Notices
911 Forum 1964-1989
Sponsored by:
Sponsored by: Intercity Lines, LLC

Proper Breaking Procedure

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 03-08-2006 | 01:44 AM
  #1  
BlazinBWF's Avatar
BlazinBWF
Thread Starter
Intermediate
 
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 31
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
From: Seattle
Default Proper Breaking Procedure

I have been driving a 1979 911SC for a while now and seem to be locking the disc breaks quite a bit under heavy breaking or when its wet out. Does anyone know the proper way to break one of these cars? These 911s do no stop like normal cars with no abs. The majority of the weight is in the back so the discs in the front lock very easily. I have tried stabing at the breaks which is not very smooth but it transferes some of the weight to the front but I can still lock on some occations, and limo breaking and under heavy breaking none of these things really work well.
Let me know what you guys think is the best way to stop this car quickly. Thanks
Old 03-08-2006 | 03:51 AM
  #2  
Steve Weiner-Rennsport Systems's Avatar
Steve Weiner-Rennsport Systems
RL Technical Advisor
 
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 11,871
Likes: 0
Received 65 Likes on 49 Posts
From: Portland Oregon
Default

Hi:

As you wisely pointed out, these cars are a little different from others and do require some degree of adaptation to the unusual weight distribution and suspension geometry changes,....

Porsche factory brake bias is purposefully set towards the front to help ensure that the rear brakes cannot lock before the fronts and inadvertently spin the car for you.

When people make complaints such as yours, the very first thing I look at is the brake pads your car currently has since that makes a HUGE difference in brake feel, lockup threshold, and durability.

Take a look and see what brand and compound brake pads you have,..
Old 03-08-2006 | 04:00 AM
  #3  
pcar964's Avatar
pcar964
Addict
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
 
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 5,225
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default

You shouldn't be locking your wheels up in normal street driving, unless you're trying to. My guess is that either one of the calipers is seized (making the other one do all the work), or maybe you need to bleed your brakes? How are your pads, and what kind are they?

Yeah 911s are different under heavy braking, but with normal street driving, there isn't any trick, just use them normally!
Old 03-08-2006 | 12:24 PM
  #4  
911Dave's Avatar
911Dave
Rennlist Member
 
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 2,218
Received 8 Likes on 7 Posts
From: Colorado
Default

b-r-a-k-e.
Old 03-08-2006 | 12:57 PM
  #5  
Peter Zimmermann's Avatar
Peter Zimmermann
Rennlist Member
 
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 20,607
Received 15 Likes on 13 Posts
From: Bakersfield, CA, for now...
Default

One more thing, and, yes, I've personally experienced the problem on more than one car. Lousy, or worn, tires. Without anything wrong with your brakes, they can lock up certain tires. I know of a car that had 75% worn, non-performance type Bridgestones on it. The car would even lock occasionally on dry pavement. A new set of Bridgestone RE 750s were installed, now you can stand that car on its nose, even in bad weather! Of course, that car was mechanically sound and its Bilstein shocks were in good condition. Make sure that your tire pressures are correct (29F/34R cold), then evaluate remaining tread life.
Pete
Old 03-08-2006 | 01:51 PM
  #6  
My87Targa's Avatar
My87Targa
Racer
 
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 489
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
From: Maryland
Default

Originally Posted by Peter Zimmermann
One more thing, and, yes, I've personally experienced the problem on more than one car. Lousy, or worn, tires. Without anything wrong with your brakes, they can lock up certain tires. I know of a car that had 75% worn, non-performance type Bridgestones on it. The car would even lock occasionally on dry pavement. A new set of Bridgestone RE 750s were installed, now you can stand that car on its nose, even in bad weather! Of course, that car was mechanically sound and its Bilstein shocks were in good condition. Make sure that your tire pressures are correct (29F/34R cold), then evaluate remaining tread life.
Pete

i was about to say the same thing, check your tires too. i know with good pads and good tires i can lay on my brakes pretty hard in the wet with out locking them up and just about slam on them in the dry no problem. it just takes time to get used to the car and how it likes to act under brakeing
Old 03-08-2006 | 02:16 PM
  #7  
84_Carrera's Avatar
84_Carrera
Legacy Flounder
Rennlist Member
 
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 3,439
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
From: Cumberland, RI
Default

I definitely agree with Pete on this one, my 84's got decent pads (installed last summer along with fluid flush & new hoses), everything seems to be good all around, but the no-traction Nitto 450's on the 16" C2 wheels are lock-happy. The Kumho MX's on the 17" Cup's are fine.

Check the rubber too, not just the brakes.



Quick Reply: Proper Breaking Procedure



All times are GMT -3. The time now is 06:31 PM.