Project #2: Leaky Hoses------Found Part #s!!!
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 1,106
Likes: 0
From: Santa Barbara, California
Ok so upon further inspection, I can see that all of the 5 part numbers I listed, which the mechanic said were about to explode, have no apparent leaks. However I did find that a hose is leaking that he did not mention. I was told of this hose when I bought the car but its not a huge problem. Its a 90 dollar hose but I figure as long as my car is drained of oil and I am at it, I should change it. Looks like it might be a hard one to wrench though, I may not have the experience since this hose goes straight into the engine. Hope the pictures make it a little more clear. As for the other 5 hoses, I plan to remove them (if I get any tips on how to get these darn this apart) and clean them with simple green and do a really close inspection to see if they need replacing.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 1,056
Likes: 1
15 inches is child's play. You need a bigger (longer) wrench. The old fashioned way to do it is an iron pipe slipped over the end of the wrench (aka a cheater pipe). You can go to the hardware store and buy a 3 ft piece of iron pipe big enough to slip over whatever wrench you're using. But, be aware that you need the room to use it (enough clearance between car and ground). If the nut is not at the right angle, and you can't get the car high enough, 3 feet of wrench is useless.
Brett
Brett
Pro
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 562
Likes: 1
From: Newcastle, WA
Get rid of the crescent wrench. Go to Napa auto and buy the correct sized wrenches. I think you need a 36 and either a 30 or 32. Use some pentrating oil on it and possibly some heat. It'll come off. Good luck!
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 1,106
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From: Santa Barbara, California
Ok I will try to return the crescent wrench and buy the correct size wrenches (probably not a set but just the ones I need since I don't use large wrenches too often). Any ideas about whether I should attempt to change the piple line that has the orange makeshift repair on it? It goes straight into the engine and it looks like it'll be a difficult fix. Does it just LOOK difficult or is it actually difficult?
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Joined: May 2002
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sorry but I'm not in the "spend money on big wrenches you'll use twice" camp
but money is in fact, your money.
torch, dremmel, pipe wrench, and cheater. I've used this for evey line on the car
that orange thing is just a keeper, or stand off if you want to call it that. there's no union there that i know of
but money is in fact, your money.
torch, dremmel, pipe wrench, and cheater. I've used this for evey line on the car
that orange thing is just a keeper, or stand off if you want to call it that. there's no union there that i know of
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Racer
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 361
Likes: 0
From: Toledo, OH
use the 15" crescent to counterhold the hardline. use a wrench with extension on the softline. sit on your butt, legs straight and pull/push. it'll let go about the time you think you'll have a hernia.
the orange piece just collects the oil from the soft line union and blow back from valve covers/oil tubes/heads... my rubber piece there just crumbled from being hard and oil soaked.
the orange piece just collects the oil from the soft line union and blow back from valve covers/oil tubes/heads... my rubber piece there just crumbled from being hard and oil soaked.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 1,106
Likes: 0
From: Santa Barbara, California
Originally Posted by dsmith
the orange piece just collects the oil from the soft line union and blow back from valve covers/oil tubes/heads... my rubber piece there just crumbled from being hard and oil soaked.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 1,106
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From: Santa Barbara, California
I used my jack extension and it popped open just as I was about to have a hernia. That was tough. Problem now is that it just keeps turning, I think it just doesnt have the clearance to pop out so it just keeps turning. I tried to disconnect it from the other end but this situation is even trickier. As you can see in the picture which I got from Pelican Parts if you torque the screw, the whole unit begins to rotate, I cant clamp another wrench on the thermostat to prevent it from rotating as I torque the line. Any tips anyone? (Ignore the white arrow in the picture) 
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 1,106
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From: Santa Barbara, California
didnt need the pipe wrench after all, got those two hoses off, now for the rubber hoses to the oil cooler, the big fatty suction hose, and the scary hardline to the side of the engine.....ill update when im done
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 1,106
Likes: 0
From: Santa Barbara, California
I got my extreme simple green today and I figured I would clean the thermostat and right rear wheel well while I was working in that area......took my so many hours and I didnt even get it perfectly clean. 
ok so I need to take off the front wheel to get the oil cooler rubber hoses out. As for the pressure pipe that runs into the engine case, I have no idea how to get that pipe out because the heat exchangers make it impossible to get a wrench into that area......guess I won't be changing that pipe?
ok so I need to take off the front wheel to get the oil cooler rubber hoses out. As for the pressure pipe that runs into the engine case, I have no idea how to get that pipe out because the heat exchangers make it impossible to get a wrench into that area......guess I won't be changing that pipe?
Pro
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 562
Likes: 1
From: Newcastle, WA
Yup, you can't take that pipe out without removing the HE's. I wouldn't change an oil line just for the sake of changing it though. Just change 'em if they're broken. But I can tell you are having fun, and that is what it's all about. 