pjc

The other place that can leak is the breather tube from the top of the case to the tank - the rubber hardens with age and heat and although there is no pressure at this point oil leaks out over the top of the casing and trickles down between the barrels. It's located behind the air filter so is difficult to reach.

PJC

redidrum

Pete,

I've almost given up on finding my oil leak at the passenger's side coming down the front of the engine case from somewhere. Not leaking at the valve covers. Had the cat off and room to look last weekend. Just couldn't see where it was coming from... Just getting used to a few drops and a drip pan on the garage floor. Sorry to hijack this thread... it's all about me, me ,me! Hope this helps others too.

Any ideas?

Thanks,

Ron

My87Targa

i have a bit of oil that leaks from my right head and i have the same line of oil that runs down my car but i very rarely see anything on the ground unless it sits for a couple days. my car runs fine, burns the normal amout of oil and doesnt blow smoke at all from what im told. i drive the car normal, and i also run the crap out of it. no big problems so far, knock on wood. i also have 210k on it.

redidrum

Don't drive mine much. Only about 1500 miles a year. Take it out for runs on sundays. Should drive it more and my leak may stop.

Slotcar

Pete, how can you replace these items with the engine in the car? It looks so incredibly tight, do you basically have to remove MAF, AC Condensor, heater hose, etc...Is it easier to drop the engine for these repairs?

Peter Zimmermann

Slot: Rocker arm shaft reseals are just a step past a valve adjustment, but rocker shafts usually just don't start leaking. They usually leak following top end/rebuild work, where the shaft bores in the cam housing were scratched/damaged by careless removal. Cam o-rings do require re-timing the cams, but once the A/C platform & compressor are removed, along with the rear sheet metal and muffler, there is quite a bit of room to work. Granted, I'm speaking from experience, once you've done a few hundred reseals it gets easier! Ron's leak, on the right side, might be the cam housing plug hidden by the engine oil cooler, or it could be the cooler seals. I don't think that it's the thermostat o-ring or oil pressure switch because he doesn't report leakage onto the three into one collector that's part of the right side heat exchanger. Cooler leaks are RARE, I don't think that I've seen ten bad coolers over my entire career, but it's possible. On an SC it's best to remove the engine to do cooler, switch or thermostat o-ring work. Some advocate partial drops, I don't - for me it's easier to take it out.
Pete

hanzonn

Pete (or anyone else),

I've identified an oil leak in the area of the oil thermostat/oil pressure switch. Is it possible to replace them without removing the engine? If so, what needs to be removed? FI unit? Or, do you have to get in there "blindly"?

Thanks, Greg

Peter Zimmermann

Greg: What year is your car?
Pete

hanzonn

'89 3.2 (bought it based on your book!)

Thanks, Greg

theiceman

Greg

How did you identify this as the source ? I don't know how you can see ANYTHINg in there..

Peter Zimmermann

Greg (and ice): This job is much easier to do on a Carrera than an SC! On the 3.2 car you can remove the air filter and housing, along with the air flow meter. That will allow you to see what you're doing. Ice, you're right, on your car a partial drop, at the very least, should be done to access the switch and thermo o-ring. I had a mechanic with true magic hands - he tried a thermostat o-ring on an '80s SC with the engine up. When the bleeding stopped he said, "Never again!" If you have the right socket you can do a switch by removing the rubber intake air dome, but even that is no fun. I take the engine out to do the job - for me it's easier.
Pete

theiceman

Well I guess THAT job is waiting... Once I in fact identify all the leaks Iiwll consider it..

hanzonn

Pete (and Ice),

Thanks for the info. I'll order the parts and plan on doing the job.

In my car, with a good flashlight, I can actually see the thermostat cover and the oil pressure switch between the plumbing, FI system, and airbox, etc. It's definitely wet around the whole area. I guess the 3.2 is less crowded in there than the SC. Of course, I don't have the hockey stick option either!

Greg

theiceman

hey hey now ..... don't be knockin' the stick....

dsmith

i've driven my 83sc 3k miles since purchase. i decided i would start at 130k with the 15k maintenance, cleaning, and 1/2 trans gear rebuild.

i dropped the motor last week, did the 15k (valves, plugs, cap/rotor, ff, af) and replaced the breather hose and cover gasket, other oil hoses, press switch, tstat oring, vacuum lines, oil cooler seals, intake runner hoses and intake gaskets. also installed turbo tie rods and rack spacers/aligned.

no way will i try any of this with the engine in the car in the future. i even had a 5th gear washer in the wrong place, had to drop the engine/trans again, open up trans/fix/reinstall (1/2 day).

took me 3hrs to remove first time and 1.5hrs second time. without a/c and cruise i would say under an hour. it's only 4 bolts and 12 axle bolts.

i spent 1 day cleaning crud, and at least 3-4 hours cleaning gasket surfaces, which would be very difficult in the car.

from now on, i plan to drop the engine/trans every 15k for maintenance. next time will be tensioners and clutch.

don't be afraid, it's only nuts and bolts!
david