Converting Early 911 Trailing Arms
#1
Race Car
Thread Starter
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I have a good friend with a '74 tub, converted to a VERY nice Slantnose/wide body. Recently, his camber/toe adjusters loosened up and he drove around for awhile like this.
It wore egg-shaped holes in the trailing arm and it is in need of replacement.
The question is, as this is a '74 with original trailing arms, what are our options?
He is considering upgrading to the '75 a later trailing arms or even TURBO trailing arms due to the widebody conversion - what is the feasibility of this conversion, if any?![Confused](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/confused.gif)
Thanks for your help in advance, I no longer have my SC so a lot of that stuff has left the memory banks!
It wore egg-shaped holes in the trailing arm and it is in need of replacement.
The question is, as this is a '74 with original trailing arms, what are our options?
He is considering upgrading to the '75 a later trailing arms or even TURBO trailing arms due to the widebody conversion - what is the feasibility of this conversion, if any?
![Confused](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/confused.gif)
Thanks for your help in advance, I no longer have my SC so a lot of that stuff has left the memory banks!
![Big Grin](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
#2
Instructor
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Southwest Missouri
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If I recall correctly, adding later rear suspension arms will necessitate welding in re-located rear mounting points? I think the later arms are slightly shorter and so the positioning is slightly "out and up" to bring them into correct relationship. Someone else confirm this please.
#3
RL Technical Advisor
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Jeff:
Two options:
1) Install ANY 911 aluminum trailing arms; the later ones simply need different rear swaybar droplinks
2) Install 930 trailing arms which require different mount points on the torsion-bar tube. This can be done either by installing a 930 one, welding in Camber Boxes, or VERY carefully measuring a 930 and modifying the stock mounts to suit. Regardless, this is now a VERY expensive upgrade due to the cost of 930 arms and the associated mods.
Two options:
1) Install ANY 911 aluminum trailing arms; the later ones simply need different rear swaybar droplinks
2) Install 930 trailing arms which require different mount points on the torsion-bar tube. This can be done either by installing a 930 one, welding in Camber Boxes, or VERY carefully measuring a 930 and modifying the stock mounts to suit. Regardless, this is now a VERY expensive upgrade due to the cost of 930 arms and the associated mods.
#4
Race Car
Thread Starter
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Steve, good to "see" you, it's been awhile. ![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
I am STILL in love with my Motons.![Wink](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/wink.gif)
So, what you're saying is option 1 is the way to go with regards to less work and $$$$$$$...I understand.
Allow me to clarify, you are saying we can purchase trailing arms from a 911S, 911SC or 911 Carrera 'till 1989 vintage and they will fit, only a different rear swaybar link must be used?? If so, this is good news.
Anyone else have their support, or doubts on this?![Confused](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/confused.gif)
With regards to springplates, does anyone use the Elephant Racing 4-link type design or are the ERP (Smart Racing) ones still the ticket? Again, it's been awhile since I've tinkered with a pre-'89 car...so your help/advice is much appreciated.
![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
I am STILL in love with my Motons.
![Wink](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/wink.gif)
So, what you're saying is option 1 is the way to go with regards to less work and $$$$$$$...I understand.
Allow me to clarify, you are saying we can purchase trailing arms from a 911S, 911SC or 911 Carrera 'till 1989 vintage and they will fit, only a different rear swaybar link must be used?? If so, this is good news.
Anyone else have their support, or doubts on this?
![Confused](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/confused.gif)
With regards to springplates, does anyone use the Elephant Racing 4-link type design or are the ERP (Smart Racing) ones still the ticket? Again, it's been awhile since I've tinkered with a pre-'89 car...so your help/advice is much appreciated.
#5
RL Technical Advisor
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Hey Mr. Jeff:
Indeed, it has been too long, and I'm very pleased that the Motons worked out,...
They are really the "Bee's Knees",.....
Option #1 is FAR less $$$ than # 2, for sure.
I've not used the new ER springplates yet, but I do have the Wevo ones on my own car and I like them very much. While not cheap, they are VERY well made and very smooth.
Indeed, it has been too long, and I'm very pleased that the Motons worked out,...
![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
Option #1 is FAR less $$$ than # 2, for sure.
I've not used the new ER springplates yet, but I do have the Wevo ones on my own car and I like them very much. While not cheap, they are VERY well made and very smooth.
#6
Rennlist Member
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Hey Jeff and everyone, thanks so much for your help!
I just joined and saw this...
...this question was about me, actually.
Is there any alternative to replacing the rear trailing arm, since the only thing messed up is just the alignment spot to set the toe & camber?
I saw this 'ASP' from Elephant Racing that seems to by-pass these.
Are trailing arms ever repaired or is there a racing version?
I still have torsen bars though, so I don't think any 935 style stuff will work.
I sure miss racing my car!
Marc
I just joined and saw this...
...this question was about me, actually.
Is there any alternative to replacing the rear trailing arm, since the only thing messed up is just the alignment spot to set the toe & camber?
I saw this 'ASP' from Elephant Racing that seems to by-pass these.
Are trailing arms ever repaired or is there a racing version?
I still have torsen bars though, so I don't think any 935 style stuff will work.
I sure miss racing my car!
Marc
#7
RL Technical Advisor
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Marc:
Your options are:
1) Weld and remachine your trailing arms as required.
2) Replace them with SC or Carrera ones (new rear swaybar droplinks needed)
Racing versions either eliminate torsion bars and/or utilize monoballs and products like that are not for everyone.
Your options are:
1) Weld and remachine your trailing arms as required.
2) Replace them with SC or Carrera ones (new rear swaybar droplinks needed)
Racing versions either eliminate torsion bars and/or utilize monoballs and products like that are not for everyone.
![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
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#8
Rennlist Member
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Hello.
I do have monoballs and stuff like that, run Hoosier R35a's and Avon slicks, etc.
I'm really open to anything, just trying to understand what's out there.
Would prefer to upgrade vs. just fixing.
Thanks again,
Marc
I do have monoballs and stuff like that, run Hoosier R35a's and Avon slicks, etc.
I'm really open to anything, just trying to understand what's out there.
Would prefer to upgrade vs. just fixing.
Thanks again,
Marc
#9
Race Car
Thread Starter
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Sounds like SC trailing arms are our option there Marcus.
WHERE do you have monoballs on your suspension??![Confused](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/confused.gif)
To clarify, Marc had part of his rear suspension loosen up and one could visually see that he had POSITIVE camber settings on one side. Further inspection revealed that the adjustments and/or securing bolts had slightly loosened up and allowed the arm to move about, "egging" out the eccentric adjustment holes, rendering the arm pretty much useless.
WHERE do you have monoballs on your suspension??
![Confused](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/confused.gif)
To clarify, Marc had part of his rear suspension loosen up and one could visually see that he had POSITIVE camber settings on one side. Further inspection revealed that the adjustments and/or securing bolts had slightly loosened up and allowed the arm to move about, "egging" out the eccentric adjustment holes, rendering the arm pretty much useless.