'89 911 Targa
02-01-2003, 01:06 AM
#1
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'89 911 Targa
I have a couple of questions about my '89 911 Targa that I purchased today.
1. The car has never been lowered. I would like to drop it down about 2 inches or whatever is the recommended drop. I understand the shop that does the work will not be changing springs. Torsion bars are in this model. What do I need to watch out for or be careful of with this operation?
2. The weather stripping that runs vertical in back of the driver and passenger side windows to the removeable top has fadded gray. How can I get it back to a black color? Paint, black shoe polish? Any suggestions other than to replace?
I would appreciate your comments on the above questions. Thank you in advance.
Steve
1. The car has never been lowered. I would like to drop it down about 2 inches or whatever is the recommended drop. I understand the shop that does the work will not be changing springs. Torsion bars are in this model. What do I need to watch out for or be careful of with this operation?
2. The weather stripping that runs vertical in back of the driver and passenger side windows to the removeable top has fadded gray. How can I get it back to a black color? Paint, black shoe polish? Any suggestions other than to replace?
I would appreciate your comments on the above questions. Thank you in advance.
Steve
02-01-2003, 02:00 AM
#2
As long as the car still holds an alignment properly you can typically go as low 23.75"R / and 1/2" higher in the front (typical rake for a 911. Some guys have gone lower than that, but it's not easy to get it to align properly - some massaging may be needed. If you go really low it may be advisable to remove your front bump stops and cut them by 1/2, helps with travel. On stock tires / wheels you shouldn't have a problem with fender interference. However, going to 7" Fuchs in front can, and most likely give you a rub, esp. LF wheel. Don't forget to have a few extra $$$ for a corner balance too.
My only two suggestions is getting the fenders rolled before you do your lowering, to ensure no problems down the road, esp. if you upgrade wheels. It's a hell of a lot easier to work on the fenders BEFORE you lower. The other is buying some steering rack spacers before your lowering, you'll need them.
I know of a good metal worker in Ballard that can do the fender rolling for you, one of the best metalworkers in the area and reasonable on price too. He's done my fenders and repaired my headlights when the securing nuts became rusty and stripped.
Ted Atkins (206)713-1627 can help you out. Also if you ever need custom panels made, this is your guy. Check out the early Porsche there he's working on too.
If you haven't found a shop to do the lowering, I reccomend Tru - Line in Seattle, Byron will get your car set up perfect, and treat you like a King. (206)325-3340. Set me up w/ a great street alignment and lowering, click the links below. Car is @ 23.75" R 24.25"F
cheers,
rjp
My only two suggestions is getting the fenders rolled before you do your lowering, to ensure no problems down the road, esp. if you upgrade wheels. It's a hell of a lot easier to work on the fenders BEFORE you lower. The other is buying some steering rack spacers before your lowering, you'll need them.
I know of a good metal worker in Ballard that can do the fender rolling for you, one of the best metalworkers in the area and reasonable on price too. He's done my fenders and repaired my headlights when the securing nuts became rusty and stripped.
Ted Atkins (206)713-1627 can help you out. Also if you ever need custom panels made, this is your guy. Check out the early Porsche there he's working on too.
If you haven't found a shop to do the lowering, I reccomend Tru - Line in Seattle, Byron will get your car set up perfect, and treat you like a King. (206)325-3340. Set me up w/ a great street alignment and lowering, click the links below. Car is @ 23.75" R 24.25"F
cheers,
rjp
02-01-2003, 06:07 PM
#3
Lowering will require reindexing your torsion bars. At that time, it makes sense to replace your spring plate bushings. If shocks are original, it's a good time to replace those too. Heck, if you want it to handle like a slot car, consider changing to 22mm Torsion bars in the front and 29's in the back. Obviously, this can snowball quickly. You might want to step back, review all the possible options and decide how much you want to do. My advice is to do everything you think you'll want in one shot...keeps you from re-paying for the same labor over and over.
02-01-2003, 07:45 PM
#4
Steve:
I think I can help on item #2.
I use Lexol Vinylex to keep my vinyl and rubber in good condition. Also, 3M Rubber and Tire treatment works pretty well too. You can get these products from <a href="http://www.carcareonline.com" target="_blank">Car Care Online</a>.
Good Luck with that Targa!
Jay
90 964
I think I can help on item #2.
I use Lexol Vinylex to keep my vinyl and rubber in good condition. Also, 3M Rubber and Tire treatment works pretty well too. You can get these products from <a href="http://www.carcareonline.com" target="_blank">Car Care Online</a>.
Good Luck with that Targa!
Jay
90 964
02-02-2003, 03:41 AM
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Steve:
Congrats on the purchase! Loved my Targa too!
I second the comments above; concur with the Vinylex.
Changing out torsion bars can be expensive; be sure you want the ride you will be getting before you get the work done; for some people 29mm may feel a litttle too stiff for street driving but good for the autox/track; depends on what your intentions are. Recommend you do some autox events first and see how the stock setup works when lowered. Just my $0.02.
I rolled my front fenders for my new 7x16's on the CS after experiencing rubbing under heavy loading in a left turn; came out great, no rubbing now. Make sure you get a guy with plenty of experience; I have heard stories of cracked paint. If you want to avoid rolling, more front negative camber will help if you can handle the extra tire wear.
If you want to keep the top in good shape, avoid folding it up as much as possible; Vinylex is recommended for the top too. I discovered that the top can be slid behind the seats fairly easily with some practice, or you can just leave it at home, weather permitting.
Congrats on the purchase! Loved my Targa too!
I second the comments above; concur with the Vinylex.
Changing out torsion bars can be expensive; be sure you want the ride you will be getting before you get the work done; for some people 29mm may feel a litttle too stiff for street driving but good for the autox/track; depends on what your intentions are. Recommend you do some autox events first and see how the stock setup works when lowered. Just my $0.02.
I rolled my front fenders for my new 7x16's on the CS after experiencing rubbing under heavy loading in a left turn; came out great, no rubbing now. Make sure you get a guy with plenty of experience; I have heard stories of cracked paint. If you want to avoid rolling, more front negative camber will help if you can handle the extra tire wear.
If you want to keep the top in good shape, avoid folding it up as much as possible; Vinylex is recommended for the top too. I discovered that the top can be slid behind the seats fairly easily with some practice, or you can just leave it at home, weather permitting.
