Peter Zimmermann

David: Congrats! Have a ball at the races! Oh, by the way, it only makes sense to do cams in the car after you have a stand up hoist. Also, after you do it enough times you develop an extra elbow between your wrist and the original equipment elbow. Then, after you develop the ability to bend body parts in unnatural (is that a word?) ways the the job gets easier. I like to remove the engine on SCs, it seems like when I didn't the thermostat o-ring started to leak two weeks after we did the cam o-rings!

OK, ice, your turn. You will need an engine crane to lift the unit up to a stand, or three strong guys that you have shown a case of beer to!

dsmith

i just leave it on the atv jack. i don't have the sump cover on mine, so i made a wood support that looks like # that supports the block on either side of the seam and doesn't touch the HEs. i use a floor jack under the tranny support then put a jack stand under it when out. i can get to everything on the motor this way. so, literally, i lift off the car, do my work and lower the car back down. detaching all the connections, swaybar and a/c takes about 1hr. then it takes about 15 min to remove the 4 bolts and wiggle it out. the cv joints are the only pain and that's still simple. i put bags over them and coat hanger them out of the way.

my point is that based on your level of compitence, you shouldn't let removing the drivetrain hold you up from a repair. you might spend 3-5 hrs the first time just familiarizing yourself with the process, but it's one of the easiest things to do on the car.

theiceman

Pete you have any idea how expensive beer is here ? .... a crane would be cheaper ... \

David I think I can do it , I just want to make sure I undrstand the process before starting.. I don't have a car elevarion jack ( yet ) .. SO if your leaving the transmision in held up by a jackstand why do oyu worry about CV joints ? I think I am missing something. I though the idea of leaving the transmision in was to keep all that intact .... maybe I need another look under my car .. I have already started soaking down the oil lines with the PB blaster as I hear this is actually the hardest part, to get those lines off..

dsmith

man, you're killing me. ok, here's the step by step for easy 911 drivetrain removal, since i'm just sitting on the couch right now, and you want to read instead of work . you were missing that i remove the tranny with motor together.

1. Interior: put car on lift, raise 2 feet, put in foward gear, detach shift coupler and speedo connector. push connector through hole. remove rear wheels.

2. Under car: detach rear sway bar, ground strap off tranny, clutch cable from tranny (remove spring assembly if you may be separating tranny/engine), throttle ball cup, heater hoses from HEs, axles from tranny.
3. drain engine oil, detach oil cooler hose and flexible to hardline hose. plug with shop towels. clean up big oil mess on floor...

4. Upper engine right: remove a/c comp (use big towels on fender and bungee down under wheel well). detach 2 oil hoses and plug with shop towels.

5. Upper engine left: detach cruise control from throttle, i remove the big plastic blower hose thing, detach engine harness connectors (includes one at rear of motor), vacuum hose to airbox, upper line to fuel filter, lower line to accumulator (i put shop rags below these to help soak up fuel, but it dries pretty quick), two other lines in rear left, o2 sensor plug.

6. slide atv jack under engine and floor jack under tranny mount. remove engine mount bolts and tranny mount bolts. lift car off wiggling it around to clear rear car and tranny input shaft and checking for any other connections. replace floor jack with jack stand under tranny mount.

theiceman

oKay got it .. now to just earmark this thread until I get the gear together ....

Thanks guys ..

Peter Zimmermann

ice: When you leave the trans in you don't disconnect the sway bar or the axles. Both move enough to allow the engine to be dropped down to the removal angle. That said, you will have to remove the wire harness, for the reverse lights, at the switch on the nose of the trans. You probably already know where that is from when you painted your forward trans mount b... well, that's another story. Also, you will have to loosen the clutch bowden tube using the two, thin, 15mm wrench size nuts at the holder, and disconnect the cable at its hook end. Once you do that use a big screwdriver to take the tension off the omega spring, and remove it together with the long clutch release arm, after removing the short arm and circlip. You might want to spray the large arm with penetrant, where it fits on to the T.O. fork shaft, hopefully the last guy put grease on it so you'll be able to remove it. Disconnect the two large heater hoses at the heat exchangers, disconnect the wires from the starter (battery ground strap off!), but leave the starter attached to the bell housing with its lower nut. A little trick that you might find helpful. While you're under the car loosen and remove the upper starter nut and washer, then loosen and remove the opposite, lower nut and washer, which should be 15mm wrench size (this makes final disconnect procedure easier - taking that upper starter nut off while lying on top of the engine is no fun). Take the oil out of the reservoir and engine, disconnect your "S" hose from the reservoir, and disconnect your large oil hose from the all metal line on the engine. Now you're ready to do the stuff inside the engine compartment. Should you decide to accept this mission...

theiceman

Man you guys remember EVERYTHING.... hey so I had some Toronto Maple Leaf paint left over from painting out the Stanley cup parade route !!! .. okay so I'll paint it black ..

I just have to save a few funds for the "while your in there stuff"... ATV JAck .. engine stands, etc..

dsmith

Here's some pics. you can see how the engine sits on the atv jack for easy access. that was in my shop, but you get the idea. there's a pick of the scissor lift in my garage, the race car prep, pics of the first race, pics of my old RX7, etc.

http://www.angelfire.com/tx3/webtesting/Race911sc.html

David