john d 81SC

Are there any "tricks to the trade" to change the sparkplugs on the left side of a 3.0 L engine? It looks like all the various plastic pieces have to be removed. Anything else?

Thank you in advance!

theiceman

I didn't find anything particular difficult, but it can be a pain getting the plug actually out as when I unscrewed it it fell out of the socket ... I just used needle nose..

Droops83

I assume you mean the 3.0 engine in a 911SC . . . if so you will need to remove both of the hoses that go from the heater blower motor, one is plastic and the other flexy paper/wire kind (I guess thats what youd call it!) Both are easy to remove and that should give u enough room. Use a good spark plug socket with either the magnet or rubber on the inside so the plug doesnt slip out when u try and lift it out. Use a short 3/8 drive extension, I actually have one thats welded to a u-joint plug socket so that it doesn't come apart. On these old cars the plugs can sometimes be a bitch to crack loose and be a little hard to get out if the threads are dirty; it is wise to chase the threads before u put the plugs back in. But overall its a pretty simple operation, easier than say, getting the # 6 topside plug out of a 993! Good luck!

PS: Make sure when u get the plugs in and put the wires back on, you hear and feel them "click" into place. If not the car will misfire.

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Chris Andropoulos
Schneider Autohaus
Santa Barbara, CA

Peter Zimmermann

John D: Good post by Chris. I would like to add one suggestion, put a THIN coat of a high quality Lithium based grease on the first few threads nearest the plug tip. As you install the plug the grease will "follow" the threads toward the compression washer, which will make the plugs super-easy to remove 15K miles down the road. Whatever you do, DO NOT use silver anti-seize!
Pete

911 Rod

I found the plug socket that came with the factory tool kit is unbeatable.
Peter,
Why not anti-seize? I have seen it recommended here before with this application in mind.
Rod

Peter Zimmermann

Rod: The factory tool is good, the SnapOn socket with internal magnet is better. For production/shop work the magnetic insert can't be beat, but even that tool should be ground down slightly on its exterior in order to make plug replacement even easier.

My view on anti-seize: If you want to fight your plugs all the way out after they've been in the engine for their service life, go ahead and use it. If you want to break loose the compression washer and spin the plug out by hand (ie, zero effort) use a little dab of Lithium grease. My shop serviced many cars for a long period of years and miles, believe me, we had plenty of opportunities to know if we were using the correct product for the application. We maintained many cars for more than 150K miles, some for more than one owner. When that happens you discover very quickly what the best way to do certain jobs is, especially when you can compare "your" cars to first time in cars from other shops. We used to find first hand, when we did a first-time major maintenance on a particular car and the plugs fought the wrench the whole 19 mm, that when we finally got the first plug out we knew it would be loaded up with silver anti-seize. And it always was. A little grease allows new plugs to go in smooth, and it allows worn out plugs to come out smooth. And that makes life better!
Pete

theiceman

my dad always swore by powdered graphite on his plugs on his motorcyle which always had alluminum heads and were notorious for stripping. I followed in his footsteps and do the same. just a tiny sprinke on th threads... have spun every plug out by hand for many years....

ice