Rear Caliper/Brake Disk Removal
04-05-2006, 05:14 AM
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Rear Caliper/Brake Disk Removal
Hi,
Tried searching for this topic, but kept getting a blank results page so I figured I'd post the question instead.
How do I get to the bolts for the rear calipers? I'm about to replace the rear brake disks and seem to remember that the allen bolts are awefully close to the trailing arms. I'm assuming I have to remove the calipers to get the disks off, which I think is usualy the norm. Do I have to cut an allen wrench to fit? (will that even fit?)
Any help is appreciated!
-anders
Tried searching for this topic, but kept getting a blank results page so I figured I'd post the question instead.
How do I get to the bolts for the rear calipers? I'm about to replace the rear brake disks and seem to remember that the allen bolts are awefully close to the trailing arms. I'm assuming I have to remove the calipers to get the disks off, which I think is usualy the norm. Do I have to cut an allen wrench to fit? (will that even fit?)
Any help is appreciated!
-anders
04-05-2006, 07:19 AM
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Anders.
What year is your car? You do have to remove the caliper. Then there are two philip head screws on the front of the rotor, remove those and the rotor should come off. You may need to back off the ebrake to help get it off.
What year is your car? You do have to remove the caliper. Then there are two philip head screws on the front of the rotor, remove those and the rotor should come off. You may need to back off the ebrake to help get it off.
04-05-2006, 07:25 AM
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Driver8 - Sorry, should have mentioned year and model 
Its a 81 911 SC. Thanks for the quick reply.
Would be great if I didn't have to remove the caliper and the brake line! Will give it a try this weekend.
Thanks again,
-anders
Its a 81 911 SC. Thanks for the quick reply.Would be great if I didn't have to remove the caliper and the brake line! Will give it a try this weekend.
Thanks again,
-anders
04-05-2006, 04:35 PM
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motom
It's tough.
No allen wrenches necessary.
There are two (2) 17mm bolts (see the picture above).
You take out the top bolt. This is easy to access.
But with the SC (different on the Carrera), the brake line is in the way. You have to remove (10mm or 11mm open end wrench) brake line to get to the bottom bolt.
Sometimes you will find that even then it's not enough room to get to the bottom bolt.
What I do is:
1. Remove the top bolt
2. Take a piece of wood and a hammer (or a rubber mallet) and smack the caliper to move it away from the disk.
The bottom bolt is still in place, so the caliper will rotate a little around the bottom bolt.
You need to do this just a little so that you can get a ratcheting open end wrench in there to get to the bolt and loosen it.
The Carrera rear calipers have the brake line connecting to the caliper in a different place, so it's not an issue.
Good luck,
TonyG
It's tough.
No allen wrenches necessary.
There are two (2) 17mm bolts (see the picture above).
You take out the top bolt. This is easy to access.
But with the SC (different on the Carrera), the brake line is in the way. You have to remove (10mm or 11mm open end wrench) brake line to get to the bottom bolt.
Sometimes you will find that even then it's not enough room to get to the bottom bolt.
What I do is:
1. Remove the top bolt
2. Take a piece of wood and a hammer (or a rubber mallet) and smack the caliper to move it away from the disk.
The bottom bolt is still in place, so the caliper will rotate a little around the bottom bolt.
You need to do this just a little so that you can get a ratcheting open end wrench in there to get to the bolt and loosen it.
The Carrera rear calipers have the brake line connecting to the caliper in a different place, so it's not an issue.
Good luck,
TonyG
04-10-2006, 10:41 AM
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Wow, glad I'm not the only one who thinks that lower rear caliper bolt is a PITA.
I replaced my RR rotor this weekend. I followed the procedure in "101 Projects for you 911" or whatever. A couple of notes:
I didn't need to disconnect the brake line to get the lower bolt. I first removed the clip that holds the brake line to the suspension to allow some movement of the caliper w/o bending the hard line.
I used a LARGE OFFSET box wrench. It just barely makes it in back there. The spring plate and oil lines are a little bit in the way of the end of the wrench, but it's very doable. Would be nice to have one that was 1" shorter. Here it is:
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=32042
I did take off the upper bolt first, but I didn't rotate the rotor before removing the lower bolt.
After the caliper was removed I just hung it on a coat hanger out of the way.
The bolts are 19 mm on my 82 911.
If anyone one knows where to get a LARGE OFFSET 19 mm RATCHETING box wrench, I'd be interested in picking one up for the next time this job comes along.
Cheers,
Jeff
I replaced my RR rotor this weekend. I followed the procedure in "101 Projects for you 911" or whatever. A couple of notes:
I didn't need to disconnect the brake line to get the lower bolt. I first removed the clip that holds the brake line to the suspension to allow some movement of the caliper w/o bending the hard line.
I used a LARGE OFFSET box wrench. It just barely makes it in back there. The spring plate and oil lines are a little bit in the way of the end of the wrench, but it's very doable. Would be nice to have one that was 1" shorter. Here it is:
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=32042
I did take off the upper bolt first, but I didn't rotate the rotor before removing the lower bolt.
After the caliper was removed I just hung it on a coat hanger out of the way.
The bolts are 19 mm on my 82 911.
If anyone one knows where to get a LARGE OFFSET 19 mm RATCHETING box wrench, I'd be interested in picking one up for the next time this job comes along.
Cheers,
Jeff
04-10-2006, 11:02 AM
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I finished replacing the rotors this weekend and everting went pretty smooth, except that I didn't have my 101 Projects book handy so I didn't know that I had to remove the front hubs to replace the rotors. Tried searching this forum on my Mobile PC but with all the frames the screen is just too small to read through all the posts. Ran home (my garage is 10min walk from my house) and got on my PC just to find out that I had to remove the cap to get to the bolt that holds the hub in place.
Also had to stop by my local auto store to pick up some off-set wrenches, and like jaydubya, the ones I found had too small of an offset. I did manage to get them off anyways so the rears were not as bad as I had feared.
I didn't clean out the front bearings totally, I just cleaned off the outer grease and then repacked them before I reassembled. I tightened them to about the same location as before and hope that is about right. Wish I had some torque specs when I did it, but I think I thightened them enough.
Overall the job wasn't that bad, but it sure is a little bit more work than most modern cars.
Oh, the rear bolts on a 81 911SC are 19mm, and the allen wrench for the front hubs is 6mm.
-anders
Also had to stop by my local auto store to pick up some off-set wrenches, and like jaydubya, the ones I found had too small of an offset. I did manage to get them off anyways so the rears were not as bad as I had feared.
I didn't clean out the front bearings totally, I just cleaned off the outer grease and then repacked them before I reassembled. I tightened them to about the same location as before and hope that is about right. Wish I had some torque specs when I did it, but I think I thightened them enough.
Overall the job wasn't that bad, but it sure is a little bit more work than most modern cars.
Oh, the rear bolts on a 81 911SC are 19mm, and the allen wrench for the front hubs is 6mm.
-anders
04-10-2006, 01:34 PM
#7
Team Owner
Anders
There are no "torque specs" for wheel bearings as far as I know . Too bad you didn't see my thread on replacing wheel bearings as I just did it all. but after packing your front wheel bearings you want to tighten the collar so you can just move around the washer behind it with the tip of a screwdriver ( without twisting the screwdriver for leverage). That is what I did with mine and I have no " rock " to the wheel when I tip it top to bottom but the wheel spins fine . I am going to recheck at next oil change after grease has ahad a chance to settle.
There are no "torque specs" for wheel bearings as far as I know . Too bad you didn't see my thread on replacing wheel bearings as I just did it all. but after packing your front wheel bearings you want to tighten the collar so you can just move around the washer behind it with the tip of a screwdriver ( without twisting the screwdriver for leverage). That is what I did with mine and I have no " rock " to the wheel when I tip it top to bottom but the wheel spins fine . I am going to recheck at next oil change after grease has ahad a chance to settle.
