GothingNC

After reading throught this thread and the one on Pelican I think under $10 for a 16oz of EOS bottle is very cheap insurance.

I looked at the Kendall website and they still use the Zinc additive in their dino oil.

bgiere

This is the original Kendall formulation...Kendall was bought out by Conoco Philips and is not the same oil that it used to be...it is Kendall in name only..

http://www.bradpennracing.com/

ron mcatee

Steve, as I understand your comment....it is OK to add E.O.S. to my 88 Carrera that has a Cat.

Steve Weiner-Rennsport Systems

IMHO, and in moderation, yes I do.

ron mcatee

Thanks. I plan to use about 1.0 - 1.5 oz at my next oil change. Do you recommend more?

Steve Weiner-Rennsport Systems

I'd use 2oz at each oil change.

HarryD

I have been looking at the GM site for data on the Zinc and Phosphorus content of EOS and am coming up empty. Does anyone have data on exactly how much of the good stuff in there (ppm or percent)?

From what I have been seeing, you want to end up with more than 0.12% Zinc and about the same amount of phosphrus.

Edward

Hi Steve,

So if I may, how does the Mobil 1's additive package stack up against adding the GM stuff to a good dino like Kendall's GT1 (yes, the new stuff not the orig blend)? Can we compare a good Dino+GM additive vs. Mobil 1 plain, or is this apples and oranges? BTW, my question is with regard to both my 993 daily driver as well as my SC Trackmeister ...all in search of the best oil to use, but one that I don't have to go through great lengths or expense to get my hands on. Thanks!!

Edward

Steve Weiner-Rennsport Systems

Hi Edward:

The current formulation of Mobil 1 15w-50 is just fine and doesn't need anything.

Kendall's GT-1 is not the same thing as the original stuff since Conoco-Phillips bought the brand and I'd not use it unless the EOS additive was used. Further, synthetics do a better job in air-cooled engines that tend to run hotter than their water-cooled brethern.

Personally, I'd use the same oil in both your cars as its reasonably priced and available at most Walmart stores.

In the "Big Picture", oil is cheap for what it does and less expensive than buying the metal parts inside your engines,....

Edward

Thanks, Steve! I think of the Staples commercial with the big red "Easy" button ...that's what I want. I'll stick with the Mobil1 for the 993 and switch to it with the SC. As you mentioned, the cost and availability is reasonable, and for me it's just easy! As always, thanks for sharing your expertise!

Edward

Ron89930

OK, let me ask this then, if I may...
I've had my '89 930 for about a month now. (gawd I love this car!) The previous owner used Castrol GTX 20w50
I asked the mechanic who did the PPI what he'd run in this car, and he suggested Mobil 1.
When I mentioned this to the PO, he cautioned me that he'd "heard of many cases" where switching from dino-oil to mobil-1 caused an only somewhat leaky engine to start leaking oil like a sieve. Something about dissolving away "varnish" deposits to open seams, or some such.

Is there anything to that? My 930 doesn't seem to drip terribly much oil... and I'd kinda like to keep it that way!

Ron

--- Hmmm... to answer my own question, after some research, this does seem to be an issue some have experienced... Combined with the old "It's been doing fine for the last 69,000 miles on the stuff, why change it now?" philosophy... I'l likely just leave well enough alone. -Ron

ron mcatee

Many guys have had this happen, especially on an engine that has a lot of miles on it. I would venture to say that a new rebuild would be less susceptible to leaking due to lack of varnish build-up. The only way i know to find out is to do the change over and see what happens. However, based on threads I have read for the past few years on this subject, you may get more leakage if the engine already has some leaks.

Honkity Hank

I think the reason that leaks are ascentuated is due to the flow characteristics of syn oil vs conventional oil. AFAIK synthetic does not clean varnishes any better than dino and has no affect on seals. But if there is a slight oil leak the syn oil will sneak through better.

To me the advantage of synthetic is two fold, slightly better lubrication reduces frictional losses but this is only slight and not something your butt dyno can detect, and longer service life. However if you are changing oil on a calendar schedule (once a year perhaps) and not a mileage schedule (less than 5,000 miles) then the advantages of synthetic are not fully realized.

GothingNC

Would the Rottella Semi-Synthetic be OK?

Steve Weiner-Rennsport Systems

That stuff is just fine,...