Garibaldi

I have, and this will not appeal to just anyone, but most likely more a shop or engine builder that does a lot of 911 work. I have a tooling fixture for doing 911 air cooled cylinder heads. I made it back when I was doing machine work, I will get a picture up soon of it, but to describe it..... This is a solid peice of thick oil hardened tool steel with four threaded posts that carry a tool steel cross bar with a solid thick brass adjustable plunger on it. There are two holes ;aid out to within .001 on the top in whic the locating dowels on the cam housing surface of the cylinder head fit into with a light tap of a dead blow hammer, the beams then swing in and shove home on both port sides of the cylinder head, and the brass rod slides into the port and then machined and knurled brass ***** tighen down the head to the base via the ports, then the head is locked solid in place. The bottom surface of the base is hand scraped and flowered and has an intersecting groove in which a removable block can be bolted into that allows for location on the bed of a bridgeport mill in either direction. This fixture took me a couple of weeks, sliced fingers, and tool bits to make! It is repeatable and consistent, and the tolerance is within tenths of thousandths, ou equipment will be the overall deciding factor on how tight you can hold the number, not the fixture. I designed it to spread the clamp load across the cam housing surface so barrel seat distortion is minimal. There are two angled holes bored into the base for doing valve guide and seat work. I made this fixture to be able to have a way to rebuild and machine 911 heads quickly and consistently. I would mount it on a rotary table and zero the fixture via a concentric hole laid out and bored directly in the center of the base, and then just wind the bed out on the corresponding axis of the bridgeport, drop down with an appropriate end mill, set the speed and rotate the rotary table index around unitl I have remilled both mating surfaces to the desired depth. Then it was just a matter of loosening the *****, removing the head, cleaning off the chips, lining up the next head, tap it down, lock the post in the ports and tighten, and repeat the operation over again for each head. Another method wold be to dial the fixture in on the bed to the nose of the spindle and drop down with a bring head and bit and finish the surface that way. I used this fixture to bore guide holes, seat bores, resurface heads, cut grooves for flame rings and reshape combustion chambers. ITS VERSATILE< AND ACCURATE, and buys you repeatablity. visually its a Beautiful peice, the corners are broken with ball mills, the edges are hand filed so theyre not sharp, and the brass bar and ***** look *****in, the bootm is all hand flowered to hold some oil on the equipment, and the fastening harware is all Holochrome Socket head screws that are flush mounted into the base. Its not light, it weighs a fair amount, but its solid and built right. It can either make the right shop a whole bunch of money, or it can make one hell of a paperweight. It has been stored in a sealed bag soaked in hydraulic oil for the past 2 years, so there is no rust on it at all. If anyone is interested please let me know. Again, this is a tool for doing 911 air cooled head only.

contact me at garibaldiimagineering@msn.com

__________________