How much valve noise is OK?
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I just completed my first valve adjustment on my '86 3.2 coupe. Overall everything went just fine and I was sure to put new gaskets, nuts etc. I went by the book as best as possible.
When I first checked the clearance, I couldn't get my feeler gauge in nearly every valve - suggesting that it was probably too tight. So, I loosened them up a bit when making the adjustment.
Now that I've taken it for a test drive it seems to run a little bit better (more punch) but I can hear the valve noise or "clicking" some. So, my question to all of you experts is... Is this normal? Or, did I loosen them up too much? Is this going to hurt anything? Again, it seems to run great.. Hmmmm.
Thanks,
Joel
When I first checked the clearance, I couldn't get my feeler gauge in nearly every valve - suggesting that it was probably too tight. So, I loosened them up a bit when making the adjustment.
Now that I've taken it for a test drive it seems to run a little bit better (more punch) but I can hear the valve noise or "clicking" some. So, my question to all of you experts is... Is this normal? Or, did I loosen them up too much? Is this going to hurt anything? Again, it seems to run great.. Hmmmm.
Thanks,
Joel
#2
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Joel,
As long as the adjustment is winthin specs, valve train noise is going to occur. If the adjustment is a .01 mm greater than spec...better than too tight. Excessive noise may indidcate that you were a little too generous. Hope this helps.
As long as the adjustment is winthin specs, valve train noise is going to occur. If the adjustment is a .01 mm greater than spec...better than too tight. Excessive noise may indidcate that you were a little too generous. Hope this helps.
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Joel: I've found, during training employees, that it can take between five and ten valve adjustments to really grasp how to use the gauge. First, be sure that you're using the correct shim stock! That said, it "sounds" like you're going to have to do the car again. You should have substantial "drag" against the gauge as you remove it from a properly adjusted rocker. After removal you must be able to re-insert the gauge, to verify that your adjustment isn't too tight. That's the tricky part, and until you know how to hold your elbow, wrist and hand it will be tricky. FYI: Loose rockers will beat the cam lobes until they're pitted, and then you have an expensive problem. Good luck with it!
Pete
Pete
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Pete,
Thanks a ton - sounds like it is a real art. Yes, I'm sure i used the right shim. I must abmit that there was only a light drag on the feeler gauge. Do you think I could at least wiat until the next oil change? After all, I put that 5/50 Syntec $5 a quart stuff in (12quarts at $5 is $60!... Yikes!).
Joel
Thanks a ton - sounds like it is a real art. Yes, I'm sure i used the right shim. I must abmit that there was only a light drag on the feeler gauge. Do you think I could at least wiat until the next oil change? After all, I put that 5/50 Syntec $5 a quart stuff in (12quarts at $5 is $60!... Yikes!).
Joel
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I appreciate the expense of the oil, however if you clean a drain pan really well, and just drain the engine, that will allow you to re-adjust the valves with minimal loss. I would not drive the car without doing the valves again.
Pete
Pete
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If you let the car sit overnight before the adjustment, then jack up one side pretty high and let is sit for at least one hour, you should not lose any oil at all on the high side when you remove the rocker covers. The drawback is that you can only do one side at a time.