CV boots
04-14-2003 | 11:18 PM
#1
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 135
Likes: 0
From: Huntington Beach, CA
CV boots
hey guys,
I was under my car today and happened to notice my driver side inner CV boot is detached on the big side. I havent done these before so is there anything I should know before doing this. I couldn't find a write-up on here or Pelican for a how-to. Any hints and tips would be greatly appreciated. Thanks,
I was under my car today and happened to notice my driver side inner CV boot is detached on the big side. I havent done these before so is there anything I should know before doing this. I couldn't find a write-up on here or Pelican for a how-to. Any hints and tips would be greatly appreciated. Thanks,
04-15-2003 | 10:18 AM
#3
Instructor
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 108
Likes: 0
From:
Well I would go ahead and buy the cv rebuild kit. This includes boots (2), clamps(2) and grease(2 packs). BUT, If you get the axle off and see that there is a lot of road grime in the opened area I would just get a new axle or rebuilt one.
(rebuild)I just did this about 2 months ago and it wasn't too bad of a job. The worst part was having to press the race away from the stub...I had to drive to a friends house in the middle of the job to do this. Anyway...another hint...use duct tape to tape around the races to keep the ball bearings in place. Make sure you flush out the old grease by pumping it out and whatever you do DONT use wd-40 or a derivative thereof to clean them...just pump it out by pushing the actual articulating part back and forth. It helps to have a vise to hold the axle to do that part. I thiink the kit is around $20, and a rebuilt axle thru Vertexauto.com is $180 + core.
Hope this helps,
--Brian
(rebuild)I just did this about 2 months ago and it wasn't too bad of a job. The worst part was having to press the race away from the stub...I had to drive to a friends house in the middle of the job to do this. Anyway...another hint...use duct tape to tape around the races to keep the ball bearings in place. Make sure you flush out the old grease by pumping it out and whatever you do DONT use wd-40 or a derivative thereof to clean them...just pump it out by pushing the actual articulating part back and forth. It helps to have a vise to hold the axle to do that part. I thiink the kit is around $20, and a rebuilt axle thru Vertexauto.com is $180 + core.
Hope this helps,
--Brian
04-15-2003 | 03:38 PM
#4
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 135
Likes: 0
From: Huntington Beach, CA
thanks guys for the replies so far,
the boot is just torn and I will be replacinf that. From the inspection so far, the joint itself looks to be in good shape so I hopefully(knocking on wood) will get away without having to replce the joints and axle. thanks again.
the boot is just torn and I will be replacinf that. From the inspection so far, the joint itself looks to be in good shape so I hopefully(knocking on wood) will get away without having to replce the joints and axle. thanks again.
04-15-2003 | 05:58 PM
#5
Rennlist Member
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 802
Likes: 1
From: San Ramon
Mike,
I replaced 3 of the 4 CV boots on my 79SC a couple of weeks ago and this is a doable project. Over the course of 144,000 miles, the boots either departed company with the car a long time ago, or they were on the next train.
I'm still on a steep learning curve, but if you are patient and methodical, this isn't too tough. Mostly be sure to have lots of paper towels because grease is going to be your best friend for a while.
Here's a link from the Pelican Part page that served as a useful step-by-step process for my rebuild.
<a href="http://forums.pelicanparts.com/showthread.php?s=&threadid=73003" target="_blank">http://forums.pelicanparts.com/showthread.php?s=&threadid=73003</a>
This is from a VW site, but the concepts are the same and the parts are virtually identical. Replacement boots and grease are available thru many outlets; I used Engine Builders in Reno NV.
While I agree you'll want to keep the joints together (after much reading, you can indeed disassemble and reassemble, but I wasn't at all certain I could handle this), doing a good visual inspection to look for pitting, blueing or scoring of the joint is important. Better to learn now of the need to replace the joint while its out of the car, than to put back together only to later hear the awful clunking noise!
For this inspection, I cleaned my joints with Simple Green and then rinsed with warm soapy water. Its then recommended to immediately dry the joint using an air compressor. Fortunately, mine were still in pretty good shape. Pretty amazing piece of engineering, these joints, for what they have to accomplish and the torque that goes thru them.
Repack 'em with lots of grease, install the boots on the half shalfs and you're good to return to the car. The tricky part about reinstalling the half shalfs is getting the bolts to align again with wheels. This is mostly a blind operation, so for me, this was accomplished by touch to get the bolts to align properly. The tranny side is easier because you have direct line of sight to the bolt holes.
I then tightened to 35 pounds on the torque wrench. Since you can't access all 6 bolts at once, I had my son work the emergency break while I rotated the wheel to expose the next set of bolts.
That's pretty much it...had a beer and felt good about wrenching on my own car and saving about $700.
Joe
79SC Coupe
I replaced 3 of the 4 CV boots on my 79SC a couple of weeks ago and this is a doable project. Over the course of 144,000 miles, the boots either departed company with the car a long time ago, or they were on the next train.
I'm still on a steep learning curve, but if you are patient and methodical, this isn't too tough. Mostly be sure to have lots of paper towels because grease is going to be your best friend for a while.
Here's a link from the Pelican Part page that served as a useful step-by-step process for my rebuild.
<a href="http://forums.pelicanparts.com/showthread.php?s=&threadid=73003" target="_blank">http://forums.pelicanparts.com/showthread.php?s=&threadid=73003</a>
This is from a VW site, but the concepts are the same and the parts are virtually identical. Replacement boots and grease are available thru many outlets; I used Engine Builders in Reno NV.
While I agree you'll want to keep the joints together (after much reading, you can indeed disassemble and reassemble, but I wasn't at all certain I could handle this), doing a good visual inspection to look for pitting, blueing or scoring of the joint is important. Better to learn now of the need to replace the joint while its out of the car, than to put back together only to later hear the awful clunking noise!
For this inspection, I cleaned my joints with Simple Green and then rinsed with warm soapy water. Its then recommended to immediately dry the joint using an air compressor. Fortunately, mine were still in pretty good shape. Pretty amazing piece of engineering, these joints, for what they have to accomplish and the torque that goes thru them.
Repack 'em with lots of grease, install the boots on the half shalfs and you're good to return to the car. The tricky part about reinstalling the half shalfs is getting the bolts to align again with wheels. This is mostly a blind operation, so for me, this was accomplished by touch to get the bolts to align properly. The tranny side is easier because you have direct line of sight to the bolt holes.
I then tightened to 35 pounds on the torque wrench. Since you can't access all 6 bolts at once, I had my son work the emergency break while I rotated the wheel to expose the next set of bolts.
That's pretty much it...had a beer and felt good about wrenching on my own car and saving about $700.
Joe
79SC Coupe
04-15-2003 | 08:50 PM
#6
Instructor
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 148
Likes: 0
From: Newport Beach, CA
If you replace the boot on one side you might as well do the other side. The effort to R&R the second boot and repack/inspect the second CV is minimumal. I replaced one on each side only to have to take the whole thing apart and replace the other two not so long after. Be sure to use new gaskets and new washers. The bolts can be reused but washers are a one time deal. If you don't use new washers the possiblity of the bolts backing out and later shearing off are pretty good.