I can feel every little bump in the road...is that normal?
#16
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Hey John. I am sure all the tires should be replaced. Like I said, the Yokohamas on the back are in great shape (visibly), but as they have been sitting for so long, there could be dead spots that are not as easy to spot. I will be taking a look at the suspension and whatnot this weekend.
Well you are right about personal preference Ice. I was going to look at Tire Rack today actually. I don't track either and only sometimes drive aggressively :-) I do live in Seattle, so yep, we definitely get rain!
Well you are right about personal preference Ice. I was going to look at Tire Rack today actually. I don't track either and only sometimes drive aggressively :-) I do live in Seattle, so yep, we definitely get rain!
#17
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I got some Pirelli's from Tire Rack. One of the P-Zero types. Can't remember exactly. But they do everything I need. My car has some under steer, and I can feel the car losing something in the front suspension when I take a turn fast, and then it seems to come back, so I am guessing it is my shock towers flexing. One day I might try one of the strut braces.
I got Pirelli's because my car also had Pirelli P7 Cinturatos on when I bought it.
I got Pirelli's because my car also had Pirelli P7 Cinturatos on when I bought it.
#18
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James,
I am willing to bet that the understeer you are experiencing is NOT from strut towers flexing. I'm even of the opinion that a strut brace is nearly at the bottom of the upgrade list" if one plans only on running street tires at the track. R-Compound: different story, but street tires are just going to let go long before your nice, steel chassis (911s are no slouch, remember) is going to flex. There are just so many more things that play a more active role in how a 911 handles. You can dial out understeer with sways, t-bars, and tires. All these have a far more significant effect on understeer ...not to mention how you are approaching a turn![Wink](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/wink.gif)
Edward
I am willing to bet that the understeer you are experiencing is NOT from strut towers flexing. I'm even of the opinion that a strut brace is nearly at the bottom of the upgrade list" if one plans only on running street tires at the track. R-Compound: different story, but street tires are just going to let go long before your nice, steel chassis (911s are no slouch, remember) is going to flex. There are just so many more things that play a more active role in how a 911 handles. You can dial out understeer with sways, t-bars, and tires. All these have a far more significant effect on understeer ...not to mention how you are approaching a turn
![Wink](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/wink.gif)
Edward
#20
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What I did about my first set of tires... I bought budget performance tires, Fuzion ZRi. They are a lower-priced performance tire line made by Bridgestone and aimed primarily at the Japanese tuner market. I bought inexpensive tires in case my alignment was way out, and I ended up scrubbing off a tire (or all 4) in 2,000 miles. I wasn't inclined to get an alignment just yet. I would have hated to have destroyed a nice set of top-end tires in a couple of months. Turns out they are wearing fine (alignment is good) and feel pretty good (decent dry grip) on my spirited drives. I may not go to a more expensive tire after all.
Everyone has their opinions on tires. For your climate (lots of wet roads) get a good wet traction tire, if you'll be driving in the wet. For wet traction, directional tread patterns are generally superior. For example, I've heard great things about the Goodyear F1 GSD3 in the wet, but that is on the higher side of price. Probably best to decide on a price point first, then go shopping. There is no absolute best tire. You have to select your important criteria, then find the tire that is the best compromise meeting your criteria.
Brett
Everyone has their opinions on tires. For your climate (lots of wet roads) get a good wet traction tire, if you'll be driving in the wet. For wet traction, directional tread patterns are generally superior. For example, I've heard great things about the Goodyear F1 GSD3 in the wet, but that is on the higher side of price. Probably best to decide on a price point first, then go shopping. There is no absolute best tire. You have to select your important criteria, then find the tire that is the best compromise meeting your criteria.
Brett
#22
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Lets be honest here.... You are driving a Porsche 911 that sits like 4 inches off the ground at best. These cars handle as if they belong on a track... if you were expecting a smooth quiet ride then a Cadillac is in order. Changing every piece of suspension, mounts, tires is not gonna make this car ride smooth and quiet.
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Originally Posted by Forever
Lets be honest here.... You are driving a Porsche 911 that sits like 4 inches off the ground at best. These cars handle as if they belong on a track... if you were expecting a smooth quiet ride then a Cadillac is in order. Changing every piece of suspension, mounts, tires is not gonna make this car ride smooth and quiet.
#24
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I disagree with Forever. My 81SC is very smooth and quiet now. No squeeks at all. Just a jar when you hit a big bump. I would let you drive it, but it is in a little state of disassembly... If you have owned 4 Porsches previously, then you have a good idea of what you are expecting.
#25
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You should be able to feel every bump in the road - but how much can't be determined w/o having an expert drive the car and compare it to other 911s - on same roads & side by side if possible.
You will want to replace those tires though. Even if they were not flat-spotted - tires age and 6 years is near the end of the rubber's lifespan - it gets hard as hell.
same goes for every peice of rubber in the suspension - it all needs to be replaced - ugly labor but not a lot for parts.
do those two things & get it aligned and I'm sure it will feel a LOT different & a lot better.
You will want to replace those tires though. Even if they were not flat-spotted - tires age and 6 years is near the end of the rubber's lifespan - it gets hard as hell.
same goes for every peice of rubber in the suspension - it all needs to be replaced - ugly labor but not a lot for parts.
do those two things & get it aligned and I'm sure it will feel a LOT different & a lot better.
#26
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I agree with Randy I replaced all my rubber and it was not expensive at all, just some labor. James did even more than I and he is local to you . Stick close to that guy :-)
#27
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I was thinking today that there really is no rubber to replace on the fronts. They don't make rubber for the front a-arms. If you want rubber, then you are forced to buy new a-arms. That's why I went with polybronze. But I think original rubber would be the most comfortable ride. A-arms are expensive.
#28
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My 80 911sc runs snooth, until I hit a bump... what I am stating it a true sports car is made to handle the road, grip it... not hide the bumps. I have a honda ridgeline, probably the smoothest ride on the road, and compared to the ridgeline the 911 is harsh, same bumps I dont even notice on the RL the 911 lets me know they are there now. I expect that out of my 911.
But honestly chances are replacing everything to do with suspension/tires will only take out a little of that, and you will still feel those bumps.
But honestly chances are replacing everything to do with suspension/tires will only take out a little of that, and you will still feel those bumps.
#29
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Originally Posted by SeattlePorsche
I was thinking today that there really is no rubber to replace on the fronts. They don't make rubber for the front a-arms. If you want rubber, then you are forced to buy new a-arms. That's why I went with polybronze. But I think original rubber would be the most comfortable ride. A-arms are expensive.
Elpephant makes a product for this IIRC.
Also, SRP will refurb them for you - ship them in wiat then reinstall - good winter project
SRP = Smart Racing Products