Advice on Anti Roll Bar install
04-05-2007, 05:41 PM
#1
Race Car
Thread Starter
Advice on Anti Roll Bar install
Hey All,
I'm putting in my front and then rear Smart Racing Anti Roll Bars this weekend.
Any tips?
It's freaking me out that I have to drill large holes in the body.
Thanks
Rod
I'm putting in my front and then rear Smart Racing Anti Roll Bars this weekend.
Any tips?
It's freaking me out that I have to drill large holes in the body.
Thanks
Rod
04-05-2007, 09:00 PM
#2
Racer
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The bar is big, and needs to be located carefully. Too far forward, and it will hit the tank. Too far back, and it will rub the bulkhead. But fear not, once you have the gas tank out it will be easy to calculate where it needs to go.
04-06-2007, 08:31 AM
#3
Burning Brakes
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You do not have to guess where the bar goes. There will be a template on the wheel well sheetmetal. The metal was stamped in all of my cars, a 77, 78 and 83, so I'm sure it will be on yours too.
It is in the shape of the original triangular mount, with the circle in the center. My advice is to grind off any undercoating around the mount before drilling. I used a standard metal hole bit from home depot. Can't remember if it was a 1 1/2 inch or something like that. Your instructions should indicate the correct size, or look at the inside diameter of the brackets. You will need to file the edges a bit too.
This is a 3 on the scale of 1 to 10 of difficulty. The biggest issues are the 'idea' of cutting sheetmetal and getting the tank screws out without stripping them (so spray them with PB blaster first).
Good luck!
It is in the shape of the original triangular mount, with the circle in the center. My advice is to grind off any undercoating around the mount before drilling. I used a standard metal hole bit from home depot. Can't remember if it was a 1 1/2 inch or something like that. Your instructions should indicate the correct size, or look at the inside diameter of the brackets. You will need to file the edges a bit too.
This is a 3 on the scale of 1 to 10 of difficulty. The biggest issues are the 'idea' of cutting sheetmetal and getting the tank screws out without stripping them (so spray them with PB blaster first).
Good luck!
04-06-2007, 11:03 AM
#4
Race Car
Thread Starter
Thanks again.
The instructions say there is a template on the sheet metal.
I figure knowing my luck I'll get to that point to find "not in 1986". LOL
So the bar actually will fit inside the car?
My instructions came with pictures for assembly, but non of an actual install.
I still can't figure out where the drop links attach to the car.
I'll do a search here and see if there any pics.
Off to the garage I go.
Sounds like I'll be busy this weekend.
Rod
The instructions say there is a template on the sheet metal.
I figure knowing my luck I'll get to that point to find "not in 1986". LOL
So the bar actually will fit inside the car?
My instructions came with pictures for assembly, but non of an actual install.
I still can't figure out where the drop links attach to the car.
I'll do a search here and see if there any pics.
Off to the garage I go.
Sounds like I'll be busy this weekend.
Rod
04-06-2007, 02:49 PM
#5
Burning Brakes
Join Date: Jul 2001
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Drop links attach via a clamp to the a-arm, the angled, round piece, in front of the wheel.
The bar fits between the tank and the firewall. Once you remove the tank it will all make sense.
The bar fits between the tank and the firewall. Once you remove the tank it will all make sense.
04-06-2007, 09:41 PM
#6
Race Car
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by MarkM
Drop links attach via a clamp to the a-arm, the angled, round piece, in front of the wheel.
The bar fits between the tank and the firewall. Once you remove the tank it will all make sense.
The bar fits between the tank and the firewall. Once you remove the tank it will all make sense.
The tank insn't out yet. Almost.
Is the template to drll out the hole on the inside? I don't see anything on the outside.
Why is a 1 3/8" hole saw so rare! looks like I'll have to buy a $100 kit just for one bit!
Maybe I can drill it 1 1/4" (I have tons of bits, just not the one I need) and grind it out?
04-07-2007, 09:24 AM
#7
Racer
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The marking is visible from the outside, and inside. You'll probably need to scrub the outside clean to find it.
Drilling a hole and then enlarging it is probably a good idea. It will allow you to tune the location of the hole. As I've said, that hollow Smart sway bar is pretty darn big around. My hollow Tarret bar is centered about 1/6" back from where the factory indicated the hole should be.
Make sure you pull the tank before drilling any holes. There are wires behind it. Mangling the wires with the bit would not be good. Plus, you'll most likely need to move the wiring around a touch so it does not foul the bar.
Drilling a hole and then enlarging it is probably a good idea. It will allow you to tune the location of the hole. As I've said, that hollow Smart sway bar is pretty darn big around. My hollow Tarret bar is centered about 1/6" back from where the factory indicated the hole should be.
Make sure you pull the tank before drilling any holes. There are wires behind it. Mangling the wires with the bit would not be good. Plus, you'll most likely need to move the wiring around a touch so it does not foul the bar.
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04-07-2007, 11:05 AM
#8
Race Car
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by Capt. Carrera
The marking is visible from the outside, and inside. You'll probably need to scrub the outside clean to find it.
Drilling a hole and then enlarging it is probably a good idea. It will allow you to tune the location of the hole. As I've said, that hollow Smart sway bar is pretty darn big around. My hollow Tarret bar is centered about 1/6" back from where the factory indicated the hole should be.
Make sure you pull the tank before drilling any holes. There are wires behind it. Mangling the wires with the bit would not be good. Plus, you'll most likely need to move the wiring around a touch so it does not foul the bar.
Drilling a hole and then enlarging it is probably a good idea. It will allow you to tune the location of the hole. As I've said, that hollow Smart sway bar is pretty darn big around. My hollow Tarret bar is centered about 1/6" back from where the factory indicated the hole should be.
Make sure you pull the tank before drilling any holes. There are wires behind it. Mangling the wires with the bit would not be good. Plus, you'll most likely need to move the wiring around a touch so it does not foul the bar.
So you had to move from the stock location?
My instructions are to drill a pilot hole and the drill the mounting holes using the actual mount.
No turning back after that.
04-07-2007, 05:09 PM
#9
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911 Rod,
I suspect Mark is right,. The fear of drilling a hole in your 911 is getting to you.
Do this. Drill a 1.25" hole in the stock location. Do both sides. Run a broom handle, pvc, or anything you like through the hole. (All your doing is checking clearances. Whatever you use simply needs to span side-to-side. It does not need to be 1.25” in diameter.) Using this temporary gauge, check inside the trunk and see if the bar is going to hit anything. Now you can figure out how to grind/file the hole to the final size so you optimize the available space.
I suspect Mark is right,. The fear of drilling a hole in your 911 is getting to you.
Do this. Drill a 1.25" hole in the stock location. Do both sides. Run a broom handle, pvc, or anything you like through the hole. (All your doing is checking clearances. Whatever you use simply needs to span side-to-side. It does not need to be 1.25” in diameter.) Using this temporary gauge, check inside the trunk and see if the bar is going to hit anything. Now you can figure out how to grind/file the hole to the final size so you optimize the available space.
04-08-2007, 12:23 PM
#10
Race Car
Thread Starter
Hey guys.
It was self explanitory once I got in there.
It turned out I had a 1 3/8" bit. The instructions made sense after!
I now have both brackets installed. Bar in. The bar is a little tight so I need to bend the body work a bit. I didn't do any testing with a broom handle or the gas tank. It all looks good.
Do I need to cut off the old sway bar brackets or will the drop links clear them?
I do have pics. I'll post them later.
Back at it I go!
Rod
It was self explanitory once I got in there.
It turned out I had a 1 3/8" bit. The instructions made sense after!
I now have both brackets installed. Bar in. The bar is a little tight so I need to bend the body work a bit. I didn't do any testing with a broom handle or the gas tank. It all looks good.
Do I need to cut off the old sway bar brackets or will the drop links clear them?
I do have pics. I'll post them later.
Back at it I go!
Rod
