am

Here where i'm doing the job ! The car is at the body shop completely empty.
The valve timing is almost complete , i just need the info that i asked previously to finish.
For your oil leak , i think you will have to change the big o-rings behind the cam sprockets that i just did with the rest of oil seals and gaskets , my engine was leaking from everywhere.

Behind the engine , under the black car cover , is my shark.

SeattlePorsche

am, great job on your engine rebuild!

Wayne's engine rebuild book Appendix A: cam housing to heads 18.4 ft.lbs. cyl head nuts 1st 7.4 ft.lbs, 2nd 23.5 ft.lbs.

I can't believe the Haynes was that far off. If you broke that stud going to 70 ft.lbs the snap-on stud removal tool is great and you can get it online. I have the M8x1.25mm pitch and an M10 one, but I have only needed the M8. (M8=13 mm nut/bolt)

Are you going to change the chain tensioners to pressure-fed?

Get the Wayne Dempsey book. It's only $30. I have the Porsche workshop manual and I rarely use it for torque specs. It is a good book for anatomy but the instructions always say "torque to spec." There usually is one page that has torque specs, but I always find it too late. The Wayne book is very concise. Good luck!

am

Thank's James , about the tensionners , i did'nt change them but i've redone them. About the torque of stud cam housing , it was my mistake , french is my first language and i missed that one , i made a mistake and took the torque of the cam sprockets , . But i don't like Haynes manual anyway.
Do you know about what i still miss to finish my valve alignment ?
See haynes manual on page 41 , about permissible valve travel of cylinder 1 and 4 vs crank positionning vs engine type. On my engine it's written 911/03 and in haynes manual they don't give that number and i don't know which data to take to finish this step. I'm stuck there .

SeattlePorsche

I think you are referring to a valve clearance check. If you didn't change your camshafts and they are stock, then you should be ok. For any Porsche I have read 2mm clearance is fine. Actually it is 1.5mm for intake and 2.0mm for exhaust. You should read the protocol in Wayne's book. They don't talk about it in the Porsche workshop manual or the Bentley, I think because clearance isn't an issue with stock parts. But as I recall, you take Cyl #1 to TDC, then screw down the rocker adjustment screw until the rocker touches the valve top. This is now a valve clearance of 0.00mm. Then you would turn the screw one complete revolution to the right for every 1.00mm of valve protrusion into the head. So if you turn it one and a half revolutions your valve is 1.5mm deep. Then you could slowly turn the crank over and feel for the valve contacting the piston. If it does, stop or you will bend the valve. It would take a while before you make contact with the piston. When you are at TDC the valve is over the base circle of the cam. As you turn the crankshaft and thus turn the cam, the bulge of the cam (cam lobe) interact with the rocker.

At least that is how I did it. First at 1.5mm, then at 2mm. I wasn't too worried because I have been told a 964 cam will work with an SC engine. You repeat this for Cyl #4, both intake and exhaust.

The basic idea is that you don't want the valve to make contact with the piston. If it does, then you need to figure out what is causing this.

Definitely don't just take my advice though. Read up on it in Wayne's book. If you don't have proper clearance, you will break a valve and will have to rebuild the engine. Good luck!

am

Thank you James , very well explained , it sounds logical to me.

Peter Zimmermann

Why not just look at the cam - if the rocker is on the lobe heel, and the crank pulley is on "Z1" (TDC) that's the cylinder that you're on (either #1 or #4).

Regarding intake valve lift (aka cam timing) the spec for a 2.2 T is 2.30 - 2.70 mm (2.5 mm is ideal); read on your dial indicator at overlap with .1 mm (.004") valve clearance.

Pete

am

Thank you very much too !

Peter Zimmermann

Although exceptions exist, a good rule of thumb to follow is:

Torque for...
6mm bolts/nuts = 10 - 12 lb/ft
8mm bolts/nuts = 16 - 18 lb/ft
10mm bolts/nuts - 35 lb/ft
12mm bolts/nuts - 65 lb/ft

This rule of thumb is not intended to bypass looking up specs, but if you find something way off in the ozone double check it in other literature! For instance, the crank pulley bolt on an early 911 is 12mm, but its spec is 58 lb/ft. But the outboard rear engine mount bolts are also 12mm, but their spec is 65 lb/ft. Some Porsche lit states torque for an M6 (6mm) fastener is only 1.0 mkp, which is only 7.2 lb/ft. Then there are a host of special fasteners, such as alternator pulley nuts (29 lb/ft), M14 spark plugs (18 - 22 lb/ft), crank pulley bolt for double pulley on A/C cars, also 12mm (123 lb/ft!), etc., that don't follow any rules. It also helps to know if you're working with an 8.8 bolt, a 10.9 bolt, or a 12.9 bolt (a late SC has 8mm CV joint bolts, but they're rated 12.9, and their torque is 30 lb/ft). And, Porsche made changes to fasteners over the years, so all important torque specs must be looked up.
Pete

am

Thank's again
Guys like you are a benediction for guys like me !

SeattlePorsche

Pete, how about 13mm bolts, since there are so many of those. Do you happen to know what it is in N.m? I am pretty compulsive about torque specs

Also Pete, with respect to your post on the intake valve lift, how does that come into play with checking valve/piston clearance? I know the closest distance from valve to piston isn't necessarily when the piston is at its apex. So what number mm would you suggest for am's car. Was 1.5mm intake/2.0mm exhaust correct?

Thanks,

am

SeattlePorsche

am,

What is your name by the way?

I am asking Pete the valve lift question because it might be important for your valve/piston clearance check.

am

it's Alain and by the way english is not my first language so please go easy with your explanations i'm beginning to be confused
Thank's

SeattlePorsche

Ah, bon soir Alain.

I was always in a state of confusion. Just take your time and don't proceed until you understand. That's what I did anyway.

am

C'est fait James , it's done ! 2.7mm is the best i have been able to do with the tools i had.
I've also adjusted all the valves . I think everything will be fine.
Thank's a lot