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1970 "S" OIL LEAKS...WHATS NORMAL?

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Old 02-10-2007, 02:54 PM
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Russ L.
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Default 1970 "S" OIL LEAKS...WHATS NORMAL?

Ok people...here's the story. I'm a tech in a Dodge/Subaru shop in New York and the owner's best friend just bought a 1970 2.2 "S" 911. I've been volunteered to get her "road ready". HELP!
I raised her up and the engine is an oil leak with metal around it.LOL! I've heard the older engines were prone to oil leaks but this looks to me like it could be a nightmare. I just don't want to promise him a completely dry motor to find out this may be Porsche's way of rustproofing! LOL!
It appears to be leaking on top of the block...I'm going to clean it off and add dye to the oil to verify.
If there is any common areas I should be looking at please let me know. This will save what little hair I still have. Thanks in advance
Russ
Old 02-10-2007, 04:09 PM
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oceanvue
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What's the history of the car. What's the color? Is it a targa? Reason I ask is it might be my old car. Do you know who he bought it from?
Old 02-10-2007, 05:53 PM
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Droops83
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If the leak is from the top of the engine in the rear, the oil pressure switch and the breather cover gasket are the two common areas there. The D-ring on the distributor also leaks sometimes, but of course that's on the "front" side . . . underneath there are a lot of potentials: rockershafts/lower valve cover gaskets, oil return tubes, sump gasket, cam seal/chain cover/chain housing gaskets, engine case through-bolts, cylinder heads, etc. Wash off the bottom of the engine and run it for awhile and see where it is leaking . . . . .

---Chris A.
Old 02-10-2007, 06:49 PM
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Peter Zimmermann
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Listen to Chris! And never promise an owner of a mag case 911 a dry motor!!! In addition, your case halves below the oil pump can be leaking, #8 main bearing o-ring can leak... Take one leak at a time, fix it and move on to the next one, but make sure that you don't have a really serious leak which, when you fix it, will automatically take care of a few more during disassembly and assembly. Hopefully you have a factory manual and a good tool budget - a rust-free 2.2 S is definitely worth every penny invested! Check your engine case number and the number plate on the top of the MFI pump to verify that it's an "S".
Pete
Old 02-11-2007, 11:48 AM
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Russ L.
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Thank you all for the guidance...To address some of the questions. The car is red,it came with a cert. of authenticity from Porsche...I've checked and matched the block, trans. and the vin. #'s...Yes they all go to the year and "S" series.The vin.= 9110300586.Peter,I'll look at the MFI pump #'s and get back on that.
To Oceanvue...I don't know the entire history of the vehicle...I'll try to find out more when I get my hands on the car. The prev. owner is a man by the name Wayne Vitale...He's a member of zone 1 metro. N.Y. out on Long Island...From the conversation I had with him, He's a D.E. instructor and does club racing as well.
Back to the car: adjustable front and rear swaybars, hollow torsion bars on all 4 corners,camber brace in front, adjustable spring plates in the rear,lowered about 1.5 inches and corner balanced as well by a shop that I personally know to have a good reputation.
Peter...I do own a set of factory manuals but I do not have many specialized tools but I've been looking around at various web. based stores for tools.When the time comes I'll get what is needed.
Again Thank you all and I'll be posting some pic.s of the car as soon as I get them.
Russ
Old 02-11-2007, 12:28 PM
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SeattlePorsche
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Russ, don't forget the thermostat O-ring at the top of the engine next to the oil pressure switch and breather cover. This is also a common leak.

Pete, how does one replace the #8 main bearing seal? I am not past the point of no return on my project and I was wondering if this can be done without an engine teardown. Thanks!
Old 02-11-2007, 12:32 PM
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oceanvue
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Not my car. I sold a Silver 70 S Targa to a collector out of New York a couple of years ago # 349 or there abouts. I know every square nano inch of that engine as I cleaned it with tooth brushes and pipe cleaners and it was bone dry. I thought I could lend some insight if it was my old car.
Old 02-11-2007, 01:12 PM
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Peter Zimmermann
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James: #8 main bearing seal can be replaced by removing the crank pulley, but the o-ring requires splitting the case halves. Sometimes, if the o-ring leaks, after careful cleaning (MEK or similar), a bead of LocTite (the black & white stuff mixed together) all the way around #8 can work.
Pete
Old 02-11-2007, 06:52 PM
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Russ L.
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https://webmail2.optonline.net/attac...20rer_copy.jpg
https://webmail2.optonline.net/attac...dj_spr_plt.jpg
Old 02-11-2007, 07:06 PM
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https://webmail2.optonline.net/attac...14_und_pan.jpg
https://webmail2.optonline.net/attac...16_rt_hdlt.jpg
https://webmail2.optonline.net/attac...30_bat_lid.jpg
https://webmail2.optonline.net/attac...rt_und_pan.jpg
Guys take a peek. Just a few shots the owner sent oevr to me. Again thanks for everything and hopefully I'll a better handle on the leaks in a few days!
Old 02-12-2007, 08:07 PM
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Russ L.
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Well the car has oficially changed owners as of 6:30 p.m. I know my client is thrilled except for the weather forecast for tomorrow.
B.T.W. Peter....I do want to ask you what the best way to stop rust on the inside of the wheelwells...There is a small rot hole on the front inner driver's side wheelwell. The first car that i looked over for my client had rot in the same spot but much larger hole. I've seen a few products that state "just wire brush and paint on to arrest the rot". I know if it seems too good to be true....Any thoughts?
Old 02-13-2007, 07:10 PM
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Russ: I'm really sorry, but asking me that is like asking an Orthodontist to do a little brain surgery. I honestly don't know how to treat or stop rust, other than watching my good friend cut out affected pieces and fabricating replacements. Sorry!
Pete
Old 02-13-2007, 08:44 PM
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Russ L.
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Peter...Thats ok...i thought you might have heard of something "new and improved" LOL! Nothing beats just replacing the metal with new. There just seem to be these "magical elixers" such as POR-15 and others...I didn't /don't know if they are for real or "snake oil"
My client took possesion of the car last night with his son and "rung it out" a bit. Much better vehicle than the one I had sent back to Florida. Strong drivetrain other than the leaks...trans shifts very well and doesn't leak a drop...Maybe it's empty!LOL...no i checked that.
Anyhow...it wont be long til I have the car at the dealership I work at...and then I can get a handle on hese leaks.I did tell him that I may not be able to get her completely dry but there is evidence of oil behind the fan and alt....with that being said,the oil on the bottom could be residue...maybe.
More later thanks again Russ



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