suspension expert in nh/ma?
#1
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I have a 1987 911 targa with 142k mi. For years, I have been experiencing excessive front tire wear on the innermost rib of each front tire. The rib wears out at approx. 10k miles. The rest of the tire is perfect. I have tried adjusting the toe and installing a bump steer kit. Doesn't seem to help.
This year I have noticed two new problems:
When the steering when is turned all the way in either direction, the car starts to "jump" or "hop" at low speeds (similar to the feeling of leaving a truck in four wheel drive on a dry road when turning a corner)
Also, when gliding/slowing to a stop, I hear a rubbing/scraping noise coming from the front end and ocassionally I can feel a vibration that seems to be coming right up the steering colum into the steering wheel.
I need to replace the front tires(again) this spring and I plan on replacing the front struts/shocks.
I live in the seacoast nh/northshore mass. area. Does anyone know of an expert that might be able to provide a fresh perspective on this problem? Any thoughts would be appreciated. Thanks
This year I have noticed two new problems:
When the steering when is turned all the way in either direction, the car starts to "jump" or "hop" at low speeds (similar to the feeling of leaving a truck in four wheel drive on a dry road when turning a corner)
Also, when gliding/slowing to a stop, I hear a rubbing/scraping noise coming from the front end and ocassionally I can feel a vibration that seems to be coming right up the steering colum into the steering wheel.
I need to replace the front tires(again) this spring and I plan on replacing the front struts/shocks.
I live in the seacoast nh/northshore mass. area. Does anyone know of an expert that might be able to provide a fresh perspective on this problem? Any thoughts would be appreciated. Thanks
#2
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Have you had your car profesionally aligned ? before you mentioned the grinding/vibration I would have said camber is way off. My car "scrubs" when turning a slow full lock too, I don't think that in itself is a big deal. The grinding/ vibration would worry me however and checking the wheel bearings, and other suspention points is a good place to start . A reputable alignment shop will check all this before doing any alignment and roll your car out of the bay if something is wrong before doing any alignment.
I am sure there are some local rennlisters who can refer you.
I am sure there are some local rennlisters who can refer you.
#4
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I always get the car alligned whenever I buy new tires....the shocks are original (I'm the original owner)....they were always checked at the time of each new tire purchase, and always seemed to be fine. Just recently, one has begun to exhibit signs of leaking, so both are going to be replaced
#5
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Originally Posted by johnnyg1
I always get the car alligned whenever I buy new tires....the shocks are original (I'm the original owner)....they were always checked at the time of each new tire purchase, and always seemed to be fine. Just recently, one has begun to exhibit signs of leaking, so both are going to be replaced
#6
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the front wheel bearings were replaced 20k miles ago...I agree that I need a new alignment/suspension expert...hence the request in the original post....I don't mean to sound naive, but I have checked and rechecked all of the "usual suspects" ....alignment; toe; camber; shocks; wheel bearings; brakes/pads... I think I need a fresh perspective....but where to go?
#7
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Who checked it all, and how? I go back to I find it hard to believe that 20 year old shocks with 147K were deemed ok. There are a lot of shops that "do alignments" that have no clue about how to look at or work on a P-car.
Sorry, I can't help you on local people.
Sorry, I can't help you on local people.
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#8
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Ed: I agree with your assesment about alignment shops.... but trust me... if someone had told me before now that the shocks needed to be replaced, I would have believed them and made the change... for what it's worth, the car also has the original muffler, transmission and clutch. I have never done any engine work other than routine tune ups/valve adjustments/belt replacements. The car doesn't leak a drop of fluid...and I never need to add oil between oil changes.... in short it has been freakishly reliable....maybe that's why I have been able to accept the assesment about the shocks until now(especially coming from someone who could have made money by selling me new shocks or other suspension parts)....I appreciate your comments though
#9
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I hear what you're saying, but your guy just doesn't know what he's looking at. He may've thought things were good, but trust me, these things don't go forever, or run at optimum without TLC. It is also my bet that you could use a refresh of all bushings too, if they've not been done.
I bought my '84 a few years ago with 108K. It ran great, and was fun as hell to drive. No problems or issues. But, after rebuilding my suspension, replacing shocks, rebuilding brakes, etc, it felt like a new car.
Since these cars are so well engineered, you really need to take all the variables out to ensure they are set up correctly. This usually means a few $ doing some of what I mention above. Since it was slowly wearing down/out in these areas, you probably wouldn't feel the difference as it was happening.
My car now has 130K, and since I bent some valves at the track, I'm tearing the engine down. What a shame! The thing looked clean as a whistle inside, made great power and didn't use any oil to speak of. So, your engine, barring any unforseen happenstance has a long way to go. But, it may be time for some TLC on the parts that wear.
I'm no expert, but I've been crawling around mine for about 5 years, and have seen steady improvement with rehabbing the old gal.
I bought my '84 a few years ago with 108K. It ran great, and was fun as hell to drive. No problems or issues. But, after rebuilding my suspension, replacing shocks, rebuilding brakes, etc, it felt like a new car.
Since these cars are so well engineered, you really need to take all the variables out to ensure they are set up correctly. This usually means a few $ doing some of what I mention above. Since it was slowly wearing down/out in these areas, you probably wouldn't feel the difference as it was happening.
My car now has 130K, and since I bent some valves at the track, I'm tearing the engine down. What a shame! The thing looked clean as a whistle inside, made great power and didn't use any oil to speak of. So, your engine, barring any unforseen happenstance has a long way to go. But, it may be time for some TLC on the parts that wear.
I'm no expert, but I've been crawling around mine for about 5 years, and have seen steady improvement with rehabbing the old gal.
Last edited by Ed Hughes; 05-02-2007 at 09:37 AM.
#10
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Without a doubt I would call Mark Nadler at Exotech in Plaistow, NH @ (603) 382-3599. Hands down the best guy in the area to work on Porsches.
#11
Burning Brakes
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Originally Posted by Ed Hughes
....I bought my '84 a few years ago with 108K. It ran great, and was fun as hell to drive. No problems or issues. But, after rebuilding my suspension, replacing shocks, rebuilding brakes, etc, it felt like a new car.
....I'm no expert, but I've been crawling around mine for about 5 years, and have seen steady improvement with rehabbing the old gal.
....I'm no expert, but I've been crawling around mine for about 5 years, and have seen steady improvement with rehabbing the old gal.
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Keith
'88 CE coupe
#13
Drifting
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If everything is original - then that is where I would start - 147k miles and 20 years is alot when you consider that even the rubber from ozone starts breaking down. At the very least I would change brake lines (all four), shocks, and A-arm bushings. I would also switch over to turbo tie rods, definitely worth the money and you will be amazed at the transformation.