My door panels are off and everything seems to be getting power. I'm afraid to remove the motors without more info.

The exploded diagrams don't show me how things fit together, gear tooth alignment, etc. Additionally, at this point I would rather just manually lower my windows and go to the track instead of removing the motors before new ones have even been ordered.

I guess we are the pioneers on this problem...

 

I have definately thought about going manual, but of course that would require new door panels as there are holes in the current ones for the switches.

 

Any idea of the cost for manual cranks? I would consider new panels if the rest is affordable.

 

Well, according to Pelican Parts, $35.25 for 1 I believe. Then of course you have the cost of the door panels.

A new Bosch window motor is a touch over $80 per side on Pelican as well.

Certainly something to think about...

 

If you have the door panels off then you can easily apply voltage directly to the motors to test them. There is also a relay before the fuse [at least on the SC's]. The relay gets power from the run/acc circuit of the ignition switch. So with the ignition on..the relay is active and sends power to the fuse and then to the pair of switches on the drivers door.

 

Thanks. My test light indicates that both connectors on the bottom of each motor are hot.

I'm no electrician, but my guess is that the switches merely ground the motor for whichever direction the window needs to move.

If power is getting to each motor, I should verify the ground wire is grounded properly. If it is, then I guess the motors are fried. They did die one at a time, and this was back when my alternator was spiking voltage so badly that both fog lights blew.

Let me know if I'm missing something here.

Also, if I unbolt the motor I suppose that window will instantly drop to it's lowest position, right? There must be a technique to the motor removal and reinstallation to make sure the gear teeth are lined up correctly.

I still wish I could just manually crank the glass down until I get to the bottom of this electrical problem. I can't go to the track with the window stuck in the closed position and I live only 25 minutes from Summit Point.

 

I still wish I could manually lower the glass until I resolve this electrical problem. I can't go to the track with the windows stuck in the closed position and I live only 25 minutes from Summit Point.

Can anyone show me a picture of the old window "straps" I've heard about? I'm wondering if I should try something like that while I test and order new motors.