GothingNC

I tried a search first and could not find the info I needed.

I did a clutch adjustment a few months ago and everyhting is working fine "knock on wood" and have a question about the return spring

I pulled the cable off and adjsted the freeplay to 1.1 per the 101 projects book and noticed the helper spring would snap the gap closed if I touched it.

Is there some pre-loaded tension in the spring?

The clutch, sppring, throw out bearing, cable, etc were all replaced 15,000 miles ago.

Thanks !

John

84_Carrera

Play with it just a touch John. My 84 did the same thing after replacing the cable bracket, & then later with the replacment spring. A very slight adjustment was enough to keep it from going "whack!" against the exchanger.

Peter Zimmermann

John: I'm not sure what you're saying, but the procedure requires that you begin with either a disconnected cable, or a cable that is loose at its holder (loosen using the two nuts). At that point the adjusting lever and spring should be against the stop provided and they won't move on their own. Use the adjustment bolt (loosen its jamb nut) to set the clearance between the bolt end and the short arm with the coil spring attached. That clearance should be 1.2 mm and should be measured with a feeler guage. Tighten the jamb nut on the bolt - you're done with this step. Install the cable so its bowden tube rests in a smooth arc about an inch from the side of the trans and tighten it using the two nuts at the holder. Tighten until you feel the slack go away on the few inches of cable (probably covered by a rubber, bellows-shaped boot) near the hook. When that length of cable begins to get tight insert a 1.0 mm feeler guage between the end of the adjuster bolt and short arm. Continue to tighten using the two nuts until you have obtained a snug 1.0 mm setting (while doing this insure that you don't lose the proper position of the bowden tube). Tighten the two nuts and you're done. Remember, the system uses three springs: 1. The omega spring, 2. the small spring on the short arm, and 3. the spring on the pedal assembly. It is also important to know that you don't have an aftermarket cable by looking for the words "Made in Western Germany" written in white on the bowden tube. If you can see those words you have an aftermarket cable, the o.e. cable does not have writing on the bowden tube.
Pete

GothingNC

Pete,

Thanks for the write up

I''ll take a look again when I install the heater cable.

John

arildso

Does anyone have an illustradet picture or scetch of how the Clutch release system works?
"the proper position of the bowden tube" is what? pictures anyone?

My problem on a 78 SC, is that the clutch "slips" when my turbo (3,0 engine with turbo) kick`s in.. The clutch is brand new and used only 1000 km so far (Sachs Power Clutch)

theiceman

May not be a cable adjstment at all. I would climb under and have a look where the actuator contacts the stop bolt . I believe there should be about a 1.0mm gap or so . The procedure specifies. If you have the gap ( or any gap for that matter ) it means it is not a clutch " adjustment " on the cable causing the clutch to slip when the turbo kicks in as it is not being pushed off by the actuator.

arildso

Well, I had a look under the car and there was no gap what so ever on the adjustment bolt... The clutch pedal in the car has no slack either...
The cluctch worked fine last summer before i stalled the car in the garage for the winter, when i took a ride today 4-5 months later i got this problem again with my clutch slipping when turbo kicks is.
The original clutch, wich i took out because i thought it was worn out, was just fine and did not need to be replaced. But when it slipped, I thougt it was because the turbo was to much for it.. I don`t have more than about 210 hp on the engine..

The clutch pedal is also way far in compared to the break pedal, should those two be "on line" ?

theiceman

Well that is good news on all fronts really, looks like it could be a simple adjustment for the clutch and I did in fact adjust my brake pedal so it was in a more comfortable position. I had to adjust my cable after putting a new one but after that it was fine.
let's do something simple.

Climb back under with a couple of wrenches and loosen the lock nut and adjustment nut where it fastens to the transmision and disconnect it from the lever. Now adjust the stop bolt until you have a 1.2 mm gap between the bolt and lever ( feeler guages ) with no cable connected

The comment about the boden tube is that it must "seat" or the adjustment will move after it is made. Yours has been in a while so should be okay.

Now put the cable back on and adjust the cable so the gap is now 1.0 mm. ( basically you are putting in .2mm of preload. ) . The cable should now be fastened down with the right gap.

Go check her out.

There is also a measurement for clutch release distance. basically find a reference point on the cable under the car, have someone press the clutch and make sure the cable moves 25mm +/- .5mm. If it is not correct a stop on the pedal can be adjusted to get this measurement. You will see two nuts on the plywood when you lift the carpet that limits the throw of the pedal.

I have a 78Sc and there is a bar fastened to the brake pedal that has a lock nut at each end. after loosening the locknuts you should be able to twist the bar and move the pedal in or out. ( it is simple once you see it.

Good luck and repost with your progress.

arildso

Thanx for your help so far, I will post the result as soon as I get a chance to look at it again, maybe some time next week

mr91nk

Did you find out what was wrong with your clutch? I seem to have the same "slipping clutch" problem with my car, a 1986 turbo. However, the clutch only slips on 3rd and 4th gear, and as far as I have been able to observe, somewhere around 3-4000 rpm. I'm very curious about this, so happy for any response!

theiceman

Well it looks like arildso was another one of those posters who signs up to get a problem fixed and then dissapears once it's resolved without ever letting anyone know .. his last post on this was over a year ago , I doubt he has been seen since.
John is still around though ..

mr91nk

Well, seems to me he was here little more than a month ago, but still.. Happens frequently on forums that people pop by to get a solution to their problems, and then vanish...

For me, I'm on my first Porsche, can't say I'm very familiar with the transmission; the car has been problem free for the first five years, knock on wood. However, it would be interesting to hear ppl's view on my problem as well. The clutch is getting a bit worn, sometimes the pedal is getting stuck "down". However, I didn't plan to change it until next season, so my questions are actually the following:

1. Are the two problems, slipping clutch and pedal getting stuck down, related to each other?
2. Are there short term solutions to those problems?
3. Can I "do it myself" (having reasonable "do it myself" experience from other cars than Porsche)?

Thanks!!

theiceman

I haven't done my clutch yet and have had no problems but Pete would be best to answer this. I would ceratinly check the vase adjustments first.

arildso

Hi
First of all, I am really sorry that it took me so long to reply my results on this, however I finished this operation just a short week ago.

anyway, my problem was actually the pedal cluster bushings and thanks to theiceman for his tips and instructions I got my clutch release system assembled last weekend and went for a test drive. My clutch does not slip anymore at all
The reason this job took me so long was the huge amount of rust on my pedal cluster parts, I was not able to disassemble the pedal parts due to the rust and the pin in the shaft wouldn`t come out. Had to cut the shaft and clutch pedal with an angle grinder.... And it took me a while to get hold of some used parts, like the pedal arm and the shaft but when i finally got the parts there was no trouble to assemble it again.
A bit tight to assemble the cluster in the car, but after a few patient hours the job was done.

BUT, I now got a new problem that appeared after i assembled the clutch system. My first gear "jumps" out of gear when i accelerate.
I did do the clutch adjustment setting as described, with 1,2 mm cap before clutch cable attached, and 1 mm with clutch cable attached. I pressed the clutch in and out with my foot several times and went to check the gap again. Then there was no gap what so ever. I thougt it needed to be re adjustet, but than I found out that if I pressed the release arm by force with my fingers, the gap was 1 mm again.
So it seems like the release arm on the gearbox doesen`t return all the way, I am thinking this could be the reason my 1. gear pops out ?
It am thinking that it might be the Clutch Arm Helper Spring (Pelican parts 915-116-064-00-M260) wich doesen`t function as it should be. But I can`t find out how to change this part or if I can change it without having to take out the gearbox from the car... (?)
Pelican parts don`t have this part availeble anymore, could i use the turbo ? Clutch Arm Helper Spring, 911 Turbo (1978-88) 930-116-064-09-OEM

GothingNC

Iceman,

I'm still here.
I forgot about the issue since I've been so busy at work

The driving has been fine since I adjusted it by the "I hope I got it right" method for the last 4,000 miles.

John