looking for others experiences here.

Brgds, Peter

g-50cab

My advice would be to remove the whole instake assembly - it just makes it so much easier - get the gasket set like peter advises. get some rags to stuff into the intake holes at the heads. basically the whole thing can come off as a unit.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/showt...ghlight=intake

ron mcatee

I did basically the same thing on my 88 Carrera. My cost to replace hoses was about $40. I cut off the crimped ends and put on new rubber hoses and Norma clamps. while I had it apart, I also had the injectors cleaned and flowed. They were a mess, but afterwards, the car runs like a new one. I replaced all the rubber hoses from the firewall out.

butzip

I wish I had caught this when I had the engine out to do the clutch. errrrrrrr I've decided I'll remove both lines and have them redone locally (Fluid Dynamics or Faxon Engineering) with the correct high pressure fittings etc.....

Spider - I don't know if regular hose clamps are up to the 70+ psi fuel pressures. That's how I have my 912 but it's kickin' out a whopping 3-4psi, gotta love carbs...........

Peter Zimmermann

My shop never used anything other than o.e. replacement lines. This was because of two reasons: (1) keeping the engine bay technically correct visually, and (2) the safety of the owner/driver. Anyone who strays away from what the factory built/designed is on their own, especially with something as critical as a high pressure fuel line. One of the items that I always noted, sometimes in all upper case letters, during a PPI was anything non-original with fuel lines, and that warning always included a recommendation to correct the condition with factory parts.

PorscheMD

+1

g-50cab

While I agree with Peter to an extent - my rationale is that Porsche is not the only car company on the planet to use a high pressure fuel hose. We pay the p-car tax on many items - some justified - If I was planning on running (I mean parking) my car in a concourse event - obviously the way to go would be factory.

When I talked with Amazon Hose about my hose - they inspected the existing hose and were confident the replacement they provided would FAR exceed the specs of the original hose.

What clinched the deal for me is when I saw another carrera fuel line with a tag from one of the best porsche race shops in the country on the shelf - when I talked to the owner of that shop (and I did this before turning my hose over - yes I am **** too = he responded that they send all their carrera fuel lines to Amazon - for the performance - the cost he said was just icing on the cake.

Now my mechanic - is a stickler for using porsche parts. So I can definitely see both sides of the argument.

Peter Zimmermann

Jeremy: No offense intended, I too see the other side of this discussion. However, my shop had to survive in a very litigious state, and community (L.A.), and it would have been my *** on the flagpole had I been the one to install a critical, non-Porsche part, which then failed. Also, many of my customers would have been shocked to see aeroquip, or blue fabric, or other material take the place of that black hose. Yes, I could have given them the choice in the matter (we did many of those lines), but somehow it just didn't seem worth the effort. One of the reasons for me to stick with factory lines was that those lines have a built-in warning system. Planned or not, the warning is a good thing, because long before a factory line begins to spray gasoline it will emit a fuel odor. As the line deteriorates slowly over time the flex part will lose some of its ability to seal, and will allow an almost imperceptible amount of gas to make it into the engine bay (usually after cool down is complete following driving), and the car owner will smell the fumes. My secretary/office manager used to diagnose that problem on the phone! We maintained so many 3.2 cars that I had a bin for a "kit", both the lines in this thread, replacement gaskets, even the updated flat washers used under the manifold nuts.

By the way, on your beautifully customized engine, somehow the aeroquip looks "right!"

g-50cab

And that's the same argument I get from my wrench - and I understand 1000% of where he is coming from.

His response is always (in german accent) - if you do it, it's one thing, but for me to go that route - it opens up the can for all sorts of other issues. With Porsche I know what I am dealing with. It might cost a little more - but I sleep better and know I didn't put my business is jeapordy.