ejmetz

Hi All!

(I originally posted this on the 912 forum, but wanted to add here as well. Pardon the repitition.)

I'm starting to put my '66 912's rear suspension back together after powder coating and have a couple of questions...

1) Setting the torsion bar and spring plates -
I understand the whole theory about the inner and outer spline rotation in order to get the 50' minimum change and figure I need 7 splines inner and outer to lower the car just under 2", which is what I want to try.
HOWEVER - how do I get back to the original setting to start my 7 spline rotation once everything is apart??? I did kind of scribe the line of the plate on the chassis before removal, but it doesn't seem to be too clear now! Is there a clear way to get this back to factory setting without the nifty bubble tool?

2) Since I am installing all new bushings, is there anything I should use on the bushings before putting them in (my '66 bushings are not vulcanized to the spring plates). My trusty Floyd Clymer says to use a "rubber preserving glycerine paste, such as 'Conti-Fix Assembly Paste'." I also read somewhere that a silicone spray should work. Question is - do I need this and what is it for - assembly, preservation or lubrication?

Any help would be GREATLY appreciated!

Erich

Peter Zimmermann

Erich: Forget about splines, how many to turn, etc. For now, assemble the radius arm with bushings, but nothing else attached. The arm must hang free after the bushing cover is in place. During assemly set the T-bar (by rotating it until the splines are where needed) so the radius arm angle is 33 degrees from horizontal - a second protractor on the door sill makes this easier. Forget the scribe mark that you made, new bushings will change that. Now, 33 degrees will get you back to original stock. If you want to skip that step and go straight to lowering the car you can. When your car was built there was no "Euro" height or "5-mile/hour" height to go by. As a guide an SC set for USA use was adjusted at 40 degrees, it's Euro cousin was set at 35 degrees. So, basically, 5 degrees of spring strut (radius arm) inclination was required to change a car set at 5 mph bumper height to Euro height. With your 912 I wouldn't go more than 2 degrees on your first try. I doubt that a lot of info is out there and everyone has a different idea about how low is "lowered." The end product should definitely have a visible air space betwen the top of the rear tire and the closest part of the wheel opening when viewed from the side. Hope this helps! FYI: Sears has some nice protractors with magnetic sides in their tool department.
Pete

ejmetz

Peter,

This looks very helpful. I have one magnetic protractor and will drive by Sears tomorrow to look for a second. Thanks for the degrees numbers, this is great - very easy to understand. I'll let you know what I come up with! Thanks!

Erich