Barry A. Waters

Folks,

Help! Did a search and found a 2002 post with the same issue but no clear answer so (forgive me) here I go...

My 911 appears to have been lowered some but not excessively. I use P205/60R15 Goodyear HPs on 7in Fuchs on the front and the car is autocrossed with no problems on non-rolled fender lips. Close but adequate clearance throughout its suspension/steering travel range.

I DO have bumpsteer so in going to Turbo Tie-Rods I went with a Bumpsteer Kit as well. The problem is getting adequate clearance for the steering rack spacers.

I LOOSENED the pinch-bolt on the lower steering u-joint but the upward movement of the steering shaft (and the shaft DID move through the body C-clamp below) seems to exceed the adjustment that's possible for the lower shaft/clamp interface.

The upper portion of the shaft's splined area is provided with an 'elongated notch' that provides 'up/down' adjustment leeway for its entrance into the lower u-joint. The notch allows the pinch-bolt to be inserted and the shaft to slide up or down past it. Without the 'notch' the pinch-bolt could not be inserted/removed because it would interfere with the normal OD of the shaft.

After removing the steering rack spacers, REMOVING the pinch-bolt entirely and re-inserting the spacers, the shaft happily slides way too far into the lower u-joint, passing the lower-most portion of the 'notch' which makes insertion of the pinch-bolt impossible. It's in so far the top of the shaft actually interferes with the u-joint itself!

Being a smarty pants I think 'Hey, the upper u-joint/other interfaces upstream of the lower u-joint are out of adjustment'. The only problem I have is that the several parts diagrams I have show the 'elongated notch' on the lower shaft very clearly. They also so, with equal clarity, that the upstream shafts have a notch ONLY the diameter of the pinch-bolt to be fitted - I.E. no u/down (in/out?) adjustment possible!

I got it all together (un-huh, you betcha!) but I'm concerned I've got something in the linkage VERY, VERY stressed! If I could REMOVE the pinch-bolt on the lower u-joint at this point (no-way) I'm sure the lower shaft would once again slide itself way too far into the lower u-joint.

Steering feels smooth from lock to lock but I'm not sure I want to take it down off the jacks like this and drive it around. Racks are EXPENSIVE (just ask some Hollywood Starlets!). ;-)

I've got this sick feeling that the way it was before I took it apart was that with the steering rack in it's normal position (sans spacers) it still had the lower steering shaft at its upmost position in the lower u-joint as in NO MORE ADJUSTMENT LEFT PAL! Help? HELP???

Barry

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Barry A. Waters

Ok. I chickened out and removed the bumpsteer kit. The spacers are 3/8in thick. With the original setup restored the lower steering shaft and lower u-joint come firmly to rest at the lower most portion on the 'elongated notch'. Just enough leeway to insert/remove the pinch-bolt without difficulty - no more :-(

Why would this be? To my knowledge the car's not been in any mishap that could cause that. I see no more adjustment points through the steering column.

Any thoughts?

Barry

Steve Weiner-Rennsport Systems

Barry:

Call me,...

Barry A. Waters

Steve,

I'm BACK! Thank you SO much for your offer to talk! I've been busy on a new career position AND hanging out with the Panoz Road Racing School folks at Road Atlanta. Got the 3-Day RR school under my belt in March, a Lapping day in April and am going up next week for another Lapping day.

I've been studying Fred Puhn's book (HP Books - How To Make Your Car Handle) on the dynamics of my 'Bump Steer' issue so I should be able to discuss things intelligently when we talk. I'll contact you off-forum about the best time to call. I just wanted to post this to let folks know the thread is not dead and that I'll definitely post the final resolution.

Thanks for the call offer and I'll get off my butt now and take you up on it!

Barry

rnln

Barry,
If for some reasons Steve don't have the time to type up here. Could Barry post result of the talk/installation afterward? I, I believe many others, want to know too.
Thanks.

psychoideas

Hello all,

I'm sorry but I don't have the answer but I thought I'd tell you about my steering conversion.
I imported a 1976 911S from the USA several years ago and had to change the steering to the right hand side.
When I disassembled it my steering column was made up of: the steering wheel end that has a spline on it. An intermediate shaft that runs to the steering rack. and the pinion part of the rack that also has a spline on it.

Now, the intermediate shaft that came with the car had a uni on both ends. That is, the shaft itself was split at each end and these split pieces formed part of the uni joint. So the shaft and the uni joints at each end where one piece. Because you are in the US I assume that is the set up that you have??

Well when you do a left to right conversion you can’t use the intermediate shaft that was used in left hand drive cars.

I had to buy a right hand drive intermediate shaft that was splined on both ends, and have the notch that the pinion and the steering wheel end have.

I also needed two individual uni joints. These joints and shaft for RHD cars I got from Porsche Australia.

OK, the point I’m getting at is that I have four place’s that I can absorb slack for the installation of bump steer spacers. I can undo pinch bolts at each end of both uni joints.

If you have the set up I described maybe there is a similar set up to what I have for LHD cars.

Cheers,

Frank

By the way, the ‘notches’ at each end of my intermediate shaft are 3 degrees different to LHD cars. LHD ones will fit in RHD cars but the steering goes “Clunk” once every rotation of the steering wheel.

Dave Thomas

There's also a U-clamp that secures the rack to the body. It's right next to the lower U-joint, secured with two Allen-head bolts. You can loosen that and let the whole rack find it's correct position.