Dozer

Camber, Toe-in, Caster
Annyone know a good setup for my car? 1978 mod. coilovers.G-50 and other upgrades.
Want an agressive setup but not over the top. Have been looking into 964 Turbo S, 964 RS (Europe) and 993 RS angels for my setup.
Will do some auto-X and track days (maybe I'll join the Porsche club racing series also)
If you have anny experience on simmelar settups please let me know your thoughts.

Honkity Hank

Purported to be a good competition setup, certainly a good place to start.

Rake: 0.50" to 1" lower in front than rear measured at rocker panel.
Front Camber: -1.5 to -2.5 (the more camber the more aggressive)
Rear Camber: -2 to -3
Castor: Middle of the range
Front Toe: +0.125" (for the street -0.125")
Rear Toe: 0 to -0.125 (increase toe if you have power on oversteer)

Corner balance if possible.

Dozer

Thank you Hank:-)

Russ L.

DOZER...JUST KEEP IN MIND BECAUSE I MADE THIS MISTAKE...THINK ABOUT THE TIRE SIZE THAT WILL BE BEST FOR AUTO-X AND THE TRACK AND THEN LOWER THE CAR TO FIT. I'M RUNNING 16" NOW BUT JUST FIT UNDER THE FRONT FENDERS AND THERE'S NO ROOM TO LOWER WITHOUT ROLLING THE FENDER LIPS.IF YOU GO WITH 15"...YOU'LL HAVE BETTER TORQUE OFF THE LINE AND BE ABLE TO LOWER THE CAR UNTIL IT DRAGGS ON THE GROUND [LOL]... BUT LOOSE A LITTLE SPEED ON TOP END...I WISH I DID THE 15'S MYSELF...HOPE THIS HELPS

Dozer

No problem... I got torque! (dp-motorsport 3.3 Turbo engine)
Running on 17" Nice an low, but not to extreme 1-1,5" below euro) . I will use the car on the road also, so I need some ground clearance. Have installed RSR Coilovers from Bilstein, so if I need to adjust, it's done in 15 min.

earlyapex

Front toe out is great for auto cross, but makes for a darty car on the street and track. Your setup will need to be a compromise. I like 0 toe up front with -2.5 degrees of camber front and rear. I think I ran will a little toe in on the rear. It' hard to remember since my car is getting JRZ coil overs and ERP suspension. Your car looks to have a nice suspension.

Peter Zimmermann

Every car is different, and every driver's method of making the car work is a little different. Even at F1 levels photos reveal that no two drivers in the field will do a corner in the exact same way. That said, testing is the only way to get answers. It is perhaps the most expensive part of obtaining a setup, track days aren't cheap. Start conservative, say 1 degree negative camber (front), 1.5 degrees negative camber (rear), and 1/32 total toe out front & rear. Try to get at least 5.5 degrees caster. Corner balance the car. Mount high quality fresh tires. Go to the track with a log book, a pyrometer, a good tire guage and a couple of assistants who realize that exact is the only acceptable answer. Drive the car five laps as quickly as you're comfortable, station your people where tires can be checked quickly after exiting the track - going all the way to the cold pit is not good enough. Measure all tire pressures and shoot each contact patch on the outer one inch, the inner one inch, and the center. You want to see about twenty to thirty degrees hotter on the inside, than the outside, of each contact patch. You want to see about 4 - 6 psi gain in each tire, start them at 32F/34R cold. If your say bars are wrong work on those at the same time until you feel the car is predictable - a little understeer in the slow stuff will generally give you a crisp car in corners done at 100 mph +. You don't need alignment equipment at the track, but if you've got it use it! Keep pushing your setup until you go beyond where you can drive the car, then pull back a little bit. Test, test, test. And have fun doing it.
Pete

Peter Zimmermann

I'd like to add that the above post was made with the assumption that you're confident that the spring rates and anti-roll bar sizes that you've chosen make sense for the weight (both total and front to rear bias) of your car. If your first time out proves that the car has a severe understeer or oversteer problem you have to correct that first by changing springs, adjusting the sway bars, maybe even adjusting the height to be sure that all four shocks are actually working rather than riding on their stops. Remember, every change made will change something else, so if you have to change springs you have to recheck corner balance, if you change height you have to reset your alignment specs. Lot's of work ahead - but it's all fun!
Pete

Dozer

Thank you for your good advice

earlyapex

Great advice, Pete. I'll use this system to get my car dialed in next year.