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Oil Tank Drain Plug-----Grip of Death?!

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Old 05-05-2007, 01:27 AM
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Oshin11
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Default Oil Tank Drain Plug-----Grip of Death?!

Ok so I got my car on stands using the nifty jack pad. then I got down to business. Warmed up the car to a nice hot temp, then I grabbed a socket wrench to go for the drain plug after the car was shut off. I think my mechanic is the incredible hulk because I could not get that drain plug opened if my life depended on it. I'm not the strongest guy in the world but I am definitely a fairly strong guy. Is this plug supposed to be this tight? The wrench is starting to slip and I dont want to strip the plug, what should I do?
Old 05-05-2007, 02:12 AM
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r911
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no - shouldn't be that tight

Remove the fill plug FIRST - if it won't come out then don't drain the oil or you'll have an undriveable car

clean out all the dirt in the corners of the plug's "socket" - check to be sure your Allen tool is sharp - spray Kroil or pb Blaster liberally around the threads, then tap the plug repeatedly; repeat every hour for a few days, then try again - use impact if you have it - may need to use a propane or MAPP torch

can use anti-sieze on the threads when you re-install -- they are pipe threads so no need to be real tight

search on Pelican under drain plug for many threads & tips

Last edited by r911; 05-05-2007 at 02:31 AM.
Old 05-05-2007, 02:53 AM
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Brett San Diego
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I believe he's talking about the motor oil drain plug, not the transmission drain plug (which is usually the one that is stuck). Oshin, get a bigger wrench (or a pipe). This is what breaker bars (or cheater pipes) are for. No, it should not be that tight.

Good luck. If you round off the bolt, then you'll just have to be more creative. Someone else will have a better suggestion in the worst case scenario.

Brett
Old 05-05-2007, 03:13 AM
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lfe132
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Oshin11, use a nice long breaker bar or maybe heat up the thread area with propane torch. Your in Glendale, I'm in Sun Valley, probably 15 minutes away. If you need help give me a call 661-478-6982 ask for Larry.
Old 05-05-2007, 09:38 AM
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theiceman
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righty tighty lefty loosy .... remember you are upside down .... may be really insulting , but rather that and you flame me and you double check rather than wreck your car ...

beyond that make sure you are using a high quality wrench .., you can tap on the plug with a brass hammer , and when you are undoing it use quick jerky motion, to " snap" the thread, you will be surprised..

ice
Old 05-05-2007, 10:50 AM
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UberXY
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This same thing happened recently on my wifes Benz. I took it to the local independent shop. The mechanic put the car on the lift, welded a six inch steel rod across the top of the drain bolt, and tapped the rod with a hammer. Fixed in 15 minutes, and then he installed a new bolt.

I am sure the local MB shop would have raised the engine up and installed a new sump, a fix that would have cost over $1k.

Steve
84 Targa
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00 M5
Old 05-05-2007, 11:53 AM
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Oshin11
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Iceman: Of course righty tighty lefty loosey (I do is as I would if I were under the car looking at the bolty and going lefty loosey, which is how I would expect it to be). I will try tapping it with a hammer and trying a quick jerk but at this point I think I need a new bolt becuase the old one is stripping. I'll probably empty the oil and reorder the new bolt today.
Old 05-05-2007, 12:18 PM
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glenncof
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This is a pet peeve of mine and why I hate to have mechanics work on my car...

Couple of things...use a 6 point socket (not 12) with breaker bar. First check play of socket. If you think it's too loose consider using an adjustable wrench. Another thing is look for a tighter English socket (1" = 25.4mm). Sears may have sockets/wrenches for stripped bolt heads.

I had same problem using my 3/8" breaker bar. For ~$10 at some chain prats stores (mine was pepboys) you can get a 18" long 1/2" breaker bar. 24" also available if you need to do your outer CV joint. Yes this comes in handy and I should have had one many years ago.
Old 05-05-2007, 01:54 PM
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ga
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don't forget to change the washers on the sump & engine plug.
ga
Old 05-05-2007, 02:39 PM
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KCPSG
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once you get it out, install one of these...makes oil changes very nice. http://www.fumotovalve.com/
Old 05-05-2007, 07:09 PM
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Oshin11
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One 15" swivel tip breaker bar later my engine is completely drained of oil I also picked up the craftsman 245 piece mechanics tool set. It was fun doing this easy job with my dad, haven't bonded with him like that in a long time . I left the car without a filter and once I clean the plugs ill put them back on without washers. I want to take car of 3 leaky hoses before I dump oil back into the engine. After that it will be turbo tie rods and a brake job
Old 05-05-2007, 07:35 PM
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Don't put them back on without washers, use copper washers and do not over torque or you will be back where you started after a few heat cycles.. the hoses will be a piece of cake and there will be one major job out of the way.

The turbo tie rods is a fun one , but you will proably ned an alignment when you are done. Check the rubber bushings in your front sway bar while you have it in the air, this is a good one to do while you are doing the tie rod ends as you have the belly pan off anyway which holds half the bracket for these bushings, and dropping the way bar out of the way will make the tie rod ends a lot easier... make sure you get a Lemfoerder tie rod kit as I have heard the knock off's have been having issues.
Old 05-06-2007, 12:15 PM
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Oshin11
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Hey Iceman, I need a front end alignment anyway its SOOO bad on my car, my steering wheel is cocked way to the left so I am not worried about the alignment. The tie rod ends are really bad too so this isnt just a project I am doing for fun its an upgrade that should be done now. The hoses should be a piece of cake? Then why was the mechanic who said 5 hoses need to be replaced telling me that it was going to be $350 in labor? Haha. I actually dont know which hoses need to be replaced but I will make a separate post about the small description the mechanic gave me. I'll give the rubber bushings a look at too. I'll probably do the hoses before the tie rods since the car has no oil in it right now, making it easier to tinker with hoses. I'll try to take some pictures and make a post. And yes I do have new washers. Is it ok to leave the car sitting with no oil? The oil filter is off too, is that bad? should I put a bag around it? around the oil tank drain hole too?
Old 05-06-2007, 03:14 PM
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Daniel Dudley
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It is OK to let it sit without oil as long as you don't turn the key. It happens.
Old 05-06-2007, 03:25 PM
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mo_gearhead
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I second Daniels thought!. ANYTIME you have the oil drained and have to leave it for a few days, TAPE A NOTE to the steering wheel or OVER the ignition switch, just to be safe. A second party could try to start the car ...for who knows what reason?? Be safe.


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