oil level in red when driving
05-05-2007, 07:49 PM
#1
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oil level in red when driving
Hello everybody, I just did my first oil change in my 87 Targa and some things are concerning me. I’m not sure but I think the guy who owned the car before me used 10w-40 m1 in the car but from what I have read on this board and other places I have switched back to 0w-40. I bought 13 qt of oil but the car only called for about 11 maybe 11 and half. Although when I check the dip stick its read just under the full dot on the stick. I did check it with the car running and warmed up.
Now when I drive it the oil level gauge is in the red or shows the oil level to be low on start up but I’m sure is normal until warm up. But the needle doesn’t climb as fast as it did before the oil change. Before the gauge would climb pretty quickly as I let it warm up. Now it usually sits a little under the half way mark when I’m at a stop light, but when I leave the light now fast but not gunning it, the needle drops to the red again and stays there until I get to another light or at a cruising speed. It also drops and bounces around in corners or on freeway on ramps. It never bounced around or dropped before I changed the oil, so I’m wondering is it the thin oil I put in the car? Or is it that I don’t have enough oil in the car right now? Also I think there was too much oil in the car before due to me checking it when the engine was off and cold.
I know this is long but thanks for your guy’s time and help.
Keith
Now when I drive it the oil level gauge is in the red or shows the oil level to be low on start up but I’m sure is normal until warm up. But the needle doesn’t climb as fast as it did before the oil change. Before the gauge would climb pretty quickly as I let it warm up. Now it usually sits a little under the half way mark when I’m at a stop light, but when I leave the light now fast but not gunning it, the needle drops to the red again and stays there until I get to another light or at a cruising speed. It also drops and bounces around in corners or on freeway on ramps. It never bounced around or dropped before I changed the oil, so I’m wondering is it the thin oil I put in the car? Or is it that I don’t have enough oil in the car right now? Also I think there was too much oil in the car before due to me checking it when the engine was off and cold.
I know this is long but thanks for your guy’s time and help.
Keith
05-05-2007, 07:58 PM
#2
Team Owner
welcome aboard and no posts are allowed without pics :-)
It could b a function of your very thin oil, I run 20w50 .. you neglected to state your model or year , not that it really matters but it helps. There are a couple of important points.
1. The dipstick is the only true measure .. on level ground, fully warmed up, with car running.
2. The guage IF acurate is only a measure of the oil in the oil tank and again is only usefull while the engine is at idle fully warmed up. The car acceling or deceling or in corners will change the oil reading in the tank ... and why are you looking anyway .. you should be watching the road !!!!
remmemer the viscosity your running also will depend on where you are ... I personally would NEVER run a 0W- 40 in an air cooled car unless I was living next door to Der Mond ( In Alaska ) .. but hey, that's just me .. the manual may state other wise. I live in Canada and run 20W50.. I would imagine a thin oil would make the guage more erratic , it just makes sense...
ice
besides THIS is bouncing ......
http://vids.myspace.com/index.cfm?fu...oid=1202081427
It could b a function of your very thin oil, I run 20w50 .. you neglected to state your model or year , not that it really matters but it helps. There are a couple of important points.
1. The dipstick is the only true measure .. on level ground, fully warmed up, with car running.
2. The guage IF acurate is only a measure of the oil in the oil tank and again is only usefull while the engine is at idle fully warmed up. The car acceling or deceling or in corners will change the oil reading in the tank ... and why are you looking anyway .. you should be watching the road !!!!
remmemer the viscosity your running also will depend on where you are ... I personally would NEVER run a 0W- 40 in an air cooled car unless I was living next door to Der Mond ( In Alaska ) .. but hey, that's just me .. the manual may state other wise. I live in Canada and run 20W50.. I would imagine a thin oil would make the guage more erratic , it just makes sense...
ice
besides THIS is bouncing ......
http://vids.myspace.com/index.cfm?fu...oid=1202081427
05-05-2007, 08:01 PM
#3
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Sounds about normal to me as far as regular street driving. The bouncing is not something I have seen. Main thing--normal operating temp and 1/2 level on dip stick is where I always try to be. Bill
05-05-2007, 08:40 PM
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I second Ice about the oil gage. It is a POS anyways. If I knew better I'd move it for a better "boost" gage...but seeing as I don't have a forced air induction I'm screwed on that idea. ^_^
Ice, your video is good. Your p-car sound very nice. I have a screwy idle at start up. Goes away after about 2 minutes.
Ice, your video is good. Your p-car sound very nice. I have a screwy idle at start up. Goes away after about 2 minutes.
05-06-2007, 01:07 AM
#6
Team Owner
Hi Keith
I think Brett lives in San Diego so lets see what his is running. My initial instinct is to say a 0 weight oil is way to thin, but Brett would have a much better idea.
rentadate , I wonder if it is your warm up regulator .. but looking at the price of those things .. if you can lve with your idle..... .well..... may be a good idea to throw on a fuel pressure gage though , just out of curiosity.
I think Brett lives in San Diego so lets see what his is running. My initial instinct is to say a 0 weight oil is way to thin, but Brett would have a much better idea.
rentadate , I wonder if it is your warm up regulator .. but looking at the price of those things .. if you can lve with your idle..... .well..... may be a good idea to throw on a fuel pressure gage though , just out of curiosity.
05-06-2007, 10:24 AM
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my gauge and dipstick have both consistently reported about a 1,000 miles/qt rate of consumption, i've begun to trust the gauge which is kinda nice...
after a fresh topping off mine is solid at the top at idle, declines nearly to red on heavy accel and will hold at about 45% during cruising. the readings tend to gradually get lower until it's in the red much more and not far over 50% at idle. by this time the stick has gone from 75% down to between 25% and 10% (in relation to the 2 marks on stick)
after a fresh topping off mine is solid at the top at idle, declines nearly to red on heavy accel and will hold at about 45% during cruising. the readings tend to gradually get lower until it's in the red much more and not far over 50% at idle. by this time the stick has gone from 75% down to between 25% and 10% (in relation to the 2 marks on stick)
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05-06-2007, 12:09 PM
#8
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There are, in my logical reasoning, two reasons why the gauge "jumps down" at times.
1. Acceling and Deceling cause and inertial flow of the oil in the tank, making the reading go up and down. Just like a passenger flies through a windshield when not wearing a seatbelt in a crash, so does your oil jump forward in the tank.....depending on how the oil level is measured acceling and deceling can effect the reading.
2. As you drive oil is being pumped to the engine so as you accelerate the oil level drops.
This was a concern of mine when I first bought my 87 911 Cab. I called my mechanic and he kinda just giggled at my scared tone of voice.
However if I were you I would switch to regular 20W50 oil.....its very versatile and perfect for southern californians. I live in LA where temps range from 50-115 and I never have oil/heat problems with my engine.
1. Acceling and Deceling cause and inertial flow of the oil in the tank, making the reading go up and down. Just like a passenger flies through a windshield when not wearing a seatbelt in a crash, so does your oil jump forward in the tank.....depending on how the oil level is measured acceling and deceling can effect the reading.
2. As you drive oil is being pumped to the engine so as you accelerate the oil level drops.
This was a concern of mine when I first bought my 87 911 Cab. I called my mechanic and he kinda just giggled at my scared tone of voice.
However if I were you I would switch to regular 20W50 oil.....its very versatile and perfect for southern californians. I live in LA where temps range from 50-115 and I never have oil/heat problems with my engine.
05-06-2007, 01:13 PM
#9
Rennlist Member
kwil966, I think you should be using Mobil 1 15w50 if you continue with a synthetic and an oil such as Valvoline 20w50 VR1 Racing oil if a Dino oil. However, assuming you have no leaks and change to a dino oil and then want to change back to synthetic, leaks may occur. My recommendation is to go with Mobil 1 15w50 due to your climate. Here in south Texas I use Valvolind 20w50 VR 1 and it works very well in this heat.
05-06-2007, 01:45 PM
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i use 0w-40 M1 in Houston, but I've been looking at Brad Penn 20w-50. may get a couple cases to try. i noticed the same thing with my oil level, when it's below the full mark, which it always is. i also noticed that when it doesn't move anymore (in the red always), it's about time to add a quart.
yea, ice, mine doesn't do that!
David
yea, ice, mine doesn't do that!
David
05-06-2007, 03:12 PM
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Ok, I'll admit it, I'm an OLD guy (Hey, I was around when the dinosaurs were TURNING INTO OIL!) restoring my first P car. So could someone explain to me the reasoning why ANYONE would run a zero weight (IE: 0-40_0-50 etc.) oil in ANY car (air or water cooled) that is not operating in FRIGID temperatures?
05-06-2007, 03:23 PM
#13
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well ok looks like i should go buy some new oil. i was using the 0w-40 becase thats what the dealer told me to use but it just dosent seem right to be ether. Do you guys think it would be ok to use the same oil filter seeing how it only has say 160 miles on it.
05-06-2007, 08:34 PM
#15
RL Technical Advisor
Originally Posted by mo_gearhead
Ok, I'll admit it, I'm an OLD guy (Hey, I was around when the dinosaurs were TURNING INTO OIL!) restoring my first P car. So could someone explain to me the reasoning why ANYONE would run a zero weight (IE: 0-40_0-50 etc.) oil in ANY car (air or water cooled) that is not operating in FRIGID temperatures?
There are many valid reasons to use 0w-40 but not in air-cooled engines (996 motors need it to run the VarioCam). Stick with a 15w-40, 15w-50 or a good 20w-50 for these motors unless the bearing clearances have been specifically set up for thin oils.
BTW, those NASCAR Nextel Cup motors run 0w-10 or lighter during their races but thats done for maximum HP, not longevity and these are specifically configured for that.