Are you serious??
Many "overmaintain" their cars with the thought that it's cheap insurance against costly repairs later, but 1000 mi is pretty extreme, don't you think?

Edward

 

Ok, maybe every 1,500 to 2,000 miles

You should see how clean the undercarriage is, he had the front & rear suspension components bead blasted & powder coated and the engine bay scrubbed spotless. Even the paint below the seats under the car was shiny.

I have some photot'sposted on the link below.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/showt...hreadid=307602

John

 

Mobil 1 15W-50. If you do a search on this topic, there was a lot of good discussion about a year ago with contributions from people that have torn down and rebuilt many regular and race motors in all years of 911s (like Steve Weiner, for instance), and the consensus was that the lighter weight oils shorten the lifespan of these motors considerably, despite what the factory now claims as "approved."

 

I'm sure there many of us (including myself) that have used 15 or 20w50 weight oils with success and they will indeed serve the purpose without any problems. In fact, the chances of a properly maintained engine experiencing an oil related failure these days are practically nil. The question becomes which oils, be they synthetic,semi, or conventional can protect and lower the wear rates. Many 40 weight oils actually have a "thicker" oil film boundry at temp than some of the leading 50 weights. Also, many 50 weight oils shear very quickly in an engine and what started as a 50 is very quickly a low 40 weight in our crankcase. There's a lot more to it than just the number a manufacturer prints on a label. If you want to focus on one of a number specs that can be used to judge an oils "toughness" or durability under usage it is the HTHS (high temp/high shear) spec. Use an oil that is 3.6 or higher. If your favorite brand fit's the bill, great! If not, look around!

 

I have a q&a on oils that covers this on my site, along with lots of oil testing results.

http://www.LNengineering.com/oil.html

I personally use M1 0w40 in my 3.6 that is stock other than for a Steve W chip. I drive the car almost every day and plan on driving it as much as I can this winter and have many below freezing starts. Oil temperature barely even gets warm unless I drive it really, really hard. I'll watch and see, and depending on oil consumption, pressure, and temperatures, will probably switch to M1 15w50, only if needed. If I planned on tracking the car, it would be a no-brainer to run 15w50 M1, or if I lived in a hotter climate.

 

I'm only seeing 15w-50 in the Mobile 1 Extended Performance version...not the regular Mobile 1.

Is this what you guys are using?

Anyone use the Castrol Syntec 20w-50?

 

Mobil is (has?) discontinuing the regular formula 15w and only offering the extended formula. If you see the old stuff (which is cheaper, BTW), I'd stock up. FWIW, I haven't seen any of the orig formular in Walmart for months ...bummed!

Edward

 

I tested all the formulations sold over the last 10 yrs and they all are identical, from a tbn and anti-wear additive standpoint. No need to fret over new vs. old formulations. It's all marketing...

 

The mobile website doesn't list 15w-50 under the Mobile 1....only Mobile 1 Extended Performance. And I was at Autozone yesterday and they didn't have it.

Sooooo....Do you just go for the Extended Performance version...or do you look for something else?

I mentioned Castrol Syntec (20w-50) above...any comments on that?

 

Extended perf is the same stuff. Go for it.

As far as Castrol Syntec 5w50, I personally wouldn't use it even in my lawnmower. Low anti-wear additive, crappy tbn, .... If you want a good Castrol, TWS 10w60 (bmw spec for m3, m5, and z8) is the way to go. That is one damn good oil that holds its own!

 

To summarize Steve W's recommendation for SC: Valvoline VR 20w50 + 3 oz. GM brand EOS assembly lubricant.

 

Where does one get GM brand assembly lubricant ? At the dealer ?

 

Yes they do have it, I managed Frank Parra here in Texas, Also try what many call fish oil for break in start up.. Ihave no idea what it is but certainly ask

 

Yep, I'm a big believer in the blends. I have Syntec 20/50 in my 911 right now, and I've also used Valvoline Durablend. I think the blend is the best of both worlds. Not everyone has escaped oil leaks when changing old motors to fully synthetic, so the dyno in the blends helps there. They're a little less money than full syn. The oil on my dipstick looks like new when it has 3000 miles on it, this is on a 130,000 mile engine.

Extended Perf. is the only version from M1 that offers the 15/50.

 

Per Steve W's recommendation, I found the engine assembly EOS at my local Chevy dealer. It cost less than $9.00 including tax. After reading Navarro's table of oils and the Z & P levels, should I bep putting the EOS in the Valvoline VR1 20w50 oil? Pete Z has recommended on several ocassions that Kendall 20w50 GT-1 was a very good oil. I have access to it and wondered if it is a viable alternative to the VR1?