Actually Iceman didn't need to get an alignment because his toe was spot on! (but he's right, the rest of us do)

The bushing you refer to towards the outer end is used to seal the boot. As ice said, just pull it over the bushing. I also wondered why the outer end of the boot didn't come with some mini spring until I looked closely at the pictures.

Don't wrench on the tie rod shaft. You wrench on the big brass ring of the old tie rod. I think the tool you bought is to attach to the brass ring. I was told to use channel lock pliers and this worked (either the 12 inch or 16 inch one, I can't remember). You are supposed to remove the front belly pan, but my car didn't have one. The old tie rod is put in with loctite so you will need to use a lot of force. I got the driver side out by using the the tie rod and pointing it down and using it for leverage, but the passenger side was very difficult and I had to use the channel locks.

Once the old tie rod is out, definitely put the spacer on, use loctite, and use channel locks tighten. You can do it! Everyone on this forum told me they had been there before. Don't give up!

 

That locktite works. I thought I was going to damage the steering rack because of the force. I could not use the spanner wrench because of space. Although the rock shield was no problem the front bar resisted coming off so I cound never get the swing clearance.

Using the open end of one wrench to slip over the inner rod end I hooked another into that one's opposite end and twisted. Amazingly my knuckles are still here.

Will hit the store for locktite this morning and then onward with the front.

Reg

 

A couple of pointers for the front given your rack was so hard ( I assume due to age and some rusting) . 1.. As you have probably guessed you have to remove the brake lines to do the calipers. Patience is needed doing those brake lines. I had so much rust I used penetrating fluid for 4 days before hand, soaking the joints and using a tooth brush to work it in ( it was well worth it hower as when I was done the xonnections looked brand new ) . Make sure you use a line wrench for this ( not sure if I have the right term ). If you bust a hard line ( easy to do ) you are in for a lot of work , the small outer one not so much , the one on the inboard however ..... ouch .. so be carefull. Also consider repacking the front wheel bearings as the hub has to come of to do the rotor anyway I think and you may as well take care of business while you are in there.

ice

 

Your posts are a little hard to decipher, but it sounds like you succeeded in getting both old tie rods out. If so, congratulations.

There are different kinds of loctite. One is a "permanent" loctite and can't release unless heated, and you don't want to use a torch with the fuel pump and fuel tank right next to the rack (and with you under the car). I used the blue stuff in a red bottle.

By the way, what did you mean when "Using the open end of one wrench to slip over the inner rod end I hooked another into that one's opposite end and twisted."

Don't forget to measure the old tie rod and use that measurement to define the length of the new one. And don't forget to put on the large spacer and the new boot before you screw it in. The part of the new tie rod has some flat spots that you can grip with a channel lock. Then just make it tight. You can't use a torque wrench here.

Good luck Reg!

 

Hey James did you get your rear shocks done?

 

James,

Yes the old parts are out. I am using "blue" medium strength locktite.

The wrench business was just about leverage.

I agree I can't use a torque wrench especially since I can't fine a 32mm crow's foot and I intend to finish this job today. Using the 32mm spanner/open combination from Pelican I intend to make it tight. In the wrench's instruction they warn of overtightening the tie rod. What do they expect? If they were that concerned why give you a wrench and not a crows foot?

Reg

 

Ice,

You betcha baby!! I hope Reg doesn't mind me responding here, but I got the Bilstein Sports in the rear and it looks like your car now. But what a pain. Took me 2 days. And I drove it twice this weekend and it is sunny as hell here in Seattle and I am pumped!! On the left rear I had to remove the blower hose and the blower motor. On the right rear I had to disconnect the oil hose from the body and lift it up and out of the way. I had to use an allen wrench on the top of the shocks to keep them from spinning. I used a ratcheting closed head over the allen by feel (blind) to tighten it down.

The killer was that when I was done, I realized there are two rubber spacers at the top of the shock, and I was supposed to remove one and put it on top of the shock nut after the shock was inserted, but I didn't. So guess what... I had to do it all again.

The good news was that once you figure out how to do it, repeating it only took me about an hour for both. I can see how some could make a living at this...

OK Reg hates me now, so I will quietly wait for his tt-rod update.

 

Not at all.

Reg

 

Tie rod attached to rack and boots on. It took awhile to get the stabilizer bar back into place.

I read about the tough times some were/are having with the boot springs. Here's how I get rubber and such back in place in tight spots.

Coat one one of the surfaces with Armor All. The Armor All is slippery and the boot/hose/gage will pop on. Later the Armor All will be absorbed by the rubber as designed. Obviously care must be take to avoid contaminating systems supplied by a hose.

After the boot is in place work a section of the spring into the groove. Now rotate the boot a little and pop in more spring and repeat until done. This way the section of spring you are working on is always in view.

I am hesitant to do the brake lines because of possible damage and the nearness of DE. I think I'll take them to the track in case.

Here's a question I'll ask here and in a new post. Do rotors need the 200 - 300km break in period? Instructions with the front say so no such warning with the rear and nothing in the manual. They are Zimmermans. I've spoken with Performance regarding the pads. The tie rods are still not connected to the steering arm. I thought the extra swing would be handy for brake work.

If they do I may as well wait on everything except pads until after track time.

Reg

 

I am impressed with the speed in which you work! You did in a couple of days what took me more than a week.

I would suggest doing the brakes later. Then you can do it all without pressure of time.

Just to let you know, after I changed my front rotors and brake lines and pads and bled them, they worked very well right off the bat for street use.

 

Thanks for the compliment. I thought I've been taking too long.

I think I agree about the rotors and lines. Too little time. Rushing has its consequences. It would be a shame to endanger my track time or worse . . miss it. The tie rods were number one.

I had hope for the extra metal (heat sink) that the new rotors would bring.

I'll attach the tie rods to the steering arms tonight or tomorow morning. Get an alignment tomorrow and put pads on Tuesday.

Reg

 

wow were all on line at the same time .. weird ..

Anyway good luck withthe tie rods, that is exactly how I did my boot also .. i used silicon grease and just turned the boot using a small screwdriver to ease over the spring.. i got the idea from watching a tire machine put a tire on a rim..

 

Here one: Why isn't the tie rod to steering arm interface lubricated? You know the surfaces where the tie rod is pressed into the steering arm.

Reg

 

uh oh......

I think you meant one under the body with the shock and one on the shaft after it has gone through the body right ... ? hmmm.... I think I need to have a mosey on out to the garage .....no particular reason ....... BYE>>>>

 

Never mind it dawned on me. The whole outer end of the tie rod is a ball joint. It wobbles and rotates allowing the wheels to turn and the rack to move. I must be really tired.

Time for bed.

Reg