Braam

I want to convert an early 911 to a 1973 911 RS Replica. (Sorry cannot afford the real deal) Does anybody know which is the best platform to use? I was thinking of a pre '74 but engine will be limited....on the other hand a later '80s model will perhaps have problems with the panels/spoilers... Any suggestions?

Ron

stormmaster

I would use the latest year you can afford and change the front fenders and hood....3.0s are better than 2.7s in general....3.2s are better than 3.0s in general...or....get an early platform and swap out the engine and running gear....its all a matter of how much money you want to spend and how much work you want to do....there are some using 3.6s for the back date but there is much more work involved in getting them to look right....89 back are the easier years to work with....if you want an RS look....78-89 would be a wise choice as you would not have to add flares on the rear...you didnt mention if you are wanting this car for the street or track primarily....for the street i would use a later model if you plan on leaving in the creature comforts(heat/air/stereo)....if those arent important it is pretty much a toss up....they all weigh about the same once to start stripping the guts out of them...and a post 74 would be slightly lighter since you would be using glass front fenders most likely unless you can score some nice metal pre 74 units. If you use one of the more reputable sources for the flares/fenders/bumpers/deck lid/ you will not have too many issues with fit....just remember fiberglass will require work to make it fit....just the nature of the beast....but just look at Jack Olson's beauty....you can see what is possible....

Gary R.

If you want to keep costs reasonable and don't care about good A/C (of course aftermarket can be added) I would go with a 78-83 SC. The 3.0L is a great platform, the SC's are galvanized. usually very solid platforms, the 915 is a solid transmission and can easily be regeared/reinforced for track use. You WILL have to change out the hood, front fenders, bumpers but the SC flares are good for up to a 10" wheel in back as is (I run 18x10 CCW's with 275 Hoosiers on mine). Interior cost alone for a DIY is around $4000.00 with race seats/harnesses, RS Carpets and door panels, and a good roll bar (I like Safety Devices myself). A solid SC for around $13K and another $20K+ should do it!

ked

when seeking an old 911 to perform a track or special conversion, I've kept these "rules" in mind...
a) it will end up costing more to modify a car than to acquire a similar example where the previous owner has already taken a financial bath,
b) a solid, rust free body w/ a VIN plate attached is the most important component (all else are just mechanical subsystems),
c) focus on the specific "end state" you desire & define your plan from that goal (you will still waste $, but not as much as the "buy a car & decide what to do next" approach),
d) control your project like a professional; plan - budget - schedule.

btw, you can install any Porsche aircooled flat 6 in any 911 (though I haven't heard of a 3.6 / 3.8 in an early, swb version - would be pretty demanding to drive fast on a tight course, eh?). also, the factory began galvanizing some body parts in '71, improvements were made for '76 & by '81 the entire body was warrented against rust damage for 7 yrs, in '86, 10 yrs. & don't forget, anything made of steel can rust, eventually.

Braam

Thanks for the info... Do you know of any porsche part shops where I can score some front fenders to convert a post '74 model to an 1973 - 2.7 RS replica?
p.s. I live in Dubai, United Arab Emirates thus all needs to be shipped etc.

Ron

JackOlsen

An SC or Carrera both make a great starting platform. You can also find conversions up for sale, if you're patient.

Is rust a problem in Dubai? If not, it might makes sense to locate a rust-free early tub, and save yourself the problem of fitting used or fiberglass pieces. I got my 1972 tub for $3,500 a few years ago. It had no drivetrain, and I sold off the steel pieces and replaced them with (wider) fiberglass.

My car's fiberglass came from Rennspeed Motorsports in Duarte, California. Keep in mind that many of the fiberglass pieces you buy come from the same California manufacturer -- Getty Design (oddly, you won't find the best price at Getty). In my opinion, you really want to make a purchase decision -- especially in your case, being so far away from the retailers -- on how easily you'll be able to exchange a bad part, and who you (or your body guy) is familiar with, and comfortable working with.

Click here for a long BBS discussion about everything involved in the process.

One of the problems backdating used to present was that the leading edge of the front trunk was redesigned for the 1974-later cars, and the latch position was moved. This meant if you put an early long hood on, you had to either weld the front end of an early car onto it, or settle for the rubber tie-downs in front and no latch. As is often the case, when someone came up with a solution, you couldn't believe no one had thought of it before. TRE Motorsports now makes a fiberglass long hood with the latch re-positioned to mate to the later-style tub and receiver.

Doug&Julie

I think the general consensus is, if you're not looking for 100% originality, backdating an '80s car is the way to go here. I've often thought about it and still probaly will sometime in my life. I'm liking the idea of keeping older cars as original as possible...or at least modify them only in ways that allow them to be returned to original. Of course, who's to say in 15-20 years many people may feel the same way about the '80s cars. But I have a feeling more of them will be around for a while, if only because of the better galvanizing / rust proofing in those cars. So I don't think they'll ever be as rare as an early (pre '74) car. So hack away...