When I bought my car the A/C wasnt hooked up (eg belt not on)..so getting ready to investigate the system.. expecting the worst.. I read where if the compressor isnt used the seals in there go bad.. (the compressor is NOT locked up however and spins freely) anyway..mine has not been run in atleast one year.. who here has switched out there compressor and receiver drier?

Was the result ,ie cooling, that much more noticeable?

I read where with some new compressors there is also some new 'switch' that has to be installed? comments suggestions appreciated.. oh and before you say screw even trying, I live in FL where it is hot 9 months outta the year!!

 

Rob: Screw even trying... Just kidding! Before embarking on what will be a hugely expensive, and maybe unsatisfying, job, I suggest that you invest a little time and talk with some experts. My favorite people are Performance Aire in Anaheim, CA. They are extremely knowledgable and experienced. Their number is (714) 634-9184, and Diana will answer. She is not a part-time secretary, rather she is a wealth of information and a really neat lady. Don't forget to ask about barrier hose!
Pete

 

Pete yer killin' me..so, you are really saying that the $1000.00 I would spend is gonna be all for naught..? cuz that's what I am reading between the lines..

Still investigating whats currently in the car but like I said, I am expecting the worst..

 

Rob,

I am in the process of having the following upgrades installed on my car:

- Rennaire ProCooler
- Kuehl Evaporator
- new blower motor (since the evaporator was coming out)
- Kuehl blower motor controller
- Sanden compressor (found that the Nippondenso was leaking just before the upgrade started)

I hope to get the car back in the next few days and can let you know about any improvement.

Regards,
David.

.89 3.2 coupe

 

$1000 isn't going to buy you much in the AC world.

It can be done, but it's not cheap. You can also get information at their website.

 

I see a compressor at Vertex for 398.00 and a recver drier for 98.00.. what else are we talking about?

 

Stock 911 AC is lousy. To make the system work, you need to increase condenser area. The most effective way to do that is with Perfomance Aire's underbelly condenser, which is about $400. If you're going to replace the coolant itself with R-134a (R-12 is very expensive and will only get moreso, in addition to the issue of destroying the planet's ozone layer), you're going to need to replace the system's perforated hoses with barrier-type ones. If you're sticking with R-12 and you don't replace the lines, you're going to be paying a lot for each recharge, and then blowing a gasket of your own every time you discover a bad fitting or compromised line.

Hoses are available from: http://www.ackits.com/

Then there's labor, if you don't do it yourself.

I'm sure there are lots of threads you could find with a search here, or at the Pelican Parts BBS

 

Rob: You better dig deeper than the $1K level in your wallet! You might get lucky, but the typical A/C job at our shop, with your job description, ran between $1500 and $2000. One of the problems, other than what Jack posted, is the evaporator assembly. Nothing is more frustrating than getting the whole project "done" and have the blower start to chirp loudly - poof, another $500. You have to buy the larger vent to install under the dash, you will probably have to buy a blower/relay for the front condenser, new hoses are a must... You see, A/C is really never "done," it's just one long battle to keep it working over a long period of time and miles.
Pete

 

I agree with everything said in the above posts I too live in florida and have had my entire a/c system redone about 3k and it still is only marginal. 87 3.2

 

Geesh.. now I am really discouraged.. I'm thinkin' "no" on this.. oh to live in So. Cal. again!! 2k to 3k?? wow..speechless..

 

If you can do the work yourself you can get good working AC for a reasonable price. My car already had a Sanden compressor but I removed the engine lid condensor and replaced it with a used underbelly condensor and a rear quarter panel fan assisted condensor. I removed the hoses myself,cut off the ends and brought them to a local hose guy and had him make new barrier hoses only had to pay for the hose and his labor. Then I added a new receiver/drier and expansion valve and pulled my own vacuum and then added HC12 refrigerant.My grand total is in the $1200.00 range and it cools fine in the Florida climate.

 

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/showt...ghlight=hladun

 

Sorry for a slight highjack, but now that we're into this, has anybody had the experience of an excessively hot fuse for the A/C. i get burned by even looking at it and the rest of the fuses are ambient temp...

An 87 BTW

 

When I bought my '87 in March, the air was blowing cold. Over the last few months it has gotten steadily less cold to being slightly better then the vent. When I first drove the car I noticed the A/C was not cold. The mechanic siad it needed a new compressor and if I wanted he would convert it to 134A. Since it wasn't going to cost me extra, I said sure.

Now I suspect that while, I have a new compressor, I still need to update the hoses and evaporator. Would a band-aid fix be to just recharge it when it stops blowing cold? Is this something I can do myself? Any comments or suggestions is appeciated.

 

sure you can do a R134A recharge every spring, but having done that this year I found it didn't last as long as I'd have hoped. (last summer, being ignorant, I changed to the rotary compressor and R134A, but didn't do other parts or hoses as I didn't know any better). This year at the end of the summer, I purchased the Rennair barrier hoses, ProCooler (receiver/dryer) and evaporator. Once those have all been fitted and refridgerant recharged, I expect better air temps and longer intervals between any R134A recharging. Why do all this for an SC ? I live in North Carolina, it's brutal in the summer, and while I have another newer car for sauna weather, there are times I like to drive the SC. At least with new SSIs and M&K 2/1, it's got to be making more power for those times I crank the A/C ! I expect to have the rest of the system done in late November or December (don't need to do it until the spring, but I want to get it over with).