afinepoint

I do not have the "special" tool VW 267 for separating the tie rod from the steering arm. Pelican said I didn't need it. Any tricks to separating? I'd rather not try hammering it out.

What are the options for lubicants for the threads other than anti-sieze? Can bearing grease or engine assembly lube - which has anti-sieze properties be used? Other than Walmart I can't make it to a parts store til Monday and I'd like to have it ready for alignment then.

This is for the 84 911.

Thanks,

Reg

theiceman

I wouldn't hammer it as you may bend something. I use a puller, some parts stores loan them out. If you have a compressor an impact hammer will do it in about 2 seconds. I always use anti seize but you can put it on afterwards unless you are trying to do the tie rod threads. You can always ask the alignment shop to throw some on for you. The nuts on the tie rod end can be added and removed without moving the alignment to add anti seize.

kinda tough without a autoparts store though ..

SeattlePorsche

Hi Reg,

I think I can offer some help. Don't try to do this with the pickle fork, IMO, because you can hammer away at it for a long time. Go to any autoparts store and see if they have a screw type tie rod end removal tool. I posted a picture of this a while back.

https://rennlist.com/forums/911-forum/263719-front-end-progress.html

Basically you just hook it up and in a few turns it easily separates. You won't need any anti seize or anything.

ps I posted a few other threads on how I did my turbo tie rods with pictures, so hopefully it will save you a little time. Unless you are real good, Monday might be pushing it a bit. Don't forget to buy some locktite for the screwing into the rack. Good luck!

Sincerely,

afinepoint

Using any lubricant changes the torque spec for a bolt. How is this to be accomplished? How in the world can I set the torque for the threaded end of the turbo tie rack - inner part at the boot? I bought the wrench for it but torquing will be by guess work.

Any part not lubricated? Large metal washer?

Reg

SeattlePorsche

The turbo tie rod should have come with big washer about 3-4mm thick. Just make it tight. The loctite will keep it in place. At least that's how p-mechanics do it.

Jay Laifman

I don't know if this trick will work here. But, on another car, I saw a guy take two hammers and simultaneously whack both sides of the part with the hole holding the tie rod. It just popped out.

afinepoint

I picked up an air hammer today. Using a pickle fork and adapter it "gently" separated the tie rod in about 15 seconds. However. . .

How do you get the rack end bushing out? There is a large flange that the boot is held onto with a spring and behind that a washer that obviously uses a spanner wrench. I bought the combination spanner/open end wrench from Pelican but there is no clearance at the stone shield to use it. I am not going to disassemble the underside of the car.

Should I be able to just unscrew the bushing or is more involved? What is that washer behind the bushing end for? The Bentley manual is of no help here. The busing end are soaking in PB blaster overnight.

Looks like the rubber boot is only held in place by the outer spring? James I didn't get the string trick.

VIR is next Thursday. I have rotors and pads standing by. I may have to live with the present tie rods if this gets any more involved or delayed.

Reg

theiceman

firstly get the spring off the boot, use a small screwdriver and pry the spring off the boot at both ends. one end you won't need outer , the inner one let go around the rack. You have the tie rod end off so let it drop away from the spindle and use the tie rod as leverage to unscrew it from the rack ( use the tie rod as the wrench ). I had my sway bar off to make it a little easier but it can be done. after you " crack it" it should come off fairly easily. when you take it off and measure i against the new tie rod you wll see you need the big spacer to make the lengths the same. .


good luck ..

afinepoint

Thanks Ice,

So what is the washer that sits beneath the outer boot end for? The one that needs the spanner wrench I needlessly bought from Pelican?

I needed to know how the bushing was attached and what come off and what stays. Again thanks for the information.

Reg

theiceman

I think you may be talking about the "nut" that locks the tie rod in , kind of like a jamb nut, you screw the tie rod in and use the lock nut to lock it in. i didn't buy the tool as I did it this way. Actually you can vary how far in you screw into the rack and use the lock nut to lock it down. if you notice by screwing it in and out of the tie rod it will change how far into the rack it goes, no matter means nothing now .
Now take tour old tie rod asssembly , lie it on a table and adjust your new one so it is the same length don't forget to include the spacer. the tricky part will be getting the spring over the new boot. I put a little silicon grease on the ridge where the boot sits, lifted the spring over the boot with a small flat balde and just turned the whole boot feeding a little more spring as i turned it, worked like a champ.

afinepoint

So do you have to unscrew this "nut" to back the tie rod bushing out?
Or "crack it"? What do you mean by "i didn't buy the tool as I did it this way"?
I don't want to be wrenching on the tie rod if I have to loosen that lock nut.

If the tie rod can be adjusted by this means is the large washer that comes with the turbo tie rods necessary?

The Haynes manual shows the boot being held at each end by springs. True? Looks like I will have to drop the stone shield.

Reg

theiceman

I am not even sure what you mean by bushing. Lets start again
1. disconnect the tie rod end from the hub asm.
2. remove inner and outer spring holding rubber boot.
3. let the tie rod drop and use it as a wrench turning couner clockwise.
4. Remove everything ,you should just have the end of the steering rack staring at you.
5. lie it on a table and put the new one next to it and adjust the new tie rod end so they are the same legnth including the spacer.
6. slide boot on tie rod and screw into rack, use large channel locks to tighten tie rod with locktite.
put boot back in place .

wait a minute a picture is worth a thousand words, i kept the old ones I'll dnap a pic.

Thi sis what you should have in your hand when you are done.

afinepoint

A picture is worth thousands . . . I just got the passenger side off. I have what is in your picture. What I was asking about was that brass piece on the bushing threads.

I figured the supplied washer replaces it. i.e. nothing in your picture goes back on the car. How do the turbo tie rods get away without a locking washer?

Heres one ice. The turbo rods came with their own boots but they are longer and tapered on one end. There is a rubber ring on the inner end of each rod that looks like accepts the narrow end of the new boot. Thus no spring clamp needed.

Both ends of the new tie rods are too big to fit through the boot's narrow end. I have to disassemble the rod then insert and screw it back together - inner end inside of the boot and outer end on the outside. After setting the length as long as I don't disturb the locking nut this should work. The old boots can't be reused since that set nut that holds a spring goes away. Correct?

Did you have any problems?

Sorry for all the questions. Got to get this right the first time.


Reg

theiceman

no problem with the questions, I've been there. You are right on with yor assumptions but let me think about the boot for a second..hmm.. I think i did the complete adjustment and stretched the boot over the inner end with a little silicone greas on it., but you have the idea. Reality is you will need a toe adjustment when you are done anyway, this will just get you close. The other stuff you are right on , you only reuse the inner spring..have fun getting it back on. I think you are well on your way now and will be fine. the only other thing I remember being a bit weird was when I torqued on the tie rod end castle nut , after i got the torque right the split pitn was above the nut, oh well. I think I have a pic of the completed project but I will have to remove it soon as I am running out of server space, let me know when you are done with the pics ..

afinepoint

Done with the pictures. Again thanks. Both old tie rods are out. What a bear. Head bolts are more forgiving.

Will do new tie rods, and start front rotors, pads and brake lines tomorrow.
Then on to the rear.

Reg