Best suspension for a SWB 67 911
#1
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Best suspension for a SWB 67 911
Like it says. I am helping a freind with a 200k mile 67 SWB 911. I have not had a chance to check out the car yet but I am assuming it is still using the factory struts and components. The car has a terrible vibration in the front and from what I gather the shocks have leaked to the point they are doing nothing.
This car is not a show car and my freind wants the biggest bang for his $$. I was thinking Koni or Bilstein inserts and shocks. I also was curious if anyone recommends anything else while we are in there? do these cars come with sways? I would think by now changing out all bushings and possibly ball joints tie rod ends and whatever else may be dry rotted is in order.
Thanks in advance.
This car is not a show car and my freind wants the biggest bang for his $$. I was thinking Koni or Bilstein inserts and shocks. I also was curious if anyone recommends anything else while we are in there? do these cars come with sways? I would think by now changing out all bushings and possibly ball joints tie rod ends and whatever else may be dry rotted is in order.
Thanks in advance.
#2
Vibration in early 911s is most often caused by wheel imbalance or flat spots on the tires. And for the early 911s, it really has to be spot on to be smooth. I learned this the hard way after countless tire balancing - computer balancing 3 times, on the car balancing twice, all for nothing, but immediate cure with new tires.
On the other hand, with 200k miles, who knows what else is bad.
On the other hand, with 200k miles, who knows what else is bad.
#3
RL Technical Advisor
Anthony:
Jay offered sound advice about dealing with vibration problems as these cars are VERY sensitive.
To restore a 200K mile car so that it drives like new can usually require everything if the suspension is all original so I'd carefully inpect and possibly replace:
1) Struts/shocks (OEM or Koni)
2) Ball joints
3) Tie rod assemblies
4) Suspension & swaybar bushings (if it has the latter)
5) Wheel bearings
Jay offered sound advice about dealing with vibration problems as these cars are VERY sensitive.
To restore a 200K mile car so that it drives like new can usually require everything if the suspension is all original so I'd carefully inpect and possibly replace:
1) Struts/shocks (OEM or Koni)
2) Ball joints
3) Tie rod assemblies
4) Suspension & swaybar bushings (if it has the latter)
5) Wheel bearings
#4
Addicted Specialist
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Those SWBs are pretty dang light so I'd go with mild t-bar upgrade, or leave it stock if your bud likes the ride compliance. I am, however, a great proponent of Bilsteins ...just love what they've done to every car I've installed them in. A set of HDs in that car with stock or slightly firmer tbars would be a great ride. The "while you are in there" syndrome makes no better sense than now so I'd agree with you to replace all bushings --not only for improved ride/handling, but for safety. Going to Neatrix, PolyGraphite, or PolyBronze is up to one's budget and intended goal for the car. Can't comment on sways ...don't know enough about the SWBs. Hope this helps you a bit
Edward
Edward
#5
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Thanks everyone.
I have never worked on a SWB car before. The earliest model I have ever worked on was a complete restoration of a 71 E. Great car. I put Bilsteins in that one along with just about every other Porsche I have owned. I do like them a lot. I did have a set of specially valved RS Koni's on my 79 SC (74RS clone) They were a gas/oil combination. Between the weight of the car (2390) and the Konis it was the most responsive set up I had ever experienced. The big problem with the Konis is they did not last more than a few years before needing a refresh. This happened several times over the years even though i rarely drove the car.
I always found Bilsteins worked best on heavier cars. I am not sure what is in this car. I have scheduled to have him bring it by next Tuesday and we are going to go over everything. Looks like this will take me more effort than I was hoping to offer.
He originally brought the car to a place in Manhattan and they were quoting over $2k just for parts. I think they are off their rockers. I figure this should run around $620 for Bilsteins or a little more for Koni's depending on what is available. Then I need to have someone do an alignment.
I have also convinced him to start with new rubber. If your going to spend the money on a wheel alignment and new shocks might as well start off fresh.
I think we are going to keep the stock sways or whatever is in there I will check out the bushings, ball joints, bearings etc. IIRC these early cars had the straight front sway that runs through the inside of the trunk with drop links.
I have never worked on a SWB car before. The earliest model I have ever worked on was a complete restoration of a 71 E. Great car. I put Bilsteins in that one along with just about every other Porsche I have owned. I do like them a lot. I did have a set of specially valved RS Koni's on my 79 SC (74RS clone) They were a gas/oil combination. Between the weight of the car (2390) and the Konis it was the most responsive set up I had ever experienced. The big problem with the Konis is they did not last more than a few years before needing a refresh. This happened several times over the years even though i rarely drove the car.
I always found Bilsteins worked best on heavier cars. I am not sure what is in this car. I have scheduled to have him bring it by next Tuesday and we are going to go over everything. Looks like this will take me more effort than I was hoping to offer.
He originally brought the car to a place in Manhattan and they were quoting over $2k just for parts. I think they are off their rockers. I figure this should run around $620 for Bilsteins or a little more for Koni's depending on what is available. Then I need to have someone do an alignment.
I have also convinced him to start with new rubber. If your going to spend the money on a wheel alignment and new shocks might as well start off fresh.
I think we are going to keep the stock sways or whatever is in there I will check out the bushings, ball joints, bearings etc. IIRC these early cars had the straight front sway that runs through the inside of the trunk with drop links.