Any expert on battery/alternator issue? Please read
#17
When was the last time prior to this episode that you checked the level of the battery? How old is the battery? Exposed plates are a battery killer.
Fill the battery with distilled water at least a 1/2 inch over the plates. Charge the battery on a charger till it is fully charged. Let the battery sit for at least 6 hours and check the specific gravity in each cell. They should be all within .050 of each other somewhere around 1.22 or greater. Pull in the electrolyte into the tester and squeeze it backout a few times prior to testing to equalize the temperature of the tester and the electrolyte.
If no cells are too low, proceed to a load test provided by a good battery retailer who knows what they are doing, not just a battery seller.
Fill the battery with distilled water at least a 1/2 inch over the plates. Charge the battery on a charger till it is fully charged. Let the battery sit for at least 6 hours and check the specific gravity in each cell. They should be all within .050 of each other somewhere around 1.22 or greater. Pull in the electrolyte into the tester and squeeze it backout a few times prior to testing to equalize the temperature of the tester and the electrolyte.
If no cells are too low, proceed to a load test provided by a good battery retailer who knows what they are doing, not just a battery seller.
#18
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Burning Brakes
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The battery was very lowed on fluid. I added distill water already. On start, even though it's lowed of fluid but it start strong and all electrical were working on order. When engine is not running, windows roll normal, stereo system (2 amps, 2 subw work normal too. Headlight wasn't dim.
On the alternator and VR, I wanted to replace the VR but when I take it out, I suspect several things. 1- the VR still have some juice, so maybe something else is the real problem. I have to find that problem. 2- Then I saw that thin layer cracked and peeled (pics below). I am not sure if that layer peel can be the problem or if it's normal. If it's the problem, then replacing the VR will do nothing to it. If it's not, then replacing the VR will be good.
Look like a trip to the shop would be it.
Thanks.
On the alternator and VR, I wanted to replace the VR but when I take it out, I suspect several things. 1- the VR still have some juice, so maybe something else is the real problem. I have to find that problem. 2- Then I saw that thin layer cracked and peeled (pics below). I am not sure if that layer peel can be the problem or if it's normal. If it's the problem, then replacing the VR will do nothing to it. If it's not, then replacing the VR will be good.
Look like a trip to the shop would be it.
Thanks.
Last edited by rnln; 07-11-2006 at 10:27 PM.
#19
rnln,
Right. My slip rings had deep groves that had been worn in by the brushes. This is what caused me to have it rebuilt..
The new brushes are not likely to seat properly and, as the shop said, get broken. BTW, I paid about $45 for the regulator which I took to the rebuild shop who would have only charged me $15.
R & R is repair and replace.
Right. My slip rings had deep groves that had been worn in by the brushes. This is what caused me to have it rebuilt..
The new brushes are not likely to seat properly and, as the shop said, get broken. BTW, I paid about $45 for the regulator which I took to the rebuild shop who would have only charged me $15.
R & R is repair and replace.
#20
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Burning Brakes
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I paid $100, shop price. If I don't have the connection, it's would cost more. I have no idea how you get that price, as cheap as none-P car. Now I am worry of what you said on the other thread. I'll install them all in this weekends and cross my fingers hoping that I don't have to look for you after they come in.